Permanent Rausch Creek thread

Our IFS skids are a little more complicated than our t-case or transmission skid, so don't let @The Hunter think it's going to be a walk in the park when he has no fucking clue how ours are designed. Still not terribly difficult, but it needs several almost 90* bends and should take advantage of the front crossmember like the stock skid does, so needs tube extensions or something similar to mount to that.

Skid row does a good job with theirs and is pretty cheap, I got mine for like $260 through Quadratech. You can see the supports and bends in these pics:




Relentless takes it a step further by adding a much needed gusset to the supports as well. They are pretty comparable at $289 for 3/16, and honestly if I were to buy a new one it would probably be a relentless 1/4".

 

I think you are over thinking it. It just needs some heat to prevent stresses from building up.

From artec industries:
"Place about 3/4" long stitch welds between the axle tube and the truss pieces taking care to not let axle tube heat up too much in one area. For best results, weld one stitch and move to a completely different part of the
axle for the next weld. This will allow the first area to cool. Take your time. If welded too hot, the axle may warp upon cooling. A welding blanket may help slow the cooling and reduce the chance of warpage.
STEP 7. Before welds cool too much, replace pieces 0 and 1 back on assembly and tack weld them to assembly.
Once all welds have sufficiently cooled, proceed to weld exterior of truss in a similar manner as in step 6. Re-
member to take your time and spread out your welds. It is not necessary for every seam to be completely welded.

STEP 8. To weld truss to cast section with best results, preheat casting evenly around where truss contacts to ap-
proximately 400 degrees. DO NOT HEAT UNTIL GLOWING RED AS THIS MAY DAMAGE THE CASTING.
Once preheated, weld truss to casting before it cools. For best results, use a needle scaler or peening hammer to
relieve the weld directly after welding. Post heat the area to approximately the same temp you used to preheat.
Wrap axle in a welding blanket to slow the cooling process, the cooling should be slow (18-24hrs.) and uniform.
(The idea behind this method is to relieve the stresses in the materials prior to welding, and ensure that the plate
steel does not cool quicker than the cast resulting in stress cracks.)"

 

It's not great Jeep, it's the pissed off wife. If it were his truck I'd go for it

 

From what I have read, if using MIG to do it, it is best to use stainless steel wire as it has the closest properties to cast. I definitely agree with pre and post heating, especially the cast section, as it is much thicker and cast draws heat away from the weld area very quickly.

 

Pre heat, weld, peen, post heat, wrap in blanket...Seems do able

 

I'll look into the wire

 

Definitely doable. Hardest part for me is the heating. My oxy acetylene outfit is buried in my one shed, out of oxygen, and both tanks are way out of test...lol

 

jim's got a propane torpedo I think that'll do it

 

MAPP gas would do fine I think...

 

You mean you can't put the entire axle in the grill this time @Sub-Zero?

 

Nope. You can sweat copper with it, but just not enough heat or volume of heat for an axle housing.

 

I'm ready to come hit up rausch creek

 

I am local to it. Let me know when you want to come up.
Toyota Takeover is end of July.

 

Saw y'all are going to windrock. Get ready to dish some money out there. I paid around $220 for a weekend trip lol. Great park tho and ready to go back.

 

Definitely might come

 

Hopefully there's a June trip too. Although I've got some work to do before going out again.

 

Bumper project?

 

I have acetylene.

 

Yup. Need to get reinforcement onto my skid, and finish the bumper.

 

That could work better