2nd Gen Tacoma DC ported enclosure dimensions

Hey there,

Looking to build a ported subwoofer enclosure for a Dayton RSS265HO which is a 10" sub. I am waiting on Parts Express to email the specifics on the proper box/port volume. I have searched for weeks on dimensions for boxes and found some for sealed but nothing for ported. I am aware that Mr. Marv does quality work, however, I don't have the funds and the enclosure would be the most expensive component in the system. Does anyone know of a link or have dimensions for such an enclosure?

thanks

 

I am still perplexed on the box design. A sealed box looks like it could be made in the garage. The Port, design is what throws me off, was hoping someone had pictures or dimensions of a ported box build that I could use for reference to get some clarity. Looked at some enclosures and If use 1/2" birch plywood for the back panel and 3/4" MDF for front and sides I would gain 1/4" mounting depth. The magnet on the speaker has a vent but Parts Express doesn't have a spec on the amount of airspace needed behind the magnet. I have only build square sealed boxes in the past. Trying to get more bass response than I have with the sealed 8's back there now. Strictly going for SQ and have read that the RSS265HO is an awesome SQ sub in a ported enclosure, while not so good sealed.

 

and thanks for the links

 

Its quite simple.... Its a sealed box, then use a hole saw with the diameter of choice 3 or 4 inch
Buy matching 3 or 4 inch flared port kit. Cut to the length of the vent length requirements for desired tuning. 12volt.com has some calculators you can use to figure that out.
https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-4-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-352

 

thanks, that makes sense. Should be able to run the port outside the box?

 

Yes, in our trucks external port is just about the only reasonable option unless you use a 3 inch or smaller

 

ok cool, now to find out the smallest diameter/size port, that can be used on a .7cuf enclosure without port noise. I see the larger the diameter/size of the port the longer the port has to be,

thanks for your help

 

yes, your stuck to a 3 or a 4 inch. I wouldn't do anything less for a 10. Maybe try tune a little higher.... 37hz

 

Surely that's a typo. Optimum ported enclosure is way smaller than sealed?

 

thought the same

 

Looks like there should be a 1 in front of the .47 - so more like 1.47 cubes. That sounds more realistic.

Volumes for the DVC are:

• Sealed Volume 0.55 ft.³
• Sealed F3 46 Hz
• Vented Volume1.5 ft.³
• Vented F3 22 Hz

22 Hz F3

 

Will be running sub at 300W max, going to try an old cheater amp first

 

hmmm!! dont know where last post came from?
yup, must be a typo, PE also has mounting depths listed differently between the -4 and -44. Mounting depth is 5" so it should fit.

If my calculations are correct a box 24" L x 7.5(bottom), 3.5"(top) x 18.5"H with a 24" x 3" knockout for that stinkin brace and .083 driver displacement should put me at .707 cu ft.. Going to try a 2" x 3" slot port so that should add another 7-8" off the side of the box with port windong through it. Parts express modeled the port and didnt see any issues. If there ade issues can whack that part off the enclosure, plug the hole and try an aero.

thanks again guys

 

Do the aero from the start! You can prob easily get away with a 3 inch. Trust me, it's a whole lot easier and much more flexible

 

checked out the precision ports, they are designed to go into the enclosure. No directions for external mounting, or 90 degree bends, port and enclosure will be as long as the truck is wide. Am I missing something here? Flare port length will be 29.04" minus 6" as per instructions, so overall 23". Think I will try the slot port. If it doesn't work and I change it out, you can be the first to tell me " I told ya so, dumbass"

 

Tuned that low, yeah you're gonna need a lot of port volume. Start marching the F3 back if you want it smaller. 22 Hz F3 is awful awesome though.

 

Honestly, you don't need to tune that low. 30-33hz is more than fine and it will still play down to 25-28hz without any issues. Very little music is actually below hz unless you specifically look for it.

There isn't instructions for external mounting the port but it simply mounts outside the box the same way as it mounts inside the box

 

I know a couple friends that own Dayton Audio subs. Ill ask them they built the box themselves. But these subs are not mainstream so people don't know they bump like hell. These are the best subwoofers ive ever heard and my friends 12 inch subwoofer slams harder than most dual 12 setups

 

ok, you guys got me. I am going off what the DIYMA guys suggest for the enclosure size and tune. From everything I have read, seems like they have this sub dialed in. Figure should design it as recommended. This is my first ported box, I knew nothing about tuning a box and have learned some, maybe just enough to be dangerous. What about 3" PVC, attach a closet flange to the box. then use a 90 and street 90 bend to trun the port back. Can swing the port. Thinking now, could pipe the port to ride just below the stinkin back brace, piece of foam to stop rattles. thoughts on PVC?
On the aero port, what threw me off was the inside/outside flare. doesnt matter that the inside flare would be on the end of the run. The outside flair has the same I.D. of the inside flair?

thanks guys

 

The trade off of a 22hz tuned box for auto mobile installations isn't worth it as the port has to be THAT much longer needing more gross volume.
I'm perfectly solid that you will be more than happy w 30-33hz tuning in a 1.4-1.5 cf net box. That is already quite a big box for behind the seat. A slot port is going to eat up a ton of volume, way more than the pvc aero ports, and won't sound as good or won't be as loud.

We see it all the time in our big builds. This is an example of bigger custom
Made flared ports, 8 and 10 Inch internal. One is for spl, one is for lower tuned demo and dialy