Now THAT is a Conundrum...

Well after working like crazy to redo the front suspension, I've gotten everything tightened up, buttoned up and... One of the wheels won't fit with the Tundra brake upgrade... The Driver's Side is like, not cooperating.

You can see everything I've done here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ok-so-here-we-go.486087/

The Passenger is CLOSE, and when I say close, I mean the kind of close where if you plucked two hairs off a gnat's ass and put them in there it wouldn't fit between the caliper and the wheel. That being said, the wheel DOES spin freely and doesn't get locked/clamped down or rub anything.

I called Power Stop to confirm that these were in fact the 13WL caliper casting.

I'm seriously at a loss here. Last night when I was getting the passenger's side wheel on I was stoked because everything was in there tight (torqued to spec) but it WORKED. Move to the driver's side, and the brake don't fit in the wheel. The tire is catching on the caliper and I've tried everything I can think of.

I took the wheel off, took the brakes off, took the rotors off, re-installed the rotors, re-installed the caliper- nothing. I even got the lug nuts on there and set it on the ground thinking something would settle out and then spin, but nope. It no workie.

Just so you know, I have American Racing Baja Wheels (16s) and I'm running on 33's:

http://www.americanracing.com/wheel/20340/ar172-baja

I've installed these calipers/brakes:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-KC2324-36

I have an 02 Xtra Cab, TRD OR, 4x4, 3.4L V6

I just replaced:

Lower Ball Joints- both sides
Outer Tie Rods- both sides
Sway Bar End Links- both sides
LCA Bushings- both sides
Tundra Brake Upgrade
SS Brake Lines (Wheelers)- both sides
Sway Bar Bushings
Steering Rack Bushings

I'm really at a loss here and I'm out of ideas.

I just called Wheelers and got some Spidertrax Spacers because that's the only thing I can think of to do here.

I welcome any and all comments.

 

You can grind off some of the caliper. And I mean a tiny bit, to fit. Folks have done it... too lazy to search but check TTORA

 

Yeah, the only problem with that is, these are powder coated.... The ONLY thing I'm worried about with spacers is, I just don't want my 3 year old to be riding with me and have a wheel come off going down the highway.

By the way- every time I ask a question, you always help me out. I really appreciate that, and just wanted to say thanks.

Truth.

 

Is the caliper physically touching the wheel, or is it possible that it is a stick on wheel weight? I have heard of the stick on wheel weights hitting the calipers and being ripped off.

If it were me, I would just grind some off the caliper. Get some caliper paint to touch up the spot that you grind off.

 

Honestly, I could do that, but it's not in the MMs, I mean it's touching the caliper pretty solid. It's definitely not the tire weight. When I went to get the lug nights tightened down, there was a solid grab on the caliper and I'm not sure grinding would help. I'm just afraid if I grind it, then it still won't be where I need it to be and I'll end up having to go the spacer route anyway.

The way I saw it, if I got spacers I could fix the frame rubbing with the 33's and get it out from under the UCA a little more, and still be able to use the Tundra brakes.

What do you think about that?

 

Just for grins, swap sides with your wheels. See if the one that fits on one side will fit on the other.

 

That's actually not a bad idea. I'll see what happens when I do that. If it works, then we'll know it's the caliper...

By the way- my whole family is from CS and our lake house is just north of there.

 

If you have to choose between some small wheel spacers and grinding a caliper, I 100% vote wheel spacers. I would never mess with my brakes like that, because stopping is pretty important and those calipers are under a lot of pressure.

As long as you use quality wheel spacers and torque them down properly and recheck every so often, you'll be fine.

 

I've already put them on order, but wanted to see if this is/was something that happens often. I've got EVERYTHING torqued down to factory spec and everything was looking solid and right before this happened last night.

I got the Spidertrax 1.25" on the way. I could always send them back if there was something I needed to do or if someone had a suggestion. I've never had wheel spacers before, but it's definitely something I can add to the monthly maintenance list.

I just know there are SO many posts about spacers- some are fine with them, some love them and of course some hate them and there really isn't a good consensus either way.

 

I have spent many, many hours on here (more than I care to admit) and the consensus I see is that spacers are fine as long as they're quality brand and torqued properly. Some people say they cause excess wear on wheel bearings, but they don't cause any more wear than offset wheels. The issues arise in other trucks like Fords and Chevys where you can run much larger and heavier tires, and they're sticking out 5". Anywho, I hope this fixes your issue!

 

I really appreciate your input.

I've been spending more time on here, and truth be told I wouldn't have even ATTEMPTED this kind of a project without all of the knowledge and input. By the way- another reason for the Tundra brake upgrade is/was I pull a boat trailer every weekend- 4 hour round trip during duck season. When I say every weekend- I mean EVERY weekend during the season so I wasn't so sure about messing with the brakes and grinding because I REALLY don't want to mess that up.

 

College Station has a lake??

 

I have to wonder if the Powder coating is thicker on one caliper like you said it is not much .

Then we are talking castings I wonder what the difference is between fail and pass

 

Haha. It's in Franklin/Normangee. Private lake called Camp Creek, it's about a 1,000 acre lake with some of the best freshwater fishing in Texas, and it's got some pretty dang good duck hunting for Texas.

 

I was wondering the exact same thing! What the tolerances were and if this one was on the higher end of that. Believe me, I was puzzled, and still am...

EDIT: Honestly, my first thought was, "oh man, I've REALLY screwed something up now!" Then I went back over everything and still had the same issue.

 

**UPDATE**

So I got the spacers, got them installed, got the brakes bled, went to get an alignment with no issues, UNTIL, the tech walks up to me and says "Can you come look at this?" My heart sank and I was thinking "oh boy, what did I screw up?" He goes "everything looks good except for this one MAJOR problem..." I'm thinking to myself "NOW WHAT?!?"

Good news- it was nothing I did... Bad news- it's going to take a few days to get the new calipers in so I can get them installed. (Pics below)

Remember how we were thinking the brakes not fitting was something due to the tolerances in casting or the powder coating? I think this was our issue, actually. It wasn't how they were installed, it was the part itself. The entire caliper is leaking brake fluid down where there two castings meet at the bottom of the caliper. I'm thinking this potentially had SOMETHING to do with the 13WL caliper not fitting on the driver's side:





Just wanted to get you guys an update.

 

Huh, interesting. Will you be able to get a new part for free?

 

Basically, I guess this is how it works, they are sending me 2 x New Calipers- yes. They are going to "charge" me for the calipers until they get the "defective" ones returned. Good news is- I'm going to send them the brake cores AND the old ones on their dime so I'll get $200 something back in cores and exchanges.

I think that is pretty fair.

 

It won't.

 

well just a thought here, why not just put different rims on it, seems like its the best way to go and no worries about wheel spacers and tires sticking outside the fenders a little because of the spacers?

I mean your upgrading the brakes so upgrade the rims as well and problem solved