If you want it done correctly, do it yourself

My plan was to install my lift kit myself, but as I got into it, I kept running into headaches. My jack stands were too short, had a hell of a time getting the ball joint apart, my spring compressor (made for VWs) didn't fit on the coils, etc. I decided it was just going to be easier, and quite possibly cheaper, to pay a shop to install my OME kit rather than fuss with it myself.

I researched shops in the area and got quotes...settling on one that specializes in off road trucks and had an impressive completely custom first gen taco of their own.

I should have done the suspension mods myself. When backing up or braking hard I would hear a "click." I thought it might be my sway bar hitting the struts, so I put in my relocation bracket. It still did it. So when I got home last night, I grabbed the upper control arm and yanked it it. It wiggled and made that same clicking sound! The long bolt that fastens it to the chassis was just hand tight!!! Literally hand tight. The torque spec for that fastener is 85 ft*lbf. I checked the other side and it was tighter but the wrench readout was showing about 60 ft*lbf, not the correct 85 ft*lbf.

I re-torqued them to the correct spec but now am wondering what else is messed up. I am going to have to go through and check all their work.

[In my day job I have the joy of calculating fastener torque values for our products and understand from a theoretical perspective why the torque values are not arbitrary and are detrimental to the function of the joint. Just tightening something down until it is 'probably good enough' is not acceptable in my book.]

Just a warning to others...if you want it done correctly, do it yourself.

 

Yep...yourself is always the best way so you know it is done right.

 

Well...At least checking it all over should be easier to do with the tools you have.
Glad you figured it out before anything departed the truck or seriously failed.

 

did you have the UCA's changed? if not, why did they even fuss with them?

 

that is why i dont ever let anyone touch my shit

 

Yes...I will be the only one doing non-warranty work from now on.

Yup, the SPC Light Racing UCAs, which by the way I am extremely impressed with. The online product literature doesn't do them justice. Serious adjustability.

 

always have always will

 

Your truck looks great after the lift. I'm looking to do something like that to my truck but haven't really decided what I want yet. What kind of lift did you buy? How much lift? How much did the lift itself cost you?

 

Thanks. I went with the OME kit w/885 coils and an AAL, LR UCAs, then also added new U Bolts, extended rear brake lines, and the sway bar relocation plate (probably not needed?). Parts ran $1198 plus shipping from ToyTec with the TW discount. At the same time I went to 265/70-17 Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires.

 

i'm just glad you made it home without everything falling apart

 

Sometimes you might think the job is too much for you, it may just require you to seek additional knowledge or assistance. Keep these in mind:

From your point of view: I like my vehicle, and want to do this right the first time. I take pride and satisfaction in a job well done.

From an outside source: Just another filthy vehicle to bust my knuckles on, they don't pay me enough for this BS! WTF, I never did this before... No sweat, I get paid by the hour.

Good mechanics are out there, so when you finally find one, always be sure to tip them in cash or beer, and stick with them. They may not be easy to find, and will not be the cheapest cost, but in the end the cheapest in not the least costly.

 

Thanks for the information... Your truck looks great, thats about the height that I'm looking to get. Does your truck still fit in the garage with the lift?

 

Sorry you had troubles. The auto repair trade drives me crazy. Paid on time more than quality. There is never time to do it right but there is always time to do it over! Your comments about torque values is spot on. Those that tighten with air tools or German torque values (gootntight) cause more trouble down the road. On top of that, not tightening to specifications is shortcutting the job, so you are NOT doing the job you are being paid for (by book time). I am a tech and I even torque drain plugs! But you know what? 250K mile cars that I service, I can put a wrench on the drain plug, loosen it 1/4 turn and take it out with my fingers. It saves me time in the long run. On top of that it saves my customers money. The only oil drain plugs or pans I have had to replace are on vehicles that I have not regularly serviced.

Developing a relationship with a good shop is important. Many times people develop a relationship with the service advisor and that is not bad. I would encourage you to speak with the tech working on your vehicle. If you find a good one, the best tip you can give them is likely to REQUEST that tech when you schedule. It helps develop a partnership. If the shop you use does not like you talking with your mechanic.........ask why
Some shops and owners fear that a tech could leave and take customers with them. If they have turn over that high, I think it says something........

 

All great info, thanks!

Neil, yes it still fits in the garage, but only by a gnat's whisker. There is a rubber weatherstrip/seal on the door frame that seals against the garage door when closed...that hits the bars on top of my rack. And the radio antenna hits by a good inch or so and I have since ordered a shorter 13" antenna.

 

Well thats good to know bc I wouldn't put the lift on if my truck didn't fit afterwards. Its a must that I park my truck in the garage! Thanks for your info!