Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah offer advice. But that's it. It's a private sale not a car lot with a warranty.

 

I was thinking that as well but the movement looks like its coming from the uniball, ill post the vid.


Thanks for the advice guys, I feel the same way. But obviously I want it to be a win win situation with the new owner being happy with his new truck as well. Im trying to give him advice on what to check and all. Appreciate the advice.

 

25k is a long time on a uniball

 

I think it had a bit less, but they were still tight, and basically 99% of that driving was on the road. No slop to have play in it, but yeah always a chance that it developed after I sold it.

 

Mine have 60k and no play..... same with my hemis

 

Darn well better be running good after only 60k!

 

Good ol' buddy. Wheel bearing could be doing that. Electrical problems such as...?

 

I work back and forth from Winslow to Belen runnin trains. Can bring them with if your willing to cruise out to Belen

 

If he took it offroad, I'd offer advice with the stipulation that you have no idea what he's done with it offroad. He could've driven the truck above it's limits and now is coming back to you with complaints, which is not your problem.

 

^^^This. I bet he hucked it the day he bought it and now there are mystery issues. Especially if he doesn't know much about LT, he could have easily driven it past it's limits thinking that it will be fine.

 

Now that's he's owned the truck he may be realizing that it's not as glamour as he thought and that long travel parts don't tend to quiet of dd friendly. He may be looking for things to point out in hopes of getting out of a situation in which he bit off more than he can chew. I tell lots of customers that they better have a good job and a decent amount of disposable income if they plan on owning an LT truck, because if they can't fix/understand all aspects of taking care of it, it won't be cheap to have someone else take care of it.

 

I didn't notice that...... *heim joints

 

So what tools are you home install guys using to check/ measure/set the alignment? Im trying to prepare myself for my install and would like to get the alignment close before taking it to the shop for final adjustment. And then solid mount my lowers after the shop gets it spot on so it can't move.

 

So is that like half a truck or a few motorcycles? Lol. j/k

Sorry gotta do something to keep me occupied here at the animal hospital at 3:30 am after finding my roommate's cat had an elastic band around his paw, nearly causing the paw to die :-/ He'll be alright, poor guy.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/

 

Ive sold two built trucks...haven't heard from either buyers lol

 

Thanks. I think I've seen this before but never read through it. Mostly wanted to see what sort of tools I might need to get me by

 

I've done this for the toe just to get it to an alignment shop - a little easier than the spray paint method if you're just going to have it done at a shop soon anyway. I was in spec so they didn't have to touch it on one side and really close on the other. I used twine, a couple jack stands, and a ruler.

 

Yeah toe I wasn't too worried about. Done it a ton of times on quads and utvs. I just wanted to be able to get camber and castor pretty close on the initial install since the uppers are going to be heimed, then take it to the shop the next day. I paid for lifetime alignments so I'll let them do the final dialing in. Then I'll measure and solid mount the lowers so I hopefully don't have to deal with it too often any more.

 

Ummm...unless your WMS to WMS front and rear are equal this method is useless. On most lifted trucks with stock arms the front is actually narrower than the rear because if you have a 3" lift you have pulled the wheels in 1/4" as the truck goes up and the arms go down and it narrows the width. On a long travel truck your front end is way the fook wider than the rear so the string trick is extra useless. Most folks with a 3.5" over front kit are running either no wheel spacers or 2" spacers at most so even with a 2" spacer the front end is still 1.5" wider per side than the rear. That's why everyone does the spray paint trick or paint pen trick.

 

How much you wanna bet he took his new "built" truck on some trails and hammered down and now it's fucked up and he's trying to get dude to replace it.