Sound proofing a reg cab el cheapo truck.

Decided to keep my el cheapo 2004 2wd/reg cab/5 speed Tacoma and drive it into the ground. It has 181,000 on it, figured its time to spruce it up a bit.

One thing that has always annoyed me about this truck is the racket. Just a ton of road/engine noise gets in the cabin. My old $600 POS 1993 Toyota truck was quieter than this one. Figured I'm going to take out the seat and carpet and lay some sound insulation on the floor and along the back wall of the cab.

Should I take the door panels off and put some sound deadner there too? I'm thinking of replacing the front speakers(even with an aftermarket head unit the stock ones still haven't blown).

Also what about on the underside of the hood? Most cars have some sort of acoustical insulation there, even cheap cars like my old 1999 Camaro. What sort of product should I use for the under-side of the hood?

So what sort of products would you guys recommend? And how much of this stuff should I order to do the cab floor, up the firewall a little bit, the doors, and up the cab behind the rear seat???

 

Frost King.

I would not worry about doing anything under the hood.

 

its not the floor so don't waste your time on it.

its the doors, side corners, firewall, and rear wall panel, open the door panels and use sound mat in them and do the same for the rear wall, that is where all the noise comes from. I was told to do firewall too but I didn't and my trucks road noise was cut down by 75% plus you get a good solid thud when closing the doors now so they don't have that empty can sound.

I used this, its sound mat plus foam mat overlay that completely blocks out the sound as well as makes the speakers sound better. they have complete kits to do most of it then you just buy any extra you need to finish http://www.raamaudio.com/categories/Mat-and-Foam-Products/


this is the kit I used for my 04 extra cab and it was just barely enough to do the doors, back corners, and rear wall http://www.raamaudio.com/package-1-...s-ofensolite-iuo-peel-and-stick-41-625-sq-ft/

 

If u wanna cheap out, go to Home Depot or lowes and they have rubber butyl flashing tape, which is almost identical to overpriced stuff like dynamat. It costs about 15$ per roll for like 25 ft or so. I would do the doors, it's not too hard to pull the panels off, and u will notice a difference just from the sound closing.

 

ummm no

the sound matting is 1/8" thick, that flashing tape is going to need a minimum of 3-4 layers to reach that thickness. you are actually spending more to use window flashing if you put it on at the same thickness. also the glue on window flashing isn't as strong since its designed to be sandwiched between the siding and the exterior sheeting.

I used the window flashing on the floor and back wall of my 98 chevy and it works but not as well unless you make it just as thick. after a year or so the back wall had separated and wasn't stuck in place anymore but it stayed in place held up by the carpet lol

 

Ah didn't know about the thickness, still would probably be cheaper if you did 2 layers, but stickiness wise, if you get the actual rubber butyl adhesive that you heat up with a heat gun to help it stick, it doesn't come off. I've had it on my black tacoma, in many many 100 degree days.

 

Thanks for the good advice. I really do love my little truck, but man the noise makes me glad I installed a nice aftermarket head unit and some 6x9 speakers behind the rear seats.