Turbo BS Thread

this

 

Neat, what is it?

 

Zx3 Focus.

Rode like shit on road, but as soon as you drove it in the dirt, it handled so fuckin' well! miss my buddies..

 

I cut the top horizontal thiny off mine. It's just a little vertical stub now. Fits fine, hasn't melted or warped in any way.

 

Meth injection is what you want then. Get a cheap Devil's own kit and spray blue washer fluid. Heat problem solved. Transgo valve body kit will not change your stall speed. It will make it shift quicker and firmer. I had Great Coverters in TX restall my factory converter and I was able to achieve about a 2,800rpm flash stall. It could brake stall to whatever I wanted but the tires and brakes would never hold higher than 2800 really. It took my 60' from 2.1 to 1.9 on street tires (with a rear locker). Restalled converter costs about $400 plus shipping.

 

the orange horizontal handle thing? Or the mount for the block?

 

Yeah the handle for the trans dipstick.

 

Alright cool I'll give it a shot!

 

So I've been messing with trying to get this Megasquirt 3 installed the last week or so. For some reason I cannot get it RPM synced. I originally had the VR wires connected usin splice connectors so i switched that to butt connector with heat shrink thinking it was just not getting a secure connection. It is still not RPM syncing though. Anyone have any ideas?

This is how i have it wired up using a URD PNP harness:
Megasquirt = Tacoma wire naming system
------------------------------------------------
**Red-12V+ = B+ E5 Pin 12 White/Red
Light Blue-TPS = VTA E7 Pin 10 Yellow
Gray-VREF = VC E7 Pin 1 Green/Yellow
**White-VR+ = NE+ E6 Pin 6 Green (VR+, VR-, are in a shielded cable)
**Black-VR- = NE- E6 Pin 12 Red
Shielded ground = not connected
Coolant temp = THW E7 Pin 4 Green/Red
Air Temp = THA E7 Pin 3 Yellow/Green

**Runs to both MS and Stock ECU


MS3X Harness = Tacoma wire naming system
---------------------------------------------------
Injector A = #10 E8 Pin 12 White/Red
Injector B = #20 E8 Pin 11 White
Injector C = #30 E8 Pin 10 Red
Injector D = #40 E8 Pin 9 Red/Blue
Pin 9 Idle valve = RSO E8 Pin 7 Black/Red
Pin 27 VVT = RSC E8 Pin 6 Black
Spark A = IGT1 Cyl 1&4 E8 pin 23 Black/Blue
Spark B = IGT2 Cyl 2&3 E8 Pin 22 Brown/Yellow

A couple pics:






Here's what the logger should look like:

 

Is your crank setup correctly? Think that where you read rpm at.

 

Here are my ignition settings:

 

"spark hardware" might need to be an area you need to look into.

Just going off a guess. Haven't dug too deep into an MS3 in my free time. Crank, spark is always a tough one to figure out when dealing with something that is universal.

 

How many wires does your crank position sensor have? Two, or three?

 

3 wires. Positive, negative and shielded ground. Most people connect the Megasquirt to the positive and negative and leave the shielded ground as is.

I went over my wiring schematic again earlier and realized I flip flopped the VR+ and VR- pins I rewired them a little earlier so I'm going to go put the harness back in and test it out here in a bit after dinner

Hopefully it was something that stupid

 

So it is a Hall Effect sensor.

Hopefully that wiring change fixes it.

 

I just made a copy of my stock tune w/o i can have a back up that works when i tune for these injectors im hopefully swappin in tomorrow

 

Now that my Bimmer is at 100% legal, I can do the same to my truck......

 

I got the truck to start up! Turned out it was just the two wires were switched. Now I just need to figure out a few others things.

It idles, but rough. Fluctuations from about 800-1200 rpm. If I try to rev it some it dies

 

Needs more fuel and/or ignition timing at idle perhaps?