Wiring assistance.

I need to tap into an in-cab wire that receives constant power only when accessory or ignition is on. I am going to install a compressor and while I found the wire I can tie into for dash lights for the switch, I need one that I can tap to trip the relay. Anyone know a good wire around the switches on the lower left drivers side?

 

Using a compressor, you draw a lot of power, so I'd want to tap into the fuse box with a "fuse tap". The dash light fuse would likely not handle the compressor.

ABN Fuse Tap Holder & 5-Pack - 12V Add a Circuit Kit - ATM Low Profile Mini Blade & 15A AMP Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Circuit-Blade-Profile-Adapter/dp/B01BU59QA8/ref=sr_1_10?i=e=UTF8&qid=1496689834&sr=8-10&keywords=fuse+tap

Use a tester and find a fuse that is "hot" with ACC on..

...Make sure you use one with a higher amperage.....How much does your compressor draw..??

I think the correct one would be the one for the lighter plug in the cab....It can handle the draw.

I forget how it is labeled in the fuse box.... Found this ....

This is the one...


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dash-cam-fuse-box-tap-2016-tacoma.480809/

 

It's not drawing power through the switch. It's only to power a relay and the compressor would draw straight from the battery.

I don't like fuse taps. I am looking for a low voltage wire to tap specifically to run a relay.

 

OK, I'm not sure what you are talking about.... maybe someone else will help ya out.... Good luck.

 

A relay is basically just a switch that will live in the engine compartment. It's triggered by applying low voltage to close a circuit which will supply the actual power to the device you are running. By using a relay to run a compressor which can pull up to 50A, you keep that high powered electrical line inside the engine compartment rather than running something like that into the cab. Fuses are supposed to stop fires from happening, but I don't add in any high power lines in the cab just for safety. Also, I doubt the switch could handle 50A.

So I just need a lower powered wire to tie into that is normally hot when accessory/ignition is on. The cig lighter one would be an option, but I need the actual wire. I don't like fuse taps for how they fit and block other fuses, etc.

 

In to see this answer. I need the same thing to connect some relays for stuff I'm installing now.

 

Just do this. It's the easiest way. I have my ARB compressor hooked up that way...

 

Just because something is easy doesn't mean it's the right way. I'm not going to use a fuse tap.

 

Why not just pull the cig. lighter out of dash and connect your line there..??

 

That's a fair distance from the switch. There must be a wire near by that meets what I need. Apparently I need a wiring diagram.

 

I don't see how it's the wrong way? ARB instructions tell you to use the fuse. Just pull the fuse out, wrap the wire on it, plug it back in. Seems like you want to do more work than what's necessary.
If you don't want to do that pull up a wiring diagram and find the proper wire to splice in to...

 

I don't have a wiring diagram, hence why I'm looking on here and asking.

Pulling out a fuse and wrapping wire on it? That's just dumb.

I want to install the wiring properly and cleanly.

 

So search this site for one or use google. I promise it's out there.

I still am failing to see how you think connecting to a fuse is improper and dumb, but to each his own I guess. Good luck with your search

 

In all of the connectors under the driver's kick panel you will see a 4 pin connector. It has like 10 or 12 gauge wire in it. The red one is constant.

Personally I'd run it through the firewall and directly to the battery. That compressor pulls a lot of amps plus what is already on the circuit. Your choice/your choice though.

 

I can´t tell you which wire you need, but I can tell you this,
The add a circuit mentioned in post 2 is probably your best and safest bet.
Reason being, it sounds like you are wanting to splice into factory wiring, which could bite you in the rear should you have an electrical issue under warranty. A splice in the factory wiring is a quick way for a dealer to deny warranty claims.
Also, the add a circuit is easily reversible should you need to remove this set up for whatever reason.

 

Wrapping bare wire around a fuse is what is dumb.

Looking at the compressor wiring diagram, it looks like there must be an internal relay/switch as they don't mention that.

 

What compressor are you using? Did it come with a wire harness or are you running your own wire?

 

The compressor will be in the engine bay, the power for the compressor will run directly to the battery and that is where the large amp draw should be. Not through a switch in the dash.

 

It's an

$600 ARB CKMTA12 '12V' On-Board Twin High Performance Air Compressor, Ideal for Air Lockers Locking Differentials, Tire Inflator, Air Horn, Air Tools and Pneumatic Tools.

ARB CKMTA12. It has a harness of sorts, it's hard to say exactly as I don't have it yet and the documentation is not the greatest on showing it.

 

So you are trying to wire in the compressor without actually having the compressor or the wiring harness yet?