Fog Light Install Question

Hi everyone,

I recently got a 5-speed 2014 base 2.7L. The fake fog lights in the front are kind of starting to drive me crazy so I took a look into getting some until I realized its not wired for fogs at all. After looking into it some more I found a toyota kit (part #00016-35220), but it seems to no longer be in production.

Is there a replacement kit available anywhere that would essentially be the same thing? I'm not good enough at wiring to put something together on my own that would work so I was hoping to use these instructions and find a kit with the correct parts and hardware.

I've also found this

Fog Lights / Lamps Kit OEM Replacement for Toyota Tacoma (FL-TY090-AC3)

kit on Amazon, but it doesn't seem to be very high quality. Would the amazon kit work well if i were to buy a factory switch and some higher quality lights to replace what comes with it?

Sorry for the long post, I've found some other threads on this topic, but they all seemed to be before toyota stopped producing the kit.

 

The 2016/2017 fog lights are identical to the 2012-2015s, and as you saw, that 2012-2015 kit is no longer produced.

This makes me think the 2016/2017 kit is identical, down to the wiring harnesses.. so if you're looking for an OEM kit, I'd buy one of those. If not, you can always buy aftermarket wiring harnesses and use OEM housings, they usually sell for $40-60 shipped here in like new condition.

Guys are running aftermarket kits without issues, so it's really up to you whether or not the OEM housings are worth the extra cost. You could always sell the aftermarket housings to help offset that.

 

I was in the same boat as you. I initially bought this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-2015-T...ash=item58d83bded1:g:bD0AAOSwLEtYgYAV&vxp=mtr

because my truck was not pre-wired. I ran the wiring harness through the firewall, installed the switch, and then used one of these to tap into the parking brake so that the fogs would come on with them:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Battery-...75035&wl11=online&wl12=49674790&wl13=&veh=sem

When I tapped into my parking light, I used my manual to figure out which fuse it was. The fuse tap isn't the cleanest way to do things, but it does the job and is reasonably secure.

Upon deciding to go HID headlight route, I opted to upgrade to LED fogs by Morimoto to match the light output of the heads. I kept the wiring from before.

On a side note, I much prefer the lower bumper of the 05-11 over the 12-15. The round fog bezels look better to me, with the full color coordinated bumper.

 

Can you tell me how did this go? I pretty much am in the same boat as you both, except that I have zero experience doing this and am literally as lost as one can get.

 

Regarding the wiring, you will have two harnesses: one for the light relay and one for the power/button. The relay box itself needs a machine bolt found at any hardware store. I have mine placed here, on the right of the battery.




The longer wiring harness needs to be fed through the firewall. This will require some adjustment and probably a new hole in the firewall boot. Take a sharp object and puncture it and feed the whole harness through (do not attach the button yet). Also bring in the red hot wire. The black ground wire can be bolted straight onto the negative port on the battery or any solid metal piece on the frame.

One you bring the harness in through the firewall, you can use a multifuse tap like the one I linked on the thread, but also found here:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Battery-...27220205911858953453&affillinktype=10&veh=aff

The catch is this: the one i linked is NOT the one we need for our trucks. We need something along the lines of ATM-LP, for low profile, as our interior fuses are smaller, low profile ones. Got to Autozone and they'll be able to assist you well. I plugged mine into the same fuse slot as the parking brakes, so that I can use my fogs whenever I use them. You can use any other slot you like that is hot; some will be on all the time, others not, like the parking brakes. You will need to buy an additional fuse since you need two, one for the parking brakes, and one for your fogs. You need to splice the red line from the fog harness to the red line of the fuse tap. This can be done a variety of ways, soldering, crimping, wirenut, tape. I'd suggest the first two Here is the placement I used:



The harness junction can then be attached to your switch whenever you have found the slot you want to use.

I feel like I am forgetting something so please do not hesitate to ask me for further clarification or detail.

 

Yes absolutely. After reading T4RFTMFW's comment above, I decided I was comfortable going with an aftermarket kit. What I ended up ordering is right here. At first I was somewhat hesitant as I've never ordered through ebay before but for $40 it was worth a shot. I also went down to a local auto parts store and picked up a low profile add-a-fuse. That way I wouldn't have to splice into any of the truck's original wiring and could remove it if necessary without re-splicing. This video was very helpful as well although halfway through wiring he realizes his truck came pre-wired.

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures during the installation but I can attempt to go get some pictures.

 

I also installed factory OEM fogs in my truck. Also, not pre-wired either for them. @ChadsPride hooked me up with the housings and a harness. The harness didn't match, but it sounds like I know a little bit more about wiring than you do OP. You need the right amperage relay and in-line fuse. Too low amps and the fuse will blow all the time, too hot and you can burn your truck down. Doubtful and highly unlikely, but possible.

I crimped the leads to the lights into a harness adapter for factory fog bulbs, H11 IIRC, connected the right sized relay and put in a 10 amp fuse. It's not ran into the fuse box, but I'm not a dumbass and I've done this before so it looks neat and like it belongs there. Wiring is really not that hard to figure out. It's tedious and time consuming, but if you have stripper/cutters and a pair of pliers, you can make wire connections.

 

So, if I use something like this:

$7 Mini ATM Fuse Tap Add on Dual Circuit Adapter Auto Car Auto Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Fuse-Circuit-Adapter-Terminals/dp/B00AK0TGRS

I might be able to avoid any wire cutting?

Thank you guys for the responses!

 

If you have an exact fit harness. But I still doubt it. The factory fog switch uses 5 leads off it's connector. Most harnesses will be 3 leads (hot -red, ground -black/green, and neutral/relay switch -white)

 

The only splicing I did was between the add-circuit shown above and the red wire that I ran through the firewall to connect to the fuse panel. In the wiring that came in the ebay kit I linked above there is an inline fuse as well. I believe its 15 or 20 amps.

 

I just wired directly into the low beams. Simple and straightforward you could also wire into the DRL Wich will allow them to be on in low or high beam.

 

See, I thought about this. Then I ran it in and wired as I did so they would be on any time I push the button.

 

I have to do a lot of homework it sounds like. I barely realize what the concept of splicing a wire is, so I was willing to buy whatever that would make me be able avoid it.

 

It really isn't hard. At all.

 

Agreed.

 

I'm pretty limited, turns out, haha. But in any case, I am trying to better understand this comment you made:

If you have an exact fit harness. But I still doubt it. The factory fog switch uses 5 leads off it's connector. Most harnesses will be 3 leads (hot -red, ground -black/green, and neutral/relay switch -white)

Is that something commercially available?

 

The harness in the product you linked in our PM has all you need.

 

Which "slot" are you using? I see people going on low beam, and DRL...

Dirtydeeds; how about you, which slot did you plug the fogs into?

 

I didn't. The wiring harness I used wasn't specifically for the fogs. I simply made it work. Had to add on the bulb connectors, a new relay, extend the wires themselves in places, and connect the switch plug.

Essentially, I bypassed any fuse blocks entirely, power and ground are ran direct from battery. I can turn on my fogs any time I choose, even with the truck turned off.