NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Nice. I'm gonna crush that once I finish here haha. Currently on 38 days.. about 148 to go.. shit that's depressing. Why did I look that up

 

So what your saying is Tundra motor swap. Start with that front axle, then you can worry about a $20k engine swap.

 

I'm heading to Turkey this winter for a one year. I know the pain

 

Don't know if you'll have the time or how safe it is, but I always wanted to see Petra in person! Hope you can make the best of your time there.

 

I saw it a few years back. But Turkey is on lock down for us now. So I get a year of chilling on base working out.

 

A year.. damn.. I can barely do this 6-7 month one. Especially with it being the same thing every day 7 days a week.. it's like groundhogs day

Yeah Turkey isn't too fond of us right meow

 

Just one beer?

 

Just one beer.

 

I might be out there as well later on this year

 

Wtf Army are you in? lol

Where are you?

 

My UCAs came in today. Look/feel pretty dang nice... The hardware for the uniball (and the packaging) is strangely familiar to Total Chaos.
DSC_0231 by Alex Wilson, on Flickr

 

@AWilson013 do you know who owned this t4r? 2006 SR5, center lock, ghobi rack, afe intake, and has an ome lift with TC uppers along with scs wheels(which I know ToyotaGarage pushes) and 285/70/17. A friend just bought it from Michaels Toyota in Bellevue. I think it has one of those ebay bumpers on it.

 

Good looking 4th gen! I think that may be a Shrockworks bumper?

 

Yeah it's exactly what I'd move into if/when I sell my truck.

 

I'd second that. Pretty solid rigs and I wouldn't have to listen to people in the back complain about the jump seats.



Not that I'd ever sell my truck. Though everyone else it, so maybe I missed some memo and now's the time.

 

I'd ask them a few questions before shelling out that kind of money. Does their alternator have the same outside dimensions as stock? Do they have an output/rpm curve available? Is the pulley the same size as stock (if not, you'll likely need a different belt)? What kind of dust and water protection does the alternator come with? The last is a biggie for a truck going offroad. You can get higher outputs with better cooling, but better cooling usually comes at the expense of dust and water protection.

 

That's rediculous!!!!! $600+??!!!!??

 

Alternators and refrigerators are in cahoots:

 

Yep, saw that. They use a lot of words without actually saying much. It also answers none of the questions that I would ask. I'd ask about the size because if it is the same outside dimensions as stock then I have a difficult time believing that it'll give you the output that they claim at idle. For the amount of money that they charge, I think it would be ludicrous for them not to have an output/rpm curve. Any alternator shop worth their salt can do this for you. It's not the same as going to AutoZone and asking them to tell you if it's ok or not. You'll see a scan of one I had tested after the next paragraph.

Is the pulley diameter the same as stock? They don't say. I would hope so, but it ties into the above question. If they don't use a smaller pulley and the outside dimensions of the alternator are the same as stock, then you're likely to wind up with a dead spot at idle where the alternator is spinning but it's not really putting anything out. Looks like this:



That's from a rewound high output stock alternator. If you look at the lower left part of the curve you'll see a flat spot before the curve starts upwards. The alternator is spinning at this point, but it has no output. I would have to increase the engine RPM in order to move the alternator RPM further to the right and start to get some output.

The last question is a biggie. If the alternator is designed for show cars that need a crap ton of power to run the sound system or hydraulics at a car show, that's one thing. You'll have literally zero concern for dust, water or mud getting into it. This is great from the aspect of cooling. You need lots of airflow for cooling and things that keep water and mud out also keep air out. Get rid of the seals and you don't have to worry about overheating as much, but you've introduced a whole new potential problem if you go offroad.

I read through a lot of their tech articles and they talk alot about how high tech all their stuff is and all the testing that they do, yet they don't throw even one curve up to show the characteristics? I really hope that if you go this route that it works for you, but I guess I've been burned enough to be skeptical. I'm not trying to put down your decision at all, those are just some questions that I came up with off the bat from reading their product page that I would personally want answered before opening my wallet