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help me rehab a used ARE shell, a few questions...

Discussion in 'Tonneau Covers, Caps and Shells' started by thedutchtouch, Jun 6, 2017.

  1. Jun 6, 2017 at 1:42 PM
    #1
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    I just picked up a used shell on craigslist for pretty cheap because it has some issues. the plate reads "2005 Tacoma DC XS CX W/O" im guessing XS means short bed, CX means its a CX cap... what does W/O mean? it's without... something? are all CX caps able to support a roof rack? or maybe this is what the w/o mean .. w/o reinforcement?

    it has sliding side windows with screens and a fold down front window, they seem to all work fine. on to the issues...

    1. it's super dirty inside, has anyone ever used a carwash sprayer on the interior of a cap that has the carpet lining? will it mess with the glue holding it on or is this OK for a one time thing?
    2. it's missing the clamps that mount into the rails- currently held on with C clamps, though it has four obvious tabs with small round holes where something threads through into the bed rail- any idea where the cheapest place to replace the rail mounts is? and i've heard ARE caps have plastic clamps- if so, are there metal replacements available, or are the plastic ones just fine? (i'm aware the most likely reply is go to an ARE dealer, the ones close to me seem to price gouge so turning to the internet)
    3. need to replace the handle (key is gone and it's stuck in unlocked, i've seen these online for around 20 bucks, just wanted to check that they're pretty much generic and that's an OK price?
    4. the bottom (weatherstripping?) of the back glass is broken on one side- replacement? and it looks riveted in, anyone replaced this before? i was thinking drill out the rivet, replace with small stainless bolts w/ locktite? or do i need to get a rivet gun
    5. there's a small strip of trim around the bottom edge that's coming off in two corners. any reason to NOT use cyanoacrylate(super glue?) to reattach?

    thanks in advance for any help
     
  2. Jun 6, 2017 at 5:07 PM
    #2
    cseigh

    cseigh It's time for the smug face!!!!

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    1. I've used a hose and scrub brush on my carpet, no issues.
    2. Get the ones that slide into the bed rails then you thread a screw into, should be able to get them from a Leer dealer.
    3. No experience with ARE, but I bought a generic replacement for my Leer and it was fine.
    4. Not sure, pics would help
    5. CA is typically very thin and is only good for very tight fitting joints. Also can leave a residue from the fumes. I would utilize a good quality marine caulk (3M 4200 or similar)
     
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  3. Jun 6, 2017 at 5:16 PM
    #3
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    thanks very much for your reply, for #4 this is what i am referring to, the black plastic that fits over the bed. i'm thinking i can probably just drill a small hole and screw in a stainless screw slightly to the left of where the existing (blind) rivet is, since the plastic to the right is gone. looks much easier to fix after taking a second look.

     
  4. Jun 6, 2017 at 5:53 PM
    #4
    Sub_Par

    Sub_Par Well-Known Member

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    #4
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  5. Jun 6, 2017 at 6:05 PM
    #5
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    awesome thank you!

    thanks to all the help above i've got a new handle and clamps ordered, and should be able to knock out the other fixes pretty easily. thanks everyone!
     
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    #5
    Sub_Par[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jun 7, 2017 at 5:03 AM
    #6
    wake100

    wake100 Well-Known Member

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    That plastic piece it seems you need to go to a ARE dealer for and it is supposed to be approx $50
     
  7. Jun 7, 2017 at 5:06 PM
    #7
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    meaning #4? heck with that, a 1/2 inch stainless sheet metal screw is a few cents.
     
  8. Jun 7, 2017 at 6:01 PM
    #8
    wake100

    wake100 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah #4. I actually want to replace mine because it's broken all the way across except for one rivet. That's the only part I have not found another option for
     
  9. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:48 AM
    #9
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    alright, some progress has been made, but i am now left with a new question. the clamps @Sub_Par reccomended arrived, however i can't seem to get them to install correctly. the ARE cap has four tabs with a bolt hole that lines up with the tracks. unfortunately, the bolt that holds the clamp to the rail (smaller one) is too short to be threaded through the lower section of the clamp AND the tab o nthe cap, so i currently have the clamps installed next to these tabs rather than threading through. it would be an extra level of security having them threaded through, do i just need to go find some longer bolts? or am i doing something wrong?
     
  10. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:03 AM
    #10
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    Hopefully these help with the above post (and i am aware the clamps are not yet tightened down, didn't want to do so if i need to move them)

    IMG_20170613_105948.jpg
    IMG_20170613_110008.jpg
     
  11. Jun 13, 2017 at 9:31 AM
    #11
    Sub_Par

    Sub_Par Well-Known Member

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    My CX does not have any holes in like that. The brackets you have just clamp into the top of the lip and hold it down. You should be good with those just tighten em up. I would put them as far into the corners as you as well.
     
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  12. Jun 13, 2017 at 9:50 AM
    #12
    thedutchtouch

    thedutchtouch [OP] rebmeM nwonK-lleW

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    ah ok thanks, i guess theoretically i could just pass a bolt with a washer through each hole and call it a day, but i trust these bulky alum clamps more than the old fiberglass tabs, so looks like i'll tighten the clamps down as-is. This cap seems to have a few odd things, there's also a handle that swings down from the inner roof, i have no idea what it's for... will grab a picture soon.
     

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