Head Gasket Replacement F@#!ing Crazy

Seems when a truck flips end over end no matter how good it is fixed you end up with some issues. My current is a blown head gasket. Needless to say I was upset but jumped right into it. Figured I'd get a good start and then read the details after I tore the top of the engine apart. Just read the details ....... New I would have to do the front (timing chain and cover) but I didn't think I would have to remove the bottom too .....steering assembly frame cross member .... propeller shaft ....... the list goes forever. Needless to say regret starting this but what choice did I have any way. The whole issue revolves around the oil pan apparently sealing to the timing chain cover. Has anyone tried to pull timing chain cover with out removing the oil pan. I know why would anyone buy a salvaged title but I did save 12K ...... of course this repair will probably cost half of that.

 

Just pull the engine out and drop it off at a machine shop to be rebuilt. It will probably cost you 1-3k and you'll have a new engine basically.

 

I would have just pulled the motor. It would been way more easier.

 

According to the info on the 1GR posted in the stickies section, Toyota says that this engine should not have the cylinders honed due to the steel inserts in the aluminum block being very thin. Replace the head gasket, have the heads worked over, but don't touch the bottom end.

 

Perfect time for a V8 swap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ubgLnX0eyRE

 

Search "timing cover leak". I haven't done it, but it sounds as if it can be done without pulling the oil pan.

 

I just read the FSM recommended procedure ... that's a lot of work man. I just did an engine R&R (requires transmission R&R too) so I can understand your desire for shortcuts. It doesn't look there are any dowel pins at the bottom that would prevent the timing chain cover from coming off w/o dropping the bottom oil pan sub-assembly. The only question would be how effectively you can reseal the bottom end under the timing chain cover.

Considering how much work this is to do it as per FSM, I'd seriously give it a try. When you get it apart and cleaned up, I think you'll be able to tell yourself if you'll be able to restablish a good seal. If that's the only piece that is in question, it would be a shame to have to remove all the other components just for that. Put some extra sealant on that piece and cross your fingers.

Good luck.

 

I thought about pulling the motor too but didn't have a lift. Has anyone yanked an engine on a 08 4X4 sport. I know I will need a lift ..... more how long did it take and any unexpected rediculous requirements.

 

Wally,
Did you find your FSM on line pdf.... or where did you get it. I have a site that has all the chunks but it would be nice to find a combined file.
Also where in Ontario that was home once way back when.

 

I used the NCTTORA one. It would be really nice if the links between the PDFs worked as that index is pretty hairy, but if you read through it for a while it gets easier to find things. It's still an absolute gold mine of information.

I can't describe how much labour it is to do an Engine R&R as per FSM. I checked with the dealer and it's 21 hrs (hoist and air tools) plus all the non-reusable components and fluids. Thats why I recommended the shortcut, it would be a serious savings in time and labour.

I read a story of one guy that did it with his buddy in a weekend w/o dropping the transmission but he had an automatic and they were lucky to get the input shaft back in w/o messing up the torque convertor. I wanted to do the throwout bearing TSB myself so I took it off and did the full procedure. I spent a lot of time cleaning up rust/dirty parts and making everything was 100% so it took me longer to go through all that extra stuff that a shop would never do. Everything was spotless before reassembly as I don't plan on having to do this again.

I'm down in the banana belt near the border with Michigan. Hawaii is a nice relocation for a former Ontarian, at least half of the year anyways!

 

Wally ----- grew up in Chatham ...... long live the banana belt I actually miss it.
I will let you all know how it works out in the end ...... going to pull timing chain cover without droping the oil pan ....... worse case scenerio I have an oil leak and half to pull the oil pan and seal it up ........ what else could possibly go wrong

 

Did you ever develop a leak st the oil pan/timing chain cover? I'm doing the same job now.

 

Don't need to pull the oil pan.

Replace all o-ring gaskets.

Transmission doesn't need to be pulled unless replacing the rear main seal, or pulling the oil pan.

The "sleeves" are not steel. They are nicasil liners. They can be honed, and slightly over-bored.

Mr. Gasket Grey one minute gasket maker, is coolant and oil rated. You'll want something like that when you reseal the timing cover.

OEM or Cometic head gaskets.

 

Thank you for the info! I should be taking the timing cover off soon