Looking for some guidance on tackling some long overdue issues

Hi there, (Truck is 2000 ext. cab, 4x4, TRD, SR5, 5 speed, V6 btw)

My Tacoma has been developing some issues that I would like to solve.

1. Throwout bearing. I think I know what to do here, but maybe not. I replaced the clutch. IIRC, I was talked into keeping the old throwout bearing (the "used OEM toyota is better than new junk" mentality). A week later, my truck always makes this bad bearing noise (for lack of a better description). It actually has 2 noises. One of them goes away if I move the clutch pedal even a hair. I read somewhere this noise is due to the teeth on the pressure plate barely grazing the bearing? The other noise is much deeper and only goes away when I press the pedal all the way down. It sounds very much like a bad idler pulley. My question is, 'what part needs to be replaced exactly?' On Rockauto, I see 2 similar sounding parts - "clutch release bearing" and "clutch pilot bearing". What do I need to do to fix this properly? Also, if I'm going to take the eng/trans apart, what else should I do while I'm in there? Give me advice on whether to replace rear main seal or not. We didn't do it with the clutch because we thought it was too risky, but I feel now it may be leaking since the truck often has a faint oil smell but I've inspected all other seals.
2. Clutch pedal. I read that Tacomas have a common issue with the clutch pedal not returning all the way. Someone phrased it as "hooking your toe underneath and pulling it back up." Mine is pretty bad. It usually only returns about half way on its own. It seems the top 20% of the pedal travel is completely free. No resistance whatsoever. It did this before I changed the clutch, and got worse after. Every 'fix' I try makes it worse. I've taken the pedal apart and replaced the bushing, I've replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, spent hours bleeding it, etc. It never gets better. I don't know what else to try. My only other idea is that the input shaft on the trans is somehow like rusty, and is preventing full travel of the throwout bearing. In my head, it seems like if I put a spacer between the clutch fork and the pin from the slave cylinder, it would adjust the pedal to make the resistance happen higher on the pedal travel.
3. Exhaust leak. I finally replaced my exhaust system and fixed P0420. Both my cats were trashed, and everything cat-back was rusted to hell. So I replaced everything from the Y-pipe back. My truck sounds so much better now, but still not silent. In addition to the throwout bearing making a racket, I also seem to have an exhaust leak at the driver's manifold flange. Likely a broken stud. Advice if it's worth it to try to fix? Maybe related - right around 3k rpm, the truck makes a distinctly different exhaust noise, but only for about 200rpm. Gets very sharp in sound.
4. Minor engine vibration felt in cab. For 150k miles, I would say my Tacoma is pretty smooth. It never stumbles or surges at idle. The needle stays solid at 750rpm or whatever it is. But a really observant person like me can feel unsteady vibrations in the cabin. I guess I would describe the pattern as lll l l l lll ll l l l l lll They almost feel like half misses. I will pay more attention today to update this.
5. Rotors constantly warping. When I got my truck inspected originally, all the brakes failed for minor reasons. The fronts failed due to being warped. In 3 years, I've replaced the front rotors twice now, and they need it again. I've only had the truck for less than 35k miles. I buy "professional grade" Raybestos rotors and pads. I always put new pads on at the same time. After about a year, the truck starts to shudder very hard on the highway when I brake. What gives?? I want to think Raybestos is a quality brand, as I haven't had issues with them before. Should I try a different brand or is something wrong with the truck?
6. AC. I had the A/C semi-professionally recharged. They put a vacuum on the system for 30 mins, and it seemed to hold. Then they charged the system. My A/C was great for about 2 weeks. Then I used it sometime after and it was warm again. Seems obvious there is a leak in the system. Are there any common spots for leaks on Tacomas? Any advice on how to find the leak? Are the UV leak detection systems helpful?

 

Wow.you have some work to do...I thought my list was long....lol.....the sad thing is the clutch.....you was just there.....but I would go to the dealer and have them tell me what parts in needed by vin...

 

I was thinking about the rotor issue too.......the issue may not be in the front....from all the brake work I have done to my truck,i can tell the rear drums ingauge first on initial input,but fronts come in when stopping......if your braking system is only useing the fronts,they will overheat.....

 

The engine vibs and the exhaust leak are probley related.solve the leak,solve the shake.....I bet ya....time for some headers.

 

If you had to have the a.c. system charged at all,there was and has been a leaking issue...I've seen a car sit for 3.5 years and the a.c. was cold,after we got it running...but that was a 2010 cobalt...if you have access to the tools you can solve that one on your own...if not....I would pay the dealers diag fee.

 

Yeah, unfortunately, these trucks develop LOTS of small issues that are kind of a pain. I got the truck with 117k miles and it had all the big ticket problems. Bad clutch, leaking axle seals which ruined the rear brakes, bad steering rack, entire cat-back exhaust was rusted and the cats were bad. As well as a bunch of small things such as the warped rotors, bad carrier bearing, steering rack bushings, etc. The truck has been a never ending list of problems. From what I've read on the forums, these are all regular, common issues on 1st gen tacoma with the exception of the brake rotors. Cant find any info on that.

That is an interesting thought since my rear brakes are likely still coated in gear oil. That's actually a really good idea, thanks.

Ha. Headers? No thanks. But again, that may be a really good place to start looking. Wow

I hear what you're saying, but I've heard it both ways. I've heard people tell me that "no system is perfect, or 100% sealed. All A/C systems will have VERY small leaks that will leak refrigerant over years." I've heard this is normal, but I've also salvaged old BMWs with 200k miles that have been sitting for 5 years and the A/C is ice cold. It's hard to say. As bad as this may sound, personally, I would be okay with servicing the A/C system every 3-5 years in a truck like this if that's what it took to keep it running cold.

So yesterday, I got this bug up my butt to make some progress and I thought the A/C system would be the easiest and most straightforward. I went to AutoZone and rented a vacuum pump and a manifold gauge set. I pulled the vacuum on my truck for 35 mins. It pulled a vacuum at 29mmHg just fine, and then I turned the pump off. It held the vacuum at 29mmHg for 15 minutes, no problem! So then I charge the system with R134a, and my A/C blows cold. I thought it was odd that the sticker says the system holds 1.21-1.43 LB of refrigerant, but it only took less than one 12oz can to blow cold and the gauge read "properly filled". I turned my truck off to hear a loud hissing. I traced the hissing to my condenser, and saw dribbles of liquid where the hiss was coming from, so I guess I need a new condenser.

 

Yea when we have cars come in the shop with 200 miles on them,no a.c. concern.the first place I look is the front of the car.bam...there it is a rock popped the condenser,now what was a warranty concern is now customer pay....touch down...lol..

 

Wow I didn't realize it was that common.