Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Roger that. I'll call him on my lunch break. Need to call PSC as well. $$$

 

those guys are shit to deal with. my kit came with a bad pump and they wouldn't warranty it. other than that good stuff.

 

That's unfortunate considering they're basically the only name in the game.

 

Howe builds some bad ass stuff but they are really up there in price

 

I'm already setting the cc on fire, why not throw some fuel on it.

Their website certainly isn't setup for ease of use though.

 

A 1330 to 1350 u joint on the axle end of both shafts allows you to use the 1350 yoke on your axles. That's what I did on my d60

 

Doesn't the late model 14 bolt come with 1410 from factory? My builder persuaded to keep the 1410 instead of the toyota flange, as he races the Hammers every year with 1410s and has yet to destroy one.

Many guys will say that the toyota flange is still better than the 1410. I don't really know, but that's I went with. I modified my rear drive shaft to match the 1410 yoke, so there it went the toyota flange. I think older 14bolts have the smaller yokes, so guys usually prefer to do the toyota flange conversion in those anyway.

For the front I decided to keep the tacoma/toyota factory flange. So I got a d60-to-toyota flange from Poly Performance. It was 100bux i think plus shipping.

 

I recently had good experience with them. I bought an HA kit from Craigslist, it was on a different island. I had my friend go check it out and buy it for me. Was only used for mock up, never ran. He brought it over in his luggage. Anyway, I finally took a closer look at it, and the ram has a huge dent in the nipple and no way it would seal right, so I call up PSC asking if I could send it in to weld on a new nipple, the guy I talked to said it's not worth shipping back and forth, and the work to weld on a new one and re powdercoating, so he found me a new ram that had a couple chips in the PC and sold it to me cheap as scratch and dent. $90 shipped to Hawaii. And it looks better than the one I have anyway
I also bought a new resi as the one that came with the kit didn't have a filter.

 

I'm still learning so bear with me. That's a 1410 flange yes?

 

Looks 1350

 

Toyota u-joints are insanely strong. I'd go to a Toyota flange if you can. I know Jess normally recommends Toyota u-joints for everything.

 

Yeah but I've never broken a 1350 ujoint but I have snapped 5 toy Ujoints

 

Like an actual made in Japan Toyota ujoint, not some parts store piece of shit?

I broke an orileys ujoint, never a matsuba/Toyota. I shattered a cap but that doesn't count because it was cracked when I put it back on.

 

3 factory joints that came on the truck and two of the trail gear super joints

 

Crazy on the Toyota.

I'm guessing the fail gear super joints we're probably some rebadged chicom shit lol.

 

Then again I also blew up 12 diffs in that truck, a handful of front axles and a rear shaft

 

Usually the ears rip off the yoke or the driveshaft twists up before the u joint ever goes, good job!!

I broke the ear off that orileys u joint right in front of a group of jeepers idling up an obstical I walked numerous times before, damn Chinese pot metal!

 

Keep in mind that a Toyota flange is way better than a strap style yoke on a 1350. Normally u-joints don't fail from pure torque, it's getting banged on a rock that boogers an ear and lets the cap explode on a Toyota joint. Strap style get banged up way easier with a similar outcome on Dana joints. The Toyota flange does a better job protecting everything from getting hit when you lay it on the rocks

 

I have never hit a yoke/ Ujoint on a rock

 

I've only blown up u joints under load, both "Toyota" (Chinese horse shit) and Jeep strapped style.