I made a thing for switches because the thing I wanted didn't exist.

I started my install. A few pages back someone asked if this could be used with an air locker. I'm running a rear ARB and decided to make my own harness instead of using ARB's bulky harness.

One of my big concerns was that the Toyota switches can only handle 3amps where as the ARB switchs can handle 20amps. I looked into it, and the Relays I'm using draw .1amps, and the Air Switch on the Compressor to activate the locker draws .6amps. So I am well within the limits of the switches. The compressor and Light bar will each be power by a 30amp relay, and the air switch will be powered through the switch.

I still have some more work to do including mounting my Bussmann 10 circuit fuse box and running the wires.

Here is how I wired it. The key with the ARB circuits is that it has to be wired so the air switch cannot be activated until the compressor is activated. So the input to the air switch comes off of the output of the compressor switch.



I picked up a bunch of different color 18ga wire.


Even though its posted a few posts ago, here is the front of the panel

 

Cool. I ordered it a couple days ago. Should be awaiting me when I get home on Monday

 

That looks like a awesome job you got going.

 

I just ordered an ARB twin and a matching CH4x4 switch. Just one question, what is a good place to get ignition power from? I don't want the switch to be able to be turned on with the ignition off. I guess accessory power would be fine really.

 

Really happy with this switch panel. As Factory looking as it gets in my opinion. The switches are more blue than I would like.

 

Has anyone done a write up on how you're wiring these up? I'm an idiot with automotive wiring.

Do you use a fuse/relay block of some sort?
Do the switches come with the wiring harness?
How are you powering ditch lights from the battery?

@THATCH11B where's your DITCH LIGHTS switch from?

 

@dsmdylan I just got my switches from Cali Raised when I bought my ditch brackets. As far as wiring goes, my Rigid lights came with harnesses, which do have relays and switches. Rigid uses simple toggle switches which I discarded and yes the battery is the power source

 

Does anyone have a cover face plate for the cubby that they don't need? PM me please.

 

Bought a 2 switch plate and put my seat heater switches in it. Came out nice.

 

Anyone have a link to the switches that fit this correctly? I'm looking for a light bar/ bumper light one.

 

http://www.ch4x4.com/

 

Thank you!

 

Depends on three or two switch panel. OP will tell you.

 

I'm going to go with the three switch so I'll have an extra spot for the future. I think the site that @oilslick posted up have the correct size switches from what I was reading.

 

Yep

 

The Wago lever nuts work great for this mod,cuts the wiring time down to nothing!

 

Ordering a narrow 3 switch. Just curious, how long does it take to get to my doorstep? Does Shapeways have to make it then ship or do they have some on hand?

Thanks...

 

They do not make anything in advance. The order should have a projected ship date on it, usually a couple weeks out. In all the orders I've ever placed w/ Shapeways I've never had them not beat the projected ship date by at least a couple of days. Plastics often beat the date by a wider margin, metals come closer to the projected date.

 

I ordered one Saturday May 27th and it was delivered to me in Fargo, ND on Monday June 5th. Not bad at all.

 

Yea, I ordered today and last week of June it will be here. Perfect timing.