Chasing the 2200 rpm ping (2.7)

My truck always pings when i shift into reverse and start backing. Hope its nothing serious.

 

Different kind of ping, we are talking about ignition and detonation within the engine not the little ping noise the driveline makes when being torque loaded. You're all good likely, most of them do that, mine included on my Land Cruiser and Tacoma.

 

Fair enough. I'll hope for the best and prepare for the worst. I'm a stickler for doing my own maintenance too. I also stay on top of problems when they arrise.

If I don't have water in my oil or oil in my water and the exhaust man solves the pinging, then there's no reason to pull the head right? Or is there a way to check for cracks with the head on the truck?

 

Almost forgot, I'll do a compression test too. If that turns out good then my head should be good, correct?

 

Recap and update: plugs look good, no codes. OEM mini header and gaskets is on its way.

I plan to pull valve cover tomorrow and check valve clearance. Hopefully I won't find any super low clearances that may have caused any damage. I'm a machinist and plan to surface grind the shims (if needed) to get them into tolerance. The engine runs supper smooth and only pings/knocks a bit when hot under load between 2000-2500 rpm when its hot outside. I'm still hopeful that the exhaust manifold is causing the issue.

 

Was going to say exhaust leak at the manifold. See it a lit at my shop. Make sure you do not reuse the manifold bolts. Once torqued n heated they won't retorque properly again causing the same issue again.

 

Hopefully my manifold and parts will be in on Sat. I look for signs of the manifold gasket leaking. My leak isn't that loud to me(I think the heat shield helps keep the noise down).

 

Valve clearance is only slightly under spec on a few valves (worst ones are exhaust at .002" under). I'm very pleased with under the cover for a 290k motor. Chain guides look good too. I plan to surface grind the shims that are under spec or at the bottom end, looks like all of the exhaust and 1 intake shim.

 

You can get better accuracy by placing two feeler gauges together. You should be able to get accuracy to around 0.01mm or 0.0004 inches. Perhaps it doesn't matter too much as long as you get back within range.

 

OEM mini header, gasket and only (1) front pipe gasket(

$17 90917-06061 Exhaust Pipe Gasket

90917-06061) came in today. I called local dealer and got another y pipe gland and EGR pipe gasket on the way. Make sure you order (2) of the 90917-06061. Header looks pretty good, I chiseled off some splatter and purchased some silver VHT flameproof. The EGR studs in the cast manifold are seized in there so they are soaking in penetrating oil(I forgot to do so).

I've also decided to get the header on and see if it stops the pinging before I set the valve lash (sense it isn't out that bad). If I did it all at once, I wouldn't be able to report which fix corrected the pinging. Hopefully one of these things will.

 

I do have some feeler guages that are .0015 and .0025" and therefore could achieve .0085 if I wanted to. But I think .001" is plenty good for this.

 

subbed, thanks for doing all this, I always assumed that ping was normal tbh. Sounds like this right? https://youtu.be/kUdDVca9bR0?t=1m6s

 

My noise is different than that. My truck sounds normal except some light pinging between 2000 and 2400 rpm. Your exhaust leak sounds worse than mine.

 

With 290k, you could have a ton of carbon buildup that is either A)-enough to raise the compression ratio a bit and B)-may make a hot spot that is detonating the fuel improperly.

Run some sea foam through that thing, let the sea foam soak a while, and run that thing like a drag car. Repeat as necessary. You won't believe what comes out of your exhaust.

 

I've been thinking about that. You talking about 1/2 a can through the intake(brake booster)?

 

That or use the aerosol can one they have that you spray into the intake with a straw. I used that one, sprayed till it started smoking real good, then shut it off and let it soak like 3-4 hrs. I put a white paper down at my tailpipe on startup and I had carbon flakes come out the exhaust. Like, a lot. And that was like 160k.

 

That was on a 3.4. I'm a believer in the sea foam stuff. Watched a YouTube video of a guy using it on an s10. He took the intake manifold off and you could see where the sea foam settled on the bottom of the intake cause it looked brand new on the bottom of the intake runner. Stuff works good for removing carbon.

 

Thanks for the suggestion man. I'll look into doing that after I get it back together. My plan is still one thing at a time. mini header first.

 

You should get a NWOR header. More low end torque