3rd Gen. Tacoma Front, Rear Camera, Navigation Bypass, Homelink, Smartphone Mirroring Mod.

thank you. opening pin 17 made the message go away. leaving this open would keep the nav from working?

as you mentioned page 1 would be the best way to connect a forward camera and use page 4 for something tbd.

 

Playstation

 

Open line 17 MAY not update your gps location.
In the near future, I may pop out my HU again for a tiny circuit in pin 17. Just enough so Gps can be update and speed line not detect.

 

Mirror link for your smartphone: Waze, Google map, Hulu, YouTube, redtube ... etc

 

What am I missing here? With the SPDT switch in the "front" position I can see that ACC+ is fed to the relay and to pin 2.

However, when in the "rear" position isn't ACC+ being fed to pin 2 all the time?

 

I'm excited about adding the front camera and anytime mod thank you guys for sharing your knowledge.

 

If I already have essentially s1 and Relay portion figured out (I went the diode route) I would just need to put in a dpdt switch and wire in the rear and front camera portion correct?

Then I'll need to get the front camera power.

 

So I got a problem! I did the A/V Input into HU for A front camera (for parking).
I hooked everything up and it worked fine... then as I went to drive away my truck started beeping at me! The E-break light is on. Of course I check the e-break and its off. I ended up unplugging the 28 pin harness and plugging the factory radio harness back in. problem GONE! I don't know what i did wrong?
anyone that wants to point me in the right direction would be much appreciated. thanks!

 

sub

 

@juan-taco
You need to cut-off line 15 as in schematic in page 4

 

Hey everyone. This is my first TW post. I wasn't sure where to post this exactly, but this thread seemed to have the most up-to-date info regarding a front camera and auxiliary A/V input. I just got a 2015 TRD Sport (only 11k miles!) and wanted to add a front camera as well as have an A/V input so I can display Waze on the head unit. I wanted to keep the look as stock as possible, so I wasn't crazy about using a random toggle switch for the cameras and didn't really like the rocker-style switches. This is probably a bit (ok, maybe a lot) overkill, but instead I designed a little circuit board that does the following:
- Anytime camera mod
- Select front or rear camera
- Switch AUX input between OEM (the dash AUX input) and a second RCA input (for iPhone mirroring)
- Nav bypass when AUX enabled.

The circuit is pretty simple and is based on the info provided here (thanks Hoangde), and I was able to get the board fabricated on the cheap from www.seeedstudio.com. No relays or DPDT switches are necessary. The board has RCA inputs for an HDMI->RCA converter, as well as front/rear camera in and camera out to the head unit connections. I used one of the cables being sold by another forum member (jshsltr) to save me from cutting too many OEM wires. There is also a MOSFET on the board for switching power to the front camera when enabled.

I mounted three SPST switches from Air-On-Board for the front camera, rear camera, and AUX switch. I ran the HDMI cable as well as a 1A capable 5V USB adapter for phone charging down to the little pocket area to the right of the steering wheel (the stock 500mA USB connection sucks for phone charging). Power for everything is pulled from one of the 12V cig lighters, and the switches use the dash light circuit for illumination. I have the circuit designed so that if I have the front camera enabled and put the truck into reverse it will automatically switch to the rear camera. Putting it back in drive will then switch back to the front camera display. Pushing the AUX switch (in my case the "passenger eject" button) performs the navigation bypass and switches the AUX input over to the HDMI converter for iPhone mirroring.

Some photos below. I'm pretty happy with the install. If I were to do it again I'd use slightly larger components on the board (some were pretty tough to solder).

 

Excellent, but this is worthy of its own thread! And if I can beg, with a little more step by step "how to" involved.

This is exactly what I would like to do with my truck so I just want to copy what you have done. What type of costs did you have? How did you get the circuit board made? Give them the specs and they made it? Did you order the components through them and construct it yourself?

 

It came to me....the switch is a three position switch. so you have backup anytime, front anytime, and normal operation.

 

Are they going to be for sale I would be interested in buying one, keep it updated please.
Thanks
David

 

Wow this looks pissa, But,
Yes, this needs a new thread and so much more info.

Such as if you're doing this thing in a '15 on an with a say a Garmin front camera as I do and the installed rear camera and connect thi as shown to an IPhone is there any recording going on?
That's just my 1st question.
Pricing could be relative.
Otherwise , I love what you're aiming at!

sorry didn't realize this is fairly new

 

got it. working fine now. Thanks!

 

@Hoangde, I've been slowly gathering the parts to do the 28pin mod. I ordered the extra cable from Justin and am looking at the mirrorlink display box from Ebay. Would I need a video switcher for both mirroring and the front camera?
Btw, the mounting hole for that camera you linked in the first post is huge, around 1". Not gonna fit in the emblem without some cutting/drilling. I'm waiting to get a hold of another grill before mounting it.

 

@nktrnl
Yes, you are required to have a video selector (only cost few bucks in ebay), unless you want manually disconnect/connect each time switch between Smartphone mirroring / Camera.
My camera dimension is : 18.5mm x 21mm x 38mm which less than 3/4".
Thinking all possibility you can do with Video Selector . One port for Smartphone mirroring, second port DVD/media player (I am guilty) , third port for Camera ...etc.
As a matter of fact, I built one magnetic (neodymium) base or this base and mount the Car Camera for a friend so he can place it on top of his trailer He can see the traffic behind his trailer...

 

Ok, I'm almost ready to pull the trigger but thought I should post my plan to get feedback from the experts (cause I only like to do things once with no guess work).

Obviously this is based on the R&D done by the honorable Mr. "Hoangde". I did not want to do the "relay thing", and my needs are pretty basic (so far). I'm not an "electrical" guy so I tend to "brute force" (mechanical) my way through problems. Having already purchased 2 DPDT switches (on-off-on), and the 28 pin cable from jshslr (great job, thanks!). I think I'll try this:


The idea is that both DPDT switches would normally be in the "down position" as shown on the schematic. This would essentially leave the configuration in the "stock state", which is powering up the rear camera when reverse is selected. The added benefit would be that I could also switch on the front camera while in reverse (handy for parallel parking). By switching SW1 to the "up" position, it would put both cameras in the "always on" state, and also bypass the navigation speed trigger. For the most part the only time this would be used would be in "on the road" driving situations to see behind me for safe lane changes, or in parking lots to see how much room is left between my front bumper and the car/tree/building in front of me. As long as the Navigation system recovers within a few seconds after putting SW1 back to the down position, I'm not too worried about it.

I got a diode with my 28 pin cable, which has me wondering if this should go between the head unit and the power tap I'll be putting in for the front camera power?

I still need to finish up my 3D printed part that will replace the coin tray located on the left side of the steering wheel so I'll have a place to mount my switches when I'm done. I hope to get some feedback on my wiring before I tear apart my dash again.

Anyone?

 

I would make this change to avoid pulling power for the front camera from the reverse signal on Pin 2. Im not sure that signal is powerful enough to run a camera.

Also, you don't need any of the mods or RCA cables on the 28 pin connector other than pin 17 and 2.