ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

remove the bracket that attaches the cable to the leaf spring.

 

For anyone not wanting to deal with replacing rear brake lines, because they are a real bitch. Here's a poor man rear brake line extended. Found at any hardware store, just a steel spacer washer and a longer flange bolt. When you purchase, make sure the flange bolt is at least a 1/4" longer than the spacer.

 

How close is the inner tire @ full lock to the resi hose?

When I had my resi in that position with stock wheels and tires. I had a 1 finger gap.

 

That’s a good question, I need to check mine also.

 

Maximum clearance with it like this. Only thing is to put some protection between the shock tower ridge and the hose.

 

I need to crank mine up about 10 treads. Did you adjust your front on the truck?

 

Adjusted on truck with the wheels off the ground, lots of WD on threads and where the spring seats top and bottom using a 5/16" punch.

 

How was the clearance between the rear shock body and the lower axle mounts when the shock is at full bump, compressed?

 

I did the same mod you did to get clearance.

 

Ok just tried to adjust the fronts. Broke the bolt lose about a half turn and it will not budge with a 5/16 punch. I used silicon spray also. Not sure how lose the bolt needs to be. Did not want it to jump and cross tread. How much did you guys have to loosen the bolt?

 

Yes, full droop.

 

The extension on the end of the punch is what we did to add leverage and it made all the difference.

 

650 Springs. Going to get some WD-40 (not sure if the silicon spray I have is causing an issue) and cut the punch down. I bent it trying to get it to move. I'll let yoiu know how I make out.

 

We took half of the long handle of a floor jack and put that over the punch. This made it stick out quit a bit and after that, was real easy for @Texoma to crank it down. I cant take credit for any of this as it was all him

 

And after I figured out to lube the top and bottom of the spring as well as the shock body, I didn't need a cheater bar after that.

 

That's some serious preload you got there.

 

Bolt can be pretty much finger tight. I loosened until there wasn't any resistance, then spun it back in until I felt just the slightest resistance. If I had to put a number on it, maybe tight to a 1/4inch#

 

How much did you have to grind off to make sure there was enough clearance?

 

I pretty much grinded all the way down to the weld, leaving the bead intact.

 

We tried to do it on the truck but only got couple threads till it wouldn't budge. Took them off and took the top hat off to put in a vise. After lubing them and turning a few it was easy but still had to use the spanner wrench and a 5/16 punch to twist. Measured 1 1/4" of threads for passenger and 1 1/2" for driver side. Gave a little over 3", hopefully they settle.