Best motor oil???!!!

Any proof? Im not doubting you but that is a bold statement. I plan on using Pennzoil Platinum on my next change.

 

There's no evidence of this. This is just a fanboy statement.

Products like Mobil 1 and Amsoil CONTINUALLY come out ahead in the in depth tests, unlike the link to the test in an above post that simple measures "bearing scar length". That's like testing a new car just by starting it up... much more to consider in an oil... and, of course, Amsoil was left out- shocker.

 

Mobil 1 and Amsoil haven't changed their formula for years, oil chemistry has advanced as time has marched on. They are ok oils but aren't close to the new oils
PP
Edge
Pennzoil Ultra
Valvoline Syn power

Stop being a fanboy and deal with the facts

 

http://www.orangelineoil.com/images...ll_Synthetic_Motor_Oil_Product_Data_Sheet.pdf

SPECIFICATIONS & APPROVALS
• API SM.
• ILSAC GF-4.
• Chrysler MS 6395Q (5W-20, 5W-30 & 10W-30).
• Ford WSS-M2C-929-A (5W-30), WSS-M2C-930-A (5W-20).
• GM 6094M (5W-20, 5W-30 & 10W-30), & GM 4718M (5W-30 & 10W-30).
• Acura HTO-06 for turbo-charged applications (5W-30).
• Exceeds the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-5 (2010).

 

Mobil 1 sued Castrol oil over their claims of synthetic base

they haven't done squat to Valveoline's claim that they are 4 times better than Mobil 1
or Castroil's claim they are 8 times better - face facts

Mobil 1 had its day and its day is over.
Currently it is overpriced for what it is

 

I am in no way a Royal Purple "fanboy", I don't even use it. I just thought the article was interesting and so far the only independent oil tests of any kind I've seen on this thread.

You got any independent tests that back your claims?

I've been using Castrol Syntec. My brother is a Shop Foreman at a BMW dealer and that is what BMW puts in their cars. He get's it at a big discount, and therefore, so do I. The only reason I use it is because I pay so little for it.

 

Well that is darn good oil

 

I just put Penzoil Ultra w/ a Mobil 1 Filter at this last OCI. And I can say that the ticking noise is alot quieter. At least to my ears. Could it be placebo I suppose. But I feel better knowing PU is in there. Alot of good stuff has been released on PU. Seems like a good oil.

 

I've re-posted this several times. It's kind of a long read, but it has tons of info on oil and viscosity.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics

 

Nice comback! I bet those oils you listed are really good... like Fram filters! LOL! You are the funniest person on this site!

Thanks for the laughs...

 

This is excellent. Unlike the post just before mine here, I think this is a great contribution to this thread. I've only made it half way through the read, but he brings up some very interesting points. I especially like how he repeatedly points out that oils of the same weight and viscosity are basically the same. Makes perfect sense. + rep to you.

Again Heepspo, it would be nice if you would back up your fan boy statements, but that is probably asking too much...

 

Has any one read the "Motor Oil Bible"? The guys makes some pretty bold claims about his motor oil knowledge. Just curious if he is blowing hot air or has some good data.

One thing I did read that I though was very interesting was that using a higher micron filter could literally double the oil life and might be more important than the "right" oil.

 

Having a really good filter is more important than having the very best oil. Changing the oil frequently is more important than having the very best oil. Using the right viscosity for your operating conditions is more important than having the very best oil.

Also (and I've posted this more than once here) an engine will almost always sound and run better right after a fresh oil change, regardless of what oil came out and what went in, as long as they have the same relative viscosity at the temeratures prevailing.

All modern oils are wonderful compared to oils of the past. It's almost impossible to get a bad one, unless you buy some re-processed or off-brand stuff.

Still, you ultimately get what you pay for. Less expensive universally means less performance.

 

No love for Royal Purple? If it's expensive it must be good, right?

 

I am reading that guys information now. (motor oil bible) From what I have read so far he is technically accurate and that is important to me. (Technical instructor)

Lubrication and filtration ARE a system on any vehicle. If you use great oil and a poor filter you are not really benefitting. Air filtration is important too because of the normal blow by to the crank case too. That stuff gets in the oil over time.

Mobile 1 and Amsoil haves changed formulas over the years, so the one comment I just read is not accurate. Any new rating or viscocity is a new formula to meet certain operating conditions. "Extended Performance" relatively new in the Mobil line up.

About the Ferrari chat article posted. The information is good, but there is a point of view in the article. I just spent time reviewing his writing to get the thrust of his information. He is very fixated on oil weights. That is part of the story. Think of a Ferrari engine and the VERY wide range of engine speeds and loads that engine can see and produce. Few of us drive engines that develop RPM that high. Since an oil pump is a positive displacement type pump, the faster it runs the more it pumps and all that information is valid. But to take away from that that all oils of a specific API rating are essentially the same is not the right message. The oil may behave similarly at specific temperatures in how it flows and that is important but only a part of what an oil needs to do. The specific chemistry of the oil will effect things like the ability to suspend particles, the residual film left on parts at shut down, the interaction with acids and how well it prevents corrosion. Add to that the rating of how well it actually prevents wear and how stable the structures in the oil are over time and you can see that not all XXWXX oils are the same. Time and again we see engines that use an oil that meets the API rating for weight but not the perfomance standard of the engine maker. You see premature wear, sludge, lower mileage and so on with those engine. "Defects" not seen when a vehicle is service with an appropriate oil.

This is a fun topic. I gotta go change my oil.

 

I would not run amsoil. I had amsoil and an amsoil filter in my 07 and it ruined my engine.

 

I definately like it.

And despite what I said earlier, price is far from the ultimate indicator of quality.

Suitibility for the purpose is most important. The most expensive available could still be the wrong one for you.

 

Curious George here. A toyota motor will last on just about any oil if OCI is 3k or so. How many miles did you have when it went ? What do you think happened ? How often did you change your oil ? Some of the posts that say go 50K because they use amsoil or purple or some expensive oil are ridiculous IMHO. So now flame me.

 

See, I don't think I could bring myself to go 50k without changing the oil, no matter how great the oil is supposed to be. Just doesn't feel right.

 

Well we are on the same page. Doesn't make sense to me. I've always gone with 3k and always used dino. Gon'a change to syn Sun if I don't get blown away or float away, then going to go with 5K. not 50k.