Rocker switch

Im wondering if anyone can give me some help with the CORRECT way to wire up a rocker switch. I'm trying to go from a 3 pin switch to 5 pin rocker switch. I've been searching on the forums/ google and it seems like there are a few different ways to do it and I'm wondering what is the right way... I know you can wire the top 2 (grounds) together, but I don't know how to do the positives/ signal wire. Thanks for the help.

 

I don't know if they are all the same..however if you are looking at the switch with the two grounds at the top - that's pin 8 on the left and 7 on the right. Both ground.

Now, the lone switch in the middle is pin 2, which is power input.

Next row down, pin 3 on the left is pin 3, which is power output.

The last one, pin 6 on the bottom right should be dash illumination.

This is if they are the same as ARB rockers.

So you can't really go to a 3 pin unless you aren't doing illumination. The two grounds you can just jump together. Power input would go to pin 2, power output to pin 3 (to a relay or whatever you are turning on).

To test, there should be no continuity between pin 2 and 3 with the switch off, but should be continuity with the switch on.

 

The power input (pin2) to switch and illumination (pin6) can be jumpered as well unless you plan 2 tie into a dimmable circuit.

 

Yup, then you just have the light on all the time. Or at least one portion of the light.

 

This is how i did mine, the black up top is pigtailed for negative. And the white is my positive. I then bought a roll of trailer leads 7 wire and attached each color to a switch with weatherpacks under the dash for easy disconnection if necessary.

 

Yes, sorry should have mentioned that i used a inline toggle so i can cut power completly and not drain the battery. Otherwise without tapping into an acc circuit for illumination the bottom half will not get lit up unless switch is on.

 

I don't plan on doing a dimmable light. I just want the bottom one on, then when switch is engaged, the other part to light up

 

That's exactly what I want to do

 

So it will pretty much look like this, correct?

 

Yes. If you dont want constant power you will want an add a fuse or tap into a power source thats only on with acc or truck. Such as cig lighter etc.

 

Honestly, do it the right way and tie the illumination into a lighted source. Run relays for anything that draws over 10amps. I personally don't like anything with amperage running into the cab.

Those carling switch are good for about 20amps, but I don't like running more than 10amps through them.

Use a breaker as a disconnect. Your toggle switch idea is ok, but once again you will most likely exceed the amperage rating if you are running multiple accessories off it.

I've seen many rigs almost burn down from poor wiring, including mine. Do it right, run relays keep everything clean. If you use crimp connectors over soldering, get a $30 crimper, don't cheap out.

If wiring were fun and easy, everyone would have lights and gadgets for days.

 

Yes, that's a great idea, I was going to do that. I have another switch wired 2, would I be able to put both to the same add a circuit? Or would it have to be 2 separate ones?

 

Sorry I should have mentioned it's for the caliraisedled ditch lights. I got the wiring harness as well so it already has the relay. But ya, I'm definitely trying to do it the RIGHT way. Thanks for the input.

 

If you are using relays, you could power the signal through a fuse tap in the P/Outlet 1 or 2 position. They are both rated to 15amps, and a relay draws .1amps.

Heres how I did mine. 1 tap is off of the Taillight circuit, rated to 7.5amps. This is for illumination.

Second is off of P/Outlet 2, rated to 15amps.

It's safe, clean, and can be returned to stock. No cutting of factory wires.

Micro Fuse taps are from Amazon, and use double fuses so that both circuits are protected.

 

That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much. I already have my led bar tapped in, but not with the add a fuse. So that's another part I wanted to do the right way. I already have a pack of the add a fuse, I knew I was going to need those lol. But I'm assuming the fuse position doesn't matter? Like when you take the one out of the panel and put it in the add a fuse?

 

The fuse tap has to be oriented the correct way otherwise you bypass the fuse and you have a constant hot. That is why mine are facing differnet directions.

Simple test light, or volt meter should be used to make sure everything is hooked up properly.

 

Sorry should have mentioned my switch power and lights are all ran with relays through a deep sea fuse box.

 

Sorry I guess I wasn't clear before. Yes, I want a portion of the light to be on, ONLY when the truck is on. And then the other part when it's engaged.

I just wired it up and plugged it in and I still have the constant light on. So to get around this, this is when I use the add a fuse? And which color from the original switch? Red?

 

Subd for future use

 

So if it's constant on, then you are not wired to an accessory that is only on with the truck. I don't like the add-a-fuse but that's me.

Your original switch - I don't know what red is or how you wired it. If it's power input from the battery then yeah the light will be on all the time if that is wired to illumination. Need more info as to what your wires go to.