Firearm BS thread

I'd try loctite first if there isn't any on the screws already.

 

Before you do that mark it with a pencil and go put a couple of boxes through her. That'll let you see if it's moving at all. If you're going to epoxy anything to a rifle, you need to make REALLY sure that you like it first, lol.

 

What I was reading about the epoxy is only used to make a perfectly fitted match between the bottom of the rail and the rifle. You put some grease on the top of the rifle to make it so the epoxy does not stick to the receiver

 

Ah, I see. That's different, then. I thought you meant that you were going to epoxy the rail to the gun.

 

I definitely will not be doing that. It would end up in the WTF thread. I have my blue 22 and Kel Tec to look funny

 

Alex-Keep practicing
Is your barrel threaded and do you have brake on it?
You said you used a backpack to support the front of the gun, what about the rear? Just your shoulder?

 

It is not threaded/no brake.

We sighted it in as close as we could on a sled. It still looked about the same as the picture I posted.

For the 10 shots on that target (from that picture) it was on a backpack, to my shoulder with my left hand under the butt of the rifle.

 

That rifle should shoot a lot better
There is a fair amount of technique in precision shooting.

A brake will make a world of difference. I had a threaded barrel on my tikka and used a Witt Machine brake. A friend had a non-threaded barrel on a Rem 700 and used Witt's clamp on brake and it worked extremely well.
http://wittmachine.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180

A front bi-pod will help as well as rear bags. Should be able to adapt a Harris to the front sling mount or add a short rail to the stock.

"The Wilderness Tactical" is local to you and sells quality rear bags as well as lots of other good gear. I'd recommend a medium and large rear bag.

I've experienced lower end scopes reticles move under heavy recoil, something to keep in mind.

Practice practice!

 

I've definitely got a lot to learn.

I wonder how much it would cost to get the barrel threaded. Got any recommendations for a gunsmith in the valley? I won't be doing that soon however.

Is the plastic forend of the rifle going to flex too much with a bipod?

I have a belt from the wilderness. It's been great for the last year!

Hopefully it's not the scope. I know it is a pretty cheap one but I'd like to be able to learn to shoot consistently and accurately with it out to 200 at least

 

Your Teaka right out of the box should easily be doing 2 to 3 inch groups at 200 yards not touching anything, no break, no bedding. Just a solid shooting platform and a decent scope, in my professional opinion by the way you have described things I would definitely take a look at the scope itself, how it tracks and if it stays zerord. I would not sweat having to bed anything or at a break, look at your scope!

 

How would I check it?

 

It will flex, no getting around that with that stock.
However I would think it would flex away from the barrel.
Resting on a front rest works but ideally you should eliminate any rifle jump. Loading a bi-pod will help with that along with a brake.
I'm sure there are 'smiths that could thread it but I'm not sure who that'd be.
That clamp on brake does work well. He runs sales often.
Ultimately a full chassis would be the hot ticket It never ends!

 

First thing, refresh my memory what scope did you put on that? And if my memory serves right you said your Teaka was a 308 correct?

 

It's a Primary Arms 4-14x44

http://shop.opticsplanet.com/primar...plusbox-beta&gclid=CJyv3JThwNQCFYIDaQodvQ0O8g

Not top end by any means but it has good reviews and was pretty clear at 200yds.

 

Your scope choice seems to be all right, do you have a good clean photo of your set up?

 

What other angles/pictures would be helpful?

 

As long as you say everything is secure and tight, no real problems jump out initially. I know I might not be the norm having dozens and dozens of scopes to choose from , but do you have a back up scope you can swap out to in order to determine whether it's a scope issue or something else?

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but how well do you shoot? Do you have other rifles that you can shoot accurately at that distance? If not, I'd let someone else shoot it before you get too worked up over what might be the issue.

Shooting off a backpack is quite stable if done right, so that shouldn't be the issue. A brake isn't going to do much for your shooting unless you're flinching. If that's the case I'd rather have a lower recoil round than a brake.

 

So I got my .22 suppressor today (Griffin Checkmate, 1" tube, 6" long, 5.3 Oz) and I need to find a pistol host for it, looking at either the GSG 1911-22 or the ruger Mark IV either the Light or Tactical (thinking the light because it's almost the same weight with suppressor as the tactical is without the suppressor), any thoughts?

 

I'm planning to buy the MK IV light when my suppressor gets OK'd. I just think it's never wrong to go with the Ruger. I've had many over the years and all shot well. The only reason I'm buying another is I don't want to thread any I currently own.