Check your Air Intake Hose Clamp

Playing Devils Advocate it also gives them data to make improvements in parts and assembly.

By the time our 2007 Trailblazer had 36k on it the thing had had about $4,000 worth of warranty work done, including the front wheel bearings and one half shaft because it would not come out of the wheel bearing.

GM stuck me with the GM extended warranty deductible ($150) on the fuel level sender that failed sub 50,000 miles.....jackass who was the phone contact on that deal told me "I was not talking to anybody BUT him, and if you have an issue contact the President of GM".

Well I'll never buy another GM...that is his answer, and I have been riding in GM and driving GM since my birth in 1964...that TB is one of the biggest POS I have ever seen as far as needing stuff sub 100k.

Bill

 

Crazy, yes it does drive me crazy. If I could take it in with a concern and have someone look at it and properly diagnose I'd be fine to leave it as is. But like many others I didn't buy this "most reliable" pickup to last me 60k miles. I expected this to run 200k EASY without major failures and another 100+ with some work. All toyotas I've had held up to that standard. I've been in the shop more in the last 12k than I was in the prior 300k of Toyota ownership aside from normal oil changes.

So yeah, I wanted to just drive and not worry about the 22,000 parts or I would have never bought it. But when you see multiple patterns of subpar assembly and QC, I think you'd be crazy NOT to check things out at this point...

 

I didn't notice any loose hose clamps when I removed my stock intake and put on the TRD one. I will say it wasn't as tight as specified but not loose per say.

I just don't think this is a truck you buy and don't check over but I love doing the work so I'm fine.

 

My truck seems much more responsive today driving in "D" after tightening the clamp. I'll restate from my previously post the clamp near the airbox was considerably loose on my 04/17 Texas build. I didn't clean my MAF or reset my ECU as I didn't want to bring that into the equation and I only have 1000 miles on it.

It feels like there is considerably more power. Due to the location of the clamp, after the MAF, air leaking through the clamped seal could cause the engine to run lean as it takes in more air than the MAF is reporting. Then again without a Check Engine Light showing and no codes, why aren't diagnostics picking this up?
This may be placebo, but temperature and humidity are pretty much the same today here in DFW as yesterday, so I'm hopeful, but I'm also skeptical of my own assumptions.

 

From my experience(with Bmw) a vacuum leak post maf will cause severe drive ability issues especially at WOT, it also should trigger CEL.. just saying

 

Checked mine yesterday. It seemed fine, but I gave it a few more turns. Viva la Mexico!!! (Made in Mexico)

 

doubtful it's in your head, but curious are you seeing any changes in MPGs? Over all else, I think my concern continues to be consistency. I never know how the truck is going to drive when I get in it. Like playing roulette - sometimes I feel like a winner and it's a joy to drive, other times with no explainable difference in conditions it goes to sh** and is a miserable drive that I loathe.

 

I just grabbed mine with my fingers and they felt OK, still need to check better as soon as I get the chance.

 

My air intake hose is tight, I removed it to check the TB and TPS lol.

I honestly have no clue what's wrong with my truck, the rest of y'all can ford rivers and sink up to the windows in sand and mud but j can't drive on a beach

 

how i feel exactly

 

Oh well, worth a look! I think your truck has gremlins, lol.

 

Just checked mine, and both were tight. Built May '16 in Baja.

 

It's funny you mention that. Some of the guys posting in the diff thread have paint dots on their bolts.

 

Stupid question: How do I take the plastic cover off the engine? I've never had a reason to do it before now. The clamp near the airbox is super tight, but I should probably check the one next to the engine.

 

I got 18.9 mpg on a trip this morning. It was mostly city driving below 60 mph with lots of stop lights. My mileage has been pretty good since purchase.

 

I just lifted up on the front and it easily popped off. Feels like it is barely connected on my truck.

 

I agree with all of this. I've been in the shop more with this truck than with 600K miles worth of high mileage used cars (including a Porsche and BMW). The Porsche has a CPS fail on me though. That was expensive.

 

This is correct. Pull up on the front and it pops off. It just sits on two rods that hold it in place and pivots on a hinge in the back.

I just confirmed both of mine were good. The one near the engine took two turns (just under two) before it felt really tight, but it wasn't what I would describe as "loose".

I have no clue what my build date was. I bought it in 01/16 (so presumably build date '15 sometime). Mine is a Tejas Taco for those of you trying to blame mexicans for our woes.

 

Loose would be the clamp can move around by just touching it and you can pop the pipe off by hand. Hopefully everyone saying theirs is loose has that situation. A few turns on the screw doesn't mean the clamp is loose. Just means it wasn't over tightened

 

Both are snug, built in Texas 3/17