ABS, Brake! & Traction Control lights on

That's the type of scanner I thought you bought. As you found out it will not read ABS, TPMS, and Airbag computers. As mentioned other high dollar scanners will but so will an Amazon/Ebay option if you are a little bit computer savvy, Toyota TIS Techstream knockoff. It is widely available with an OBD-usb cable and a disc with the software. Here's a shot of it, I was just checking my ABS code. A branch or something jumped up and caught my RR line and broke the plastic clip that held it to the axle. In doing so it tore the wires inside. The outer insulation is pretty much cut proof, but it does stretch a lot, the wires inside not so much.

This is the live ABS data view

 

Link for posterity, read the descriptions and reviews to choose one
https://amazon.com/Docooler-Mini-Diagnostic-Scanner-Toyota/dp/B01KJI2ZSC
https://www.amazon.com/Hain-MINI-VCI-Interface-Firmware-V11-30-137/dp/B01N8X0GQY

 

Thank you for the links! I was expecting the cable to be as expensive as my VAG-COM cable I use for my Golf R32 which brand new was around $300.

I'm pretty savoy on computers so I'll give this a try and try to navigate the software. Very much appreciate the info.

I'll report back as soon as I get this new cable

 

Cool, here's to assuming you have Windows 7, 8, or 10 and 64bit. If you need any help let me know.

 

Yep, all of the above. Thanks again.

 

you can get the abs codes by jumping 2 points on the obd plug.search on here.i've got the same problem on my 09.shows the RF abs sensor.changed it,didnt help.replaced the short pigtail from the wheel to the upper plug.still no go.it only acts up once in a while.

 

Typically ABS codes have to be reset.. Just replacing a part will not clear the code, if it fixed the problem.

 

Still waiting on my new cable. I prepped one of my laptops with the info in the link provided above so just waiting patiently and driving extremely careful until then.

Will report back once I finally get the codes that I need to figure out exactly what's wrong.

 

I was lucky enough I could just turn off(plus not having a-trac/auto lsd) my ABS to make sure it didn't do anything crazy.

 

Thankfully nothing crazy has happened, just the lights on the dash. Seriously trying to avoid slamming the brakes by keeping more distance than usual and only driving to and from work. It gives me more excuses to drive the Wife's new TRD Pro 4Runner anyways

 

Checking in. Still driving to and from my jobsite but nowhere else. If I need to run errands I drive my fun car (VW R32).

Have not had a chance to use my cable due to pulling long hours all this week at work but plan to use it tomorrow. Going to go over one last check of the software install with the cable and then get busy figuring out which wheel speed sensor is bad. Fingers crossed that's all it is.

 

Alright, looks like I found my wheel speed sensor that is bad.

I've attached a picture I took from my phone of the laptop screen via TechStream. Below is what it stated on screen if it's hard to read:

Code: C0215
Description: Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit




Apologize for this next question but when it states LH, is that my rear wheel speed sensor on my passenger side? Or is it viewed from the drivers seat so "driver's side" rear wheel speed sensor?

Many thanks to @Sandman614 for the links to purchasing the mini-VCI and instructions on software setup.

 

Took another screen shot actually from the laptop this time and it appears its the Rear Left wheel speed sensor. The Values RL Wheel Speed are reading 0 for two blocks compared to the other 3 Wheel Speed sensors that are showing a value of 68 or 69.

 

Awesome, glad you got it up and running. It's as you sit in the driver's seat.

 

Wonder what happened to the Chev and travel trailer you passed?

 

They got out late that afternoon and/or the next day. Storm caused the tide to come up so high they had to wait it out.

 

Part is ordered. Was going to use rockauto but the shipping stated I would receive it by 6/29........

For the same price, same brand of part, I'll get it Tuesday via Amazon.

QUESTION: will the abs code and dash lights clear on their own once the sensor is replaced, or so I need to use tech stream to clear the code? Of course I will have the battery disconnected while removed and installing the sensor.

 

I believe ABS codes have to be cleared manually. While "safety first" is good there isn't a need to disconnect the battery to unplug and replace the sensor, just don't have the key in the ignition.

 

Attempted to clear the ABS light last night via TechStream but it immediately came back up. Good news is my sensor arrived today so i'm headed home in a little bit to swap it out.

Fingers crossed this clears up the issue once and for all. Will report back tonight after swapping out the sensor.

EDIT: I read my email wrong. Part doesn't arrive until tomorrow but was supposed to arrive since it was ordered Sunday via Amazon prime. When this happens with Amazon I just call to report it and they give me an additional month of Prime membership before it auto-renews.