What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

30,000 is pretty steep. Still an old truck with a small motor and small axles on leaf springs. I wouldn't pay that much. Probably close to what he has into it. Can find cheaper ones so I don't see it selling. On average. Sasd tacomas go anywhere from 14k-20k that are clean with a straight body.

Of course saying that is probably close to what I would ask for knowing what I have into mine.

 

And then you can find 80s and 90s Toyota's with a straight body and lockers and 37s for less than 10k.

 

I have no doubt that it's capable. I figure the price was along that line or the hope a wealthy oilfield guy wanted to get into crawling.

 

He must not know much about it if he says there's a 3RZ in there. I can't imagine one going out of their way to swap a less powerful and reliable engine in place of a more powerful and very reliable engine which is the 5VZE.

 

It started life as a 4 door auto prerunner. The base engine in this is the 3rz.

 

Probably, but I know in my town (highly dependent on the oilfield) the logic is the more you spend the better its got to be.

Other than when you lift trucks. Blocks only...

 

Upgraded from the stock stereo to a new Kenwood with aux & USB inputs.
About $100 and 45 mins is all it took.

 

Repainted the fender flares and grill a couple weeks ago




Anyone else love Bar Keepers Friend? Works wonders on chrome. Those inevitable rust spots cower in fear of BKF and disappear with minimal effort.

 

Ha. Those are the affordable bender folks in Dubois. Nice.

Over priced and wishful but cool

 

Front end refresh. LR UCA's, poly LCA bushings. Cleaned up surface rust.

HOWEVER. I have discovered that my aftermarket CV doesn't articulate nearly as well as the OE Toyota one. The driver side binds on the CV and can't make use of the additional travel from the new UCA's.

 

Got new reman cv's. is there a trick to pushing new cv's into the front diff? I fiddled with them for like 30 minutes before I could get it to seat all the way into the diff. Does it have to do with the c-clip?

 

I belive so, my Napa ones were easy going in but a crazy difficult coming out.

 

Usually I think I do the opening of the c-clip down and use the CV like a slide hammer and it pops right in.

 

Its pretty well know aftermarket CVs bind sooner then oem. Also aren't as strong. Tend to pop easier then oem, partly due to the binding.

Give it a good smack. More then you'd think. A big plastic mallet is better then a rubber as a rubber will want to bounce back more.

 

I have this one complication.

I am running a trutrac lsd in the front and it won't accept an oem CV on the driver side. It only fits aftermarket ones. The splines on the oem cv are not long enough and it does not seat far enough inside the lsd for the snap ring to seat.

Weird, I know. I'm going to try and find my old cv and get it on a lathe so I can fix this issue.

 

What shocks do you have? They'll probably be your limiting factor on droop. Put them in and see if your CV still binds.

 

Old SAW's in standard travel length. I was hoping to install extended travel kings to make use of the longer travel from the LR UCA's but will not be able to unless I sort out my cv issue.

 

My bad, for some reason I was thinking of the 3.0 V6 from the earlier Pickups that was a bit of a nightmare.

 

Emailed Front Range, still nothing new.

 

Installed Camburg UCA's this weekend...