Official Tennessee Thread

There's numerous things here to consider when actually buying a breaker for your winch that may or may not make this the correct sized breaker.

If you don't give a fuck, stop reading this now .....

Take a typical 10k winch. That winch will have a full load capacity rating somewhere between 360A - 380A. That's with a 10k load on it. Obviously everything lower then that will pull less amps and have a specific percentage drop something similar to:
10k lbs - 380A
8k lbs - 280A
6k lbs - 240A
4k lbs - 200A
2k lbs - 120A

Armed with that knowledge, you go looking for a breaker. Let's use this specific breaker. The charts in the pic i posted are important. Look at "Typical overload trip time data" table. What those numbers are telling you is the breaker, with a rated capacity of 200A, will trip in 40 seconds with a 400A (200%) load. And you can figure out the rest of the table based off that info. So you should expect at 380A to be able to hold that trigger solid for 45 seconds, or something close to that.

So you think "Well that's fucking plenty. I never pull 10k pounds and I never hold the button that long so I'm good." The other thing that needs to be considered is temperature derating. This breakers maximum temperature efficiency rating is at 77°F which means at 77°F, there is no temperature correction. If it says it holds 400A for 40 sec then that's what it holds. But as the temp varies, so does the amperage rating.

Look at the chart "Typical ambient temperature correction factor" and go to the column of 77°F current rating and you will see it's a 1/1 correction factor. Go down the scale to cooler temperatures and that factor changes to where for the same 40 seconds, instead of 400A @ 77°, you can now hold 464A @ 0°. Moving the opposite direction though would put you at 312A @ 150° and so on with the rest of the chart. Things like where the winch is located (good air flow vs heat soaked), is the housing dry or wet, what's the humidity level, how good is the grease inside, how old is the motor, etc .... should all be factored into ambient temperature ratings.

To sum it up, yes, this breaker will work for most situations but with a 10k winch, you can exceed it's limit.

 

good info, we did similar calcs when we decided on this one. do you research, and buy what you think will work best for your situation

 

... How did you set yours up?

 

One would almost think you mess with electricity for a living...

 

TL;DR

Whats the biggest tire I can fit on stock suspension without rubbing tho?

 

Can I fit 33's without a lift?

 

yes

 

I can't take credit for it. When I started looking I found this article by @ComeUp winches
http://comeupusa.com/2016/01/how-to-choose-the-right-circuit-breaker-for-your-winch/

 

sweet, good info nonetheless

 

Will a 3rd gen grill fit my 11?

 

Will a 3rd gen grill fit my 00

 

Can I fit 37s on 2" of lift? Also I put diesel in my tank and it's smoking now, should I be worried

 

How can I tell my blinker fluid is low? And how do i make people like me?

 

I'm not sure... but you can fit 37s on a 3in lift without trimming. Just don't try to move the truck or turn the wheel! Lol

 

I don't really care to research past what I just did. I just wanted to provide more info to someone who otherwise may have just clicked "buy now" without having a clue what the hell they just bought or why. Because KNOWLEDGE IS POWER!! Haha

 

Power to my winch solenoid comes straight off the battery terminal. In a perfect world, all motors have overcurrent protection of some form. A winch is no different. It would be completely irresponsible, if not downright stupid for a company to sell you a winch without it. My winch came with a 500A solenoid, which will melt down before the motor or my battery. Motors create a huge spike of amperage on startup. Much higher then their rated load capacity. Motors are also built to be able to run a slightly higher amperage constantly, as that chart shows you specific to temp changes. A 500A solenoid is gonna protect that motor and battery from melting during a catastrophic failure to the winch, saving your truck and possibly the winch itself. A breaker will trip and cut off power to the winch saving your truck and the winch. The difference is that breaker trips and as I've shown, depending on the size of the breaker depends on how fast or how often that breaker trips. You're protecting the protection with an upside of being able to cut off power to the winch whenever you want (I don't see a benefit to that) and most likely only having to replace a $20 breaker instead of however much that solenoid costs but with the downside of it tripping when you don't want it to or burning up making you hook the power straight to the battery anyway to use it. I just don't care for the downside and the odds of the winch burning to the ground are slim to none.

I put a comment in there for you people. Unless you care right now about a breaker for your winch, it wasnt worth reading.

 

I have the 4x dom sliders and they were a hellava lot cheaper than what that guys asking.

 

I was thinking about a direct short to ground after a front collision. My battery is capable of burning my rig to the ground

 

Simple.....Don't hit shit