ABS, Brake! & Traction Control lights on

Don't you need to install the sensor prior to clearing the code?

 

Yes, I was just attempting to clear the code with the original sensor still installed after I had cleaned out the contacts on the sensor and and the connector. They were both full of sand.

My new sensor was supposed to arrive today but now will arrive tomorrow and I'll go from there. After installing the new sensor I'll attempt again to clear the ABS fault code.

 

Well when you need something from Amazon it seems to always take longer than you want. When you want something it seems to show up when you expect it to.

My pacakage got delayed again yesterday and didn't show up by 8PM as it stated in the screen shot I attached. They're now telling me by Saturday.

 

Well surprise surprise, my sensor was in my mail box today. Still don't know why Amazon stated it would be Saturday anyways.

I'm stumped now. I replaced the sensor, pulled up tech stream to see the code was still registering. I cleared the code but it immediately came back. I tried a few more times including running the truck while I cleared codes and it didn't help. Please note the lights on the dash never went off and still remain on.

Next I inspected the sensor line for any damage but couldn't find any. I traced the line all he way back to the connect and everything there seems fine and no damage I could see.

Is it possible the sensor they sent is bad? I'm getting close to taking it in to my trusted shop as I am not sure what to Check from here other than double checking fuses again.

 

Will the sensor fit another side? Maybe that would rule out a wiring issue on the problem side, and help determine if the sensor is bad.

Using Techstream, does it pick up any rotation?

 

Dang that sucks. My abs line got caught on a rock or stick in a creek I was playing in, that outer insulation is damn near indestructible. Unfortunately it stretches so if yours got caught/pulled it could have tore the wires inside it. The FSM has values to check the sensor and the wiring/abs ECU with a multi-meter.

 

@TexS4 Not to make you think you're stupid but did you install it on the correct side? 0215 is Left Hand (Driverside). Here is the info for the codes, 0410035 is for a truck with VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM, which I assume you have.

 

That's a good idea. I can pull the sensor from the passenger side and at least plug it into the driver's side to see if that changes any readings in tech stream. I didn't go down the road with the laptop hooked up but I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks for the tips.

I found a Chunk of dry seaweed up near where the sensors plug in so it's possible it's the wiring. These lights didn't come on until 3 days after getting back from the trip so maybe from street driving if there was a stretched wire it finally shorted out? I'll try tomorrow swapping sensors in the driveway to see if that makes any changes on the faults it pulls up. Will keep digging; just tired from today and gotta be at my jobsite tomorrow at 5:30am for a Fire Marshal inspection.

 

Not at all man, I made sure I had the right part asking last weekend upon getting tech stream up and working thanks to your help. I replaced the driver's side wheel speed sensor in the rear. Here is the old one I took out:

 

Have not had a chance to dig into this further. Had a rare weekend off so spent it with my wife fishing, but plan to do some diagnosing tonight and tomorrow. Have a new volt meter on the way to dig into the PDF attached above and check resistance. Tonight i'm going to go through one more time checking all the connections for any possible damaged wires and swap around the sensors from the RL and RR to see if that changes anything as far as trouble codes in tech-stream. Not giving up on this certainly hope to fix it myself over taking it to a shop.

 

Alright, well I'm getting closer to isolating the issue. I unhooked both rear sensors, scanned and as expected, picked up two faults for both. I hooked up both sensors again, cleared DTC's and still got the Rear left (driver's side) wheel speed sensor fault as I would expect.

Next I swapped the sensors from one side to the other and got the same result. Only the Rear Left (driver's side) fault code came up which tells me my new sensor is good. I next hooked up my old sensor and that one worked as well. Thanks to @tomwil for suggesting this idea.


@Sandman614 , I think I have a shorted wire on the Rear Driver's side. I've inspected the line numerous times and cannot find a break anywhere, but as you mentioned in a previous post, the outside is pretty indestructible but the wires inside are not. Since I can't find a break anywhere in the line, i'm going to test resistance tomorrow when my new multi-meter comes in to determine which wire has the bad connection. I'm not sure yet on if i'll attempt repair of the wire or just replace but i'm one step closer and I can return the new wheel speed sensor that arrived last week.

....will keep going, not giving in on this.

 

I love the willingness to trouble shoot! It really grinds my gears when people "just throw parts at a problem". Troubleshooting is a much much better way to learn your truck!

 

Great thread! Keep at it OP, you seem like you're well on your way to solving the problem!

 

I have not used my multi-meter yet but in case I decide to replace the harness I need a little help here figuring out which harness is what from the community. From what I'm seeing under the truck, the Rear Left and Rear Right wiring harness for the wheel speed sensors is one harness that plugs in just above the rear diff. Everything I keep finding online shows rear left harness and rear right harness so thus the confusion.

Here is what I've found on a Toyota Dealer's site. Below is two different part numbers.








If I do a google search, I see parts show up from the local parts stores (Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilly's etc ) which makes me more confused and makes me think this is a dealer only part. Any and all help is appreciated. Will keep updating once I get my hands on my multi-meter.......

 

I believe those are the fronts, they are less expensive than the rear(or I thought it was when I originally looked). I believe this is the correct term WIRE, SKID CONTROL SENSOR
For my sr5 below

 

Thanks again for the info.

I'll need Part# 89516-04060 if I end up replacing the entire thing. I'm leaning more towards this option as a final fix since I can't find a break in the wire anywhere. However i'm going to inspect it all again tonight and with my multi meter see if I can determine which wire it is that's the cause.

 

I replaced the wire on my 09.didnt fix it.i don't think the fronts will swap sides or I'd try that too.

 

Its been a very hectic work week getting ready for an official punch walk at my job site tomorrow so unfortunately when I get home i'm pretty wiped out and have not had a chance to use my multi-meter to check for correct voltage. Below is what i'm using to see what I have at the connector itself that plugs into the wheel speed sensor. If I don't see these voltages then I know for sure the harness has an issue on the RL side. At that point i'll order the new part mentioned above and over the long holiday weekend replace it. Upon getting the code cleared I'll then cut open the old harness and see exactly where the break in the wire was.

 

Confirmed today the RL (driverside rear) connector is not getting any power with my multimeter. The RR (passenger side) is getting power. See pictures below. I wiggled the connector, wiggled the wire to see if I could get anything to read but there must be a break somewhere in the line on the driver's side inside the sleeve since the readings stayed at 0.0.

At this point I'm gonna replace the harness which is for both sides. Part is $130 locally or if I get it online it's $90 plus shipping. I'm off through Tuesday so I'm strongly considering just picking up the part locally from the dealer unless somebody can confirm I can pick this up at a local parts store. When I called a few places (Autozone, etc) they couldn't confirm they had it.


Driver's side rear (RL)


Passenger's side (RR)

 

Not meaning to discredit your work but your meter is set to 200v AC(wavy bar), more than likely the sensor should be checked with it set to 20v DC(flat bar). The readings will more than likely still show the same but with correct voltages, somewhere between 7.5-12v when grounded to the frame.