Supercharger Quick Change Pulley

Cylinders 5 and 6 run reduced timing in order to compensate for the fact those cylinders run hotter. I do not remember where I read about cylinders 5 and 6 running hot but I was aware of what you stated. They are good engines, you just have to be savvy when it comes to modding them and being boosted, much like almost every other engine.

 

Both strategies are employed.

 

It's a good way of quenching the additional heat being generated. Any suggestions on how to combat that? It's so damn hot out right now where I am that my life can't even think.

 

Subbed!

 

Keep it rich and keep coolant temps down. One reason that I have a massive radiator with dual SPAL fans, and a 160º t-stat.

Non Darton sleeved engine owners, in hot climates, will benefit best from a 170º.

 

I have arrived with some excellent news.

I took some measurements of the old 3.0 stock steelie pulley I kept and compared them to the new quick change pulley hub. They are as follows:

New pulley hub OD width (Most important measurement!):
1 13/16"
Stock 3.0 OD width:
1 13/16"

New pulley hub length:
1 1/16"
Stock 3.0 length:
1 1/4

Design: Stock 3.0 pulley/ new pulley
5 rib

Now there is one thing which I am not accounting for here which will play as a factor at time of the hub being installed, the back of the hub which seats at the very back of the shaft (if you are looking at it dead on) is raised compared to the stock design. This factor may be in play in order to take up for the overall 3/16 length shorter the hub is vs. the stock pulley length in order to allow the pulley to sit at the same serpentine belt offset that the stock pulley sits at, which is supposed to be .4". Theoretically, if what I believe is correct, at the time of belt install, this will allow the new pulley to line up perfectly with the rest of the idler pulleys and crank pulley.

EDIT: Just checked it. The hub face lines perfectly center at the middle of the middle of the old stock pulley while it would be a dead even match at the bottom out once all the way in the shaft. This will allow perfect center at the time of the bolt on pulley's installation. We are good to go!

I went ahead and took several pictures so you could see the stock vs new pulley and hub differences. The good news is that after taking these measurements, I determined this hub design will allow for an easier press on which will require substantially less pressure on the shaft and install tool than what the URD pulley's have (You almost feel like the threads which screw into the shaft are going to break as you press it on, and sometimes, they actually DO). In layman's terms, the chances of you breaking the threads of your install tool inside of the shaft during install due to extreme pressure during press on is now minimal. Being that the hole of the hub is machined perfectly, where as supposedly the URD one is machined as well, but then uses a match to size drill bit drilled through it to put it at exactly the size it needs to be.

What I am saying in short is that this install will be CAKE and require minimal effort to install, similar to the stock steelie press on size compared to the press on URD pulley which requires baking or boiling the thing in order to allow the hole to expand followed by a very speedie timed press on before it shrinks and will not allow anymore movement. An ace in the hole all around for my research! Anxiously awaiting to install this awesome setup in the coming days and start having some fun!

2.5 vs. 3.0 size comparison



OD width's of hub lined up to stock pulley width (don't mind the debris on the old pulley):



Shots of belt wrapped around pulley:





Belt side by side to new pulley profile:



BTW, they come direct from Pulleyboys with a black pulley/ silver hub as a default.

 

What sort of radiator are you running anyways? I remember seeing you post about the possibility of either custom ones being built for us 2nd gens, or one already premade for a different vehicle which fits ours.

 

Ok, I have question. I presumed these were keyed- what is preventing this thing from rotating on the shaft or is that reason for the press fit. No locking bolt? In other words if it is easier to put on- could it lead to spinning on the input shaft?

 

I was waiting for someone to voice concerns over this. No it will not spin easier on the shaft nor is more likely to. It is not keyed. The hub is a press on just like the press on pullies. The only difference here is that you have a much quicker change out time over press on designs, and a simple allen tool is all you will need once the work is done to swap out pulley's from there on out. The stock pulley believe it or not comes off fairly easily and is easier to press back on compared to the URD pulley because it is machined to be the right fit, unlike the URD pullies which are machined, and then supposedly have some sort of XL custom drill bit run through them to make them "the perfect size for press on." Trouble is, for whatever reason, they all go on too tight cold, which requires you to heat them up by boiling them in water, or baking them. You may refer to the instructions on their website if you would like.

Regardless, that information alone tells me that they are not the same OD width as the stock pulley. Have you ever heard of a stock pulley spinning freely or slipping on the shaft? No you have not. Because they are press on, and unlike URD pullies, they are machined the correct size to be able to press back on if they are ever removed, without the chance of seizing mid install or causing the bolt of the install tool which threads into the shaft to snap because they do not have ridiculous amounts of pressure being exerted onto them.

You are more likely to hear a story of a belt slipping on the pullies because they have either stretched, or something else is going on as an underlying cause.

I hope that makes sense.

 

As long as the new hub has enough friction to overcome the blower resistance- all is going to be well. Appreciate you allowing us to tag along on this journey of exploration.

 

I have no doubt that there will most definitely be enough friction for the hub to overcome the resistance being applied to it. Remember however, the blower parasitically does not draw a whole lot of horsepower from the engine itself. That in itself tells you that the latest gen 5 roots blower being made by Eaton which is the one we are sporting is not only very efficient for a roots design, but also very well designed and thought out in order to be so.

Stick around, results are to come soon! If this works out well, which up to this point I see no reason as to why it will not, I would be very happy to see a good majority of the blowers anonymous group of Tacomaworld to make the switch as well so they can start to enjoy other tuning and modification areas of their setup.

If it does work and I end up getting a lot of interest, I will (much like the carrier bearing mod) push for a group buy on this company!

 

Ron Davis radiator. I worked with them to make a drop in radiator for the 2nd Gen Tacomas.

 

Guess who's back?!

Final update:

I am pleased to announce for those following that the mod is complete and went through without issue. I am now running a 5 rib Qwikchange pulley system, 2.5" pulley and currently boosting on 9.5 psi on a 92* F day. I'll probably hit 11 or 12 on a cold day.

What I initially thought was that they idler pulley right below the blower pulley to the right was off center, but after looking at other setups I have found that what I am looking at on mine vs everyone else's is the exact same. No additional mods are needed to make this system work unless you go down to a 2.7 and below. You may need to get a size down smaller belt. Dayco PN: 5PK1765 otherwise, the chance of boost loss due to belt slippage exists.

EDIT: Oh and one more thing, My initial thoughts about the hub being pressed into the bearing. It went on tough, as it should, but went on no tougher than the force it would take to press on the stock 3.0 steelie pulley. With saying that however, do yourself a favor and coat both the shaft and the hub with your favorite color anti seize grease. Good insurance policy to make sure things don't freeze up and go on a hair easier.

Enough talking. Pictures!!!





That is all I got for now. I was too busy installing it and getting my hands covered in anti seize. As you can see the pulley and hub still have it on it.

Excellent mod! Worth all the time spent searching and the burning of my skin cutting the snout, and all the fun I will have with this now. Time to play.

 

Great job! Amazing how it all worked out. Now time to put it through its paces

 

Nice! What fuel system and tuning mods are you running to support it? Do you have the 7th injector?

 

If you knew me personally you will know that will be happening very quick. I already gave a few stomps and accidently burnt out on the way home.

This thing winds up WICKEDLY quick now!

Well... I am not running the 7th injector, and I am running an AEM 320LPH green top fuel pump. I am not sure I would like to divulge out the rest of the info due to an uproar of chaos which may ensue. Lol.

I will tell you that I AM at sea level elevation though.

 

Still stock internals I'm assuming?

Still in package. Quick change pulley looks like something I can do while waiting to gather up parts for install

 

Stock internals my man. If you want my advice, wait out until you mount the blower to the engine. The amount of force required to pull and install pulleys and now, hubs (I love knowing I can say that factually now )
is too great for two guys to do while the blower is on a bench due to the location of the boost bypass valve in the rear's location. It slightly hangs down past the blowers base. Start gathering your parts necessary for the pulley install and when it comes down time for gametime you will be ready.

 

Interested to see if the smog shop will say anything about your pulley or if they will even notice a difference... 2.5'' pulley that is craziness, if you are willing to say are you still on the trd tune? I need a smaller pulley in my life

 

I'd like to say but I am not going to. Smog shop won't know the difference from their heads and their ass. They definitely will not be willing to, nor are authorized by the state to start to remove belts and start measuring pulley ribs with calipers either during the inspection. I'll just add a touch of blue paint pen mark like factory has when the rest of the grease flings off to make it look a little more "official."

Lucky for me I also have my own in house smog tech at my work, even though he knows my junk is illegal as shit right now I will tell him to pass me or else I'll bog him down with shit work for the rest of the day.