What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

He said he's got a j shift and not push button, is that still the add actuator?

 

That's awesome, man!

Toss up a few more pictures if you have em!

 

I think it is, but as a J-shift guy who should know this for sure, I'll wait for someone smarter to chime in.

 

Pics aren't that great. It was too damn hot to linger for long taking pictures. It was so cool up there though. Never been in a spot like that before.

 

What do you mean about checking for continuity. I should mention it's a j shift too. I honestly don't know much about this stuff lol

 

If it is a jshift then likely the tcase is engaging but you light won't come on if with your tcase 4wd sense switch is broken or if your add isn't engaging.

 

Despite all the new rear end parts, my ebrake is still weak. The ebrake on this truck has always been weak.

I have the brake shoes adjusted to the .5mm of contacting the drum.

The shoes and hardware are new

The primary e-brake cables, bell cranks were replaced during the frame campaign two years ago

I don't know if the small cables have stretched or if I'm missing something. They are located in the channels on the backing plate.

I can damn near tighten the main cable until it bottoms out so that's not a solution.

 

Since your drums and shoes are new have you bedded them in yet. Might not reach full strength until a few good heat cycles.

 

Ordered 5100's all around and ome 880's this morning, in the market for some leaf springs now. I plan on running the bilsteins at 0 or the next notch. Picking up a black shell to match my truck tomorrow finally and got the silver snug top listed on Craigslist. The money pit is being dug

 

This is possible. But i found my issue was different and much more silly.


I have a J shift and my 4wd also would act up and cut in and out. Thought it was a vacuum leak(my ADD diff is vacuum not electric) but it turned out to be the the main 4wd relay.

This relay is under the passenger side kick panel. Give it a good whack and see what happens. The cover is easy to pop off with a screw driver and you can see if the contacts are dirty(obviously do this with it unplugged and unbolted from the truck). All that was wrong with mine.

If that is not the problem, your issue will be the ADD actuator at the diff. In which case you'll want a volt meter to check that it is getting power when its suppose to. If the wires are good, the solenoid motor could be fried or need cleaning.

 

Sounds good, thanks, Ill check all that tomorrow. As long as nothing is blown up I'm happy.

 

If something was blown you'd be able to tell

 

My first gen sr5 and a turd sr5 at the boat ramp

 

That's strange. Mine was always weak but I adjusted the cable to get the right amount of clicks and it's pretty tight now. How many clicks do you get out of the e brake lever?

 

Changed out my clutch master and slave cylinder with new Aisin parts from Amazon. Clutch feels so much better. No creaking anymore. I think my slave cylinder was creaking. I thought it was the fork so I kept lubing it but it never went away. It's all quiet now. Also noticed my old master cylinder reservoir is like 1.5-2" smaller than the new one. Strange. There was gunk in the bottom of the old reservoir. I went way too long between fluid changes and flush.

New master

New slave


Nasty old reservoir.


Also, has anyone ever adjusted the clutch pedal? I set mine so that the pedal is all the way up at full bump to allow the cotter pin to be inserted. Think this is how it should go..

 

Relocated my winch solenoid. I lucked out and was able to use this aluminum bracket I picked up for another reason from a local industrial hardware supplier for about $5.

The slots were the same width as my license plate bolts. Made a template for the screw locations and drilled them out. Worked out great. Now I just need to wire the damn thing up.

 

Looks nice, the actual solenoid unit inside that little box is well sealed, mine has been hanging out on the fender without that plastic cover and still works great. How did you deal with the clutch lever?

 

I have to bottom the lever to get any kind of holding power and the main cable adjustment is 2/3rds of the way cranked in. The truck stops fine, but the weak ebrake has plagued this truck since day one that I got it. I'll drive it for a few weeks and revisit this issue, make some adjustments again before pulling out the parts bazooka.

I'm just happy this thing is not tore apart anymore.

 

Maaaan your truck.... no rust....


My e brake is completely useless ATM.... chain slipped and destroyed the cable...

 

Got a guy wanting to trade an all pro apex front bumper with a winch for a factory one and some cash trying to decide if I should buy a factory bumper and trade him or not..