3rd gen Transmission Cooler Upgrade

@Z50king
So as far as the mount kit I cant remember if it was a Derale or Hayden brand. It was what ever was cheapest at the time. I ordered on Amazon. It shouldn't really matter what kit you use as long as it comes with the 4 slotted pieces of metal. Like this

You could even pick up some slotted strap Steel at home depot and make your own but it's probably cheaper to just buy the kit. I reccomend you stay away from those 2 piece zip tie kits. They are designed to mount the cooler directly to the AC condenser/radiator and risk damaging your radiator.

The cooler has two 3/8" barbs for hose connections. There are no AN fittings that screw in and out. The cooler has fixed barbs protruding out (less potential for leaks). It comes with about 3 feet of 3/8" inner diameter rubber oil hose. You will need to buy another 3 foot section (if you follow my method). Don't buy rubber fuel line. It looks similar and will work but wont last as long as oil hose. Go to AutoZone or where ever and ask the guy for 3/8" oil hose. Allot of the time it comes in 3 foot precut sections. If they don't have 3/8" you can use 11/32" hose without any problems. This what it looks like.


The Toyota WS ATF has a wide mouth bottle so you need the gallon pumper. Unfortunately that stuff is a little pricey and $12 a quart sounds about right. A couple quarts should do it. When you're ready to add fluid just preload a full quart into the trans before you start the truck and wait for it to warm. This will make it so you wont need to add as much when you hit 113°. Also dont bother trying to figure out the volume math. It's a mystery how much ATF Toyota actually put in the trans in the first place. Mine was asymptomatic but still a half a quart low....another reason I'm glad I added the cooler.

Here are a few pics of the trans cooler mounted. I just took these so the grill assembly is on. It'll look a little different since I have the fan attached to the cooler.

Bottom of the cooler attached to the already existing holes. You can see here I also used some rubber washers to reduce vibration.

Top down view of the top of the cooler mounted. You can see two 90° bends in the mounting straps. This is to make up for the approximate 1" difference between the bottom mounting location. I Used a bench vice but you should be able to bend those mounting straps fairly easily over a table edge or with some pliers. I painted them black before mounting.

Close up passenger side. Remove the radiator mount bolt and position the bracket here, re-attach the bolt.

Close up drivers side. Remove the hood latch bolt, position bracket and re-attach bolt.


Leave all the bolts loose until you have all your mounting locations aligned. If you have difficulty getting the slots on the brackets to align with the mounting locations on the truck adjust your bends or use a drill to make the proper hole on the bracket. I didn't need to do any drilling but I could forsee a misalignment.

 

I just went to Pep Boys to buy a bunch of air filters for my wife's car because the Purolator is half the cost of everyone else...

Looked at the transmission cooler section and they had a few 678s and two 679s. I was going to buy it there for a few more dollars but all the boxes had been opened and taped shut. I didn't feel like getting something that had been installed and returned or missing a few parts...

Dang

 

It's happening....
Finally got to add the cooler following @Lord Humongous ' footsteps and super informative handy guide. I opted for a smaller unit and a filter. Rather than starting another thread, I confirmed prior to just adding another write up in his thread for another option.

Parts used.... the majority of the items I used was purchased from Amazon, so it would be an easy way to source for everyone. The hardware, some spacers/ washers, and tools are my existing stash.

Mocking up placement

Had to use a step drill bit to create slightly oblong holes on the mounting flange of the cooler to align it properly to the top existing holes of the radiator core support.


Cutting hoses to size and sorting out filter placement.

Filter is secured from one end with an insulated wire loom clamp, while the other end is secured to the vertical support bar for the hood latch. Not sure if it's clear enough.


Topping off with ATF additive gearchruncher mentioned in another thread


Checking for leaks and done. Final inline filter placement viewed with grille on. Went for a somewhat "factory stock" look using some Honda hardware I had sitting around.


Shopping list:
ATF additive

$21 Lubegard 63016 Platinum Universal ATF Protectant, 15 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006NIB6U6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extra Hayden 11/32" hose

$21 Hayden Automotive 106 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose 3/8-IN Diameter x 4.5-FT Length

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HE6H3S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hayden 677 cooler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C3F3SO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
WIX 58694 inline mag filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014BCFC0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Back straps (I painted black) for securing the the transcooler to the lower core support.

$15 10 Pack 10.5" Metal Mounting Back Strap Universal Stereo Door Secure Bracket

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ57NPM/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks @Lord Humongous for allowing me to update in this thread to keep things related to 3rd gen trans coolers.


A big update/ EDIT:
I called the tech support folks over at Hayden based on a post from Z50king asking about mounting positions and they verified that the manual has not been updated for the plate and fin cooler and it should be mounted in a horizontal configuration with the inlet on top and the outlet on the bottom of the rapidcool units.
Here are some pics of the rearranged recommended mounting position after all done and remounted. What a mess of ATF dripping everywhere.

Ended up buying the Hayden mounting kit with the brackets and additional insulated tubing clamps.

$22 Hayden Automotive 253 Metal Mounting Bracket Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Autom...rd_wg=04gTc&psc=1&refRID=19EXQW6Y676EKTP52M20

Ordered some of these rubber reinforced washers also. I'll be pulling the cooler off again this weekend to drop them in. Will rivet the new extension tabs on the cooler also during this time to keep the cooler from moving around from using the single bolts.

K&N 81-0151 Washer-rubber , Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E28C54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Awesome write up and pics. I can easily see what side of the original cooler to run to the new one etc. About how much total fluid did you have to add to get it back up to full ? Also , it looks like you fed the new fluid in from the outlet side of the new cooler , did this bypass a check valve that way ?
Edit , I cannot tell from the description of the cooler if it has a thermostat valve for warming up trans fluid from cold as others do .

 

Thanks, I just followed lord humongous as far as line routing. I just ran my filter different. His filter routing maybe the safer way to go, but I'll carry a spare piece of hose and a straight barb fitting with some clamps as a spares kit. If you look at your hose routing on the back side of the main coolant radiator, you'll see the factory output (just been cooled by radiator) line coming out of the radiator and into the external factory trans cooler. There are a total of 3 coolers running it this way. I left the factory external plate trans cooler in-line for ease of swapping back for that "just in case" issue with the dealer. I doubt the redundancy and extra fluid volume will hurt the system. Lord Humongous and I have routed our lines after the factory cooler as he explained in his very first post. The output line after the Hayden cooler goes back to the trans if you follow the hard line routing.

I used 8.5 oz from that bottle (15oz) seen in pics (measured on scale just before I responded) to prefill (prime) the system and went under the truck to do the normal trans fluid check "without techstream" afterwards. It all drains back down anyways it seemed ( after the filter), since the cooler is at the highest point. I also chose to fill from the return side of the new cooler as it has the filter on the feed side to slow the amount of drain back into the radiator and trans. I didn't want to overfill the trans doing it this way. I could hear the air bubbles trying to bleed off as the ATF went through the filter while pre-filling and that's when I stopped pumping. The original cooler was empty when I pulled the hose for extending. Didn't notice a check valve or thermostatic valve (didn't say on the packaging or generic manual either) anywhere on the new cooler itself. Maybe it's called this "Flow path design" as Hayden calls it? This one (677) is part of their "Rapid cool" lineup.

I cleared the end tanks by blowing into the push-in orifice tubes to clear remaining manufacturing debris that might have gotten trapped inside. I did just get some flaky paint bits ( the caps are sliced to prevent air lock I believe as they both had slits in them) from the protective caps they used to keep paint from entering the tubes during their painting process.

I filled with a partially opened Toyota WS ATF that was partially used, so I was not able to record the amount used there. Didn't take much at all and it was getting quite dark when I was wrapping up, so I was not able to get pics during the proper checking process. I had previously done the the ATF check and found my system was initially low a few months ago.

Edit: drove 24 miles to work and all is good. No leakage and the cooler was amazingly cool to the touch. Didn't have a temp gauge or anything to check with.

 

I read the B&M paperwork they have on their site and it states to run the cooler with the inlet and outlet on top so air pockets don't get trapped on top and make the fluid only flow across the bottom. Have you thought of this? Does the Hayden paperwork mention anything about this?

My stock cooler is always ambient temperature after driving around town. The thermostat is mostly closed and not much is going through it, anyway

 

The included Hayden generic instructions say it can be mounted horizontally or vertically, but not specific about which way the ports are facing.

So I called Hayden's tech support about this for the plate and fin style coolers and was told to mount it horizontally with the supply going in from the top and return out the bottom. Looks like I'm going to go and buy some extra hose and rearrange the cooler.
This is strange as I've seen and worked on a few cars with factory installed plate and fin coolers mounted with the ports facing down without issue. Even the last of the 2nd gen tacos including the 3rd has the ports facing down.

 

Thanks for calling. I didn't think about calling them directly. How much harder is it going to be to mount it like that?

Did they say anything about mounting it with the inlet and outlet on top?

 

No worries Z50! About the ports, I did mention it in my post. 2nd paragraph. I called it the supply and return lines. Inlet on top while outlet on bottom.

It's not hard to swap around at all. I got off early today and bought some extra hose and the Hayden mounting kit at Pep Boys. I may or may not use it if my additional back straps work to secure it. I'll post an update in my write-up post when I get it done to keep this thread clean. Waiting for this LA heat to drop a bit. I've got a fan blowing up at the trans with the hood open at the moment, in hopes of getting to it tonight.

Hayden needs to make an amendment to their generically applied manual if their technical group is saying it should be done a certain way. Not a big deal.

Back to your note about temps on your stock cooler from an earlier post. On the drive home last night in LA stop and go traffic for 24 miles, the stock cooler got to a surface temp of 125 and the Hayden got to 109F measured with an infrared gauge. Not necessary for this daily driving. I don't have a scangauge to get internal trans temps. Ambient air was 78F.
Just wait till you tow your toy trailer in the mountains this summer, you'll want the cooler.

 

I'm going to install the cooler and other items before the trailer comes in. It's still 11 weeks out.

I spent years temping RC motors after races and practices with temp guns and by hand so my hand is pretty good between 100 and 200F. I towed 2000 pounds up hwy 62 in 80F the cooler was no higher than 90F. I'm sure it will heat up under heavier loads on longer grades in the heat

Also what is the lube guard for? Are you sure it's safe to run with WS?

Sorry, I'm a researcher. I don't like doing things without research first. This is my research

Also, I can't find your build thread because I'm blocked from viewing your profile page

 

SUPER CLEAN install! Looks great and thanks for posting it up here. That's crazy the instructions are incorrect and have never been updated. I'm curious if you get better performance when you move it. Mine seems to be working correctly and dissipating heat so I may just leave it. I need to research that ATF additive as well. Looking forward to your update.

 

Haha, I don't have a build page. I just add stuff as I go in random threads. Sorry man.
I used to race on-road RC, mostly TCS series. Finished top 4 Nationally last year and almost won a trip to Japan, so I hear you when you say you've got a touch for feeling temps tuning BL motors. That's why I had the temp gauge ready to go.

Gearcruncher seems to really like this Lubegard brand additive and it appears to compatible with Toyota WS. Search his threads, he loves this stuff.
http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-113/LUBEGARD+Platinum+Universal+ATF+Protectant

Thank you! I'm not sure if it'll be any better actually. I've seen many factory setups done the way you have it and they go for thousands of miles without issue. I ended up doing it because my cooler is smaller and no fancy puller fans setup. It'd be a lot of work for you to redo it. Maybe @gearcruncher can chime in on this.

My initial post has been updated in post #104. Good luck for any of those that want to do this on their 3rd gen tacos.

 

I have a temp gauge in my RC bag. Probably needs a new 9volt. Where do I even buy those these days?

With the way you now have it set up in post 104, you're 677 is the same height as the 679? I hope the 679 is just wider and not taller so it won't fit the way you posted. Again, height and width are based on how you have it installed with the ports on the side

I got into 1/10 offroad when my neighbor got back into it. He raced a lot when he was a kid. We both got sc10's and started racing. I was lucky that short course bored me so I moved to trucks where I found a better crowd to race with. He got to local pro level and some sponsors. I tagged a long helping him at the track while I was in college. It was a fun time. He changed from Associated to Kyosho when he got good and I bought lost of his associated stuff. I remember I was so cheap I'd leave at 9am for a day of practice when the track didn't open until 1pm so I didn't have to run the AC on the way there during my summer breaks from college. I'd spend all day at the track several days a week 10am to 11pm, even doing track rebuilds over night and not going home. I got close to the owner and was welcomed there almost 24/7. I pretty much stopped when that track closed down. Their rent was too high. Then my buddy got bored ND and started golfing .i still have most of my stuff. I should go to a practice day

 

I will add that most coolers can be mounted in any position . Line pressure from the transmission will fill all the tubes equally compensating for any air locks . Keep this in mind when purchasing a cooler . Thats one of the top reasons I recommended True Cool as they are an all position cooler and come factory on many vehicles .
http://www.trucool.com/

Here is what they say
Frequently Asked Questions

The Tru-Cool Advantage
What are the benefits of a Tru-Cool cooler over traditional tube & fin designs?

Tru-Cool coolers feature a number of plates, so automatic transmission fluid can flow more efficiently. In addition, you get more live surface area, which delivers even greater cooling power. And Tru-Cool coolers are designed and manufactured to ensure greater durability than you get from tube & fin coolers.

Why does a smaller Tru-Cool cooler work better than larger tube & fin models?

Compared to Tru-Cool, tube & fin coolers are far less efficient, with more dead space that does not add to their cooling power. Tru-Cool coolers are built with a stacked plate design, which puts most of the oil close to surfaces that are in contact with passing air. That’s why Tru-Cool coolers are up to 30% more efficient than tube & fin designs.

Tru-Cool Installation
Where will the Tru-Cool cooler deliver the best results?

If possible, locate the cooler in an area where it will be exposed to ram air and help maximize cooling. Install the cooler in series and downstream of the radiator in-tank oil cooler. This maximizes the heat transfer and decreases transmission warm-up times in colder weather. Most OEM installations are plumbed this way.

How should I mount the oil cooler fittings?

Fittings can be located up, down or sideways. Combine that flexibility with a compact design and it’s clear that Tru-Cool offers distinct advantages that enable quick, easy design.

Which cooler should I use for a diesel application?

The cooler’s fittings should not be smaller than the transmission line, which are often large in diesel applications. Using smaller lines will restrict the transmission’s fluid flow.

Should I disconnect the radiator in-tank oil cooler when I install a Tru-Cool cooler?

Do not disconnect the in-tank oil cooler if you can avoid it. Your in-tank cooler offers additional cooling and helps preheat the transmission. In colder climates the in-tank cooler should never be disconnected from the system.

Additional Tru-Cool Questions
Will installing an oil cooler affect my customer warranty?

It could, depending on which cooler you install. Tube & fin coolers are very flow-restrictive, so vehicle manufacturers usually do not approve of them. LPD coolers, however, are the only coolers currently being used in OEM factory installations. Contact your local dealer for more information.

The fittings supplied do not work with my application. What should I do?

Tru-Cool has supplied fittings for the four most common applications. Compression fittings can be purchased separately from your local distributor. Refer to the following part numbers:

• 735-9139 for 5116 lines
• 735-9140 for 318 lines

Will installing an oil cooler in front of the radiator increase the engine’s operating temperature?

Not normally. An auxiliary oil cooler will decrease the temperature in the radiator in-tank cooler, which in turn puts less load on the radiator. From a total system standpoint, the engine’s operating temperatures should vary little from what they were before the oil cooler was installed.

For the manufacturers that recommend installing the coolers horizontal or vertical , I honestly cant see any difference unless it has something to do with the internal thermostat construction . If the manufacturer of the cooler stipulates it must be mounted horizontal , mount it horizontal . If the manufacturer stipulates to mount the cooler vertical , mount it vertical . For the manufacturers that mention air locking , I am interested to see why they came to the conclusion of mounting their cooler in the horizontal or vertical position ?
On another note : Lubeguard has an excellent line of products . Highly recommended using this additive .
http://www.lubegard.com/C-104/AUTOMOTIVE

 

Thank you @gearcruncher !

Westcoast RC.....
I still have a Kyosho dealer acct through work and two RB6's to beat around , but never really focused with OR.

Yeah, roughly the position of how lord humungous has his 769. However it works out best for your install, good luck! Trucool could be an option for you as gearcruncher just mentioned, for your research.

 

I thought you lived in Arizona near Shane? I guess not. WCRCR is the track I'm talking about. Once they closed, I pretty much quit. I raced at Pegasus a few times but wasn't really into it after that. I still have a stock T4, mod T4, and a buggy I made out of an SC10. Probably have enough parts to build two SC10 at my parents house.

@gearcruncher those trucool coolers look exactly like the Hayden and B&M coolers. They only say how they are different from tube and fin coolers.

 

Amazon has had a really good price on the scan gauge the last several days

ScanGauge SGIIFFP Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges (Frustration Free) , Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VX2NOK2/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

Nice work repositioning the cooler. I'm curious how much improvement you get!

 

One of them is a pan reading and the other is coming out if the tc

 

What are people using to pin their thermostats?

I used a drill bit to pin the thermostat when I checked fluid level, but I'd like something to keep in their this summer: planning to haul some crap up hills. I've looked at a lot of different places: tractor supply store, HD, lowes. I can't seem to find anything besides my drill bit, and don't feel like keeping my drill bit in the t-stat while driving in case it falls out. I guess worst comes to worst, I'll do that and just buy another one for 3 or 4 bucks if it falls out, but I'd like to try something else.