DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

The idea is to put enough fluid in to have overflow when you pull the check plug. The screen is supposed to never need replacing, though I'm planning to replace mine around 100k. Did you use Toyota parts on the filter and gasket or buy an aftermarket kit?

 

Temp check mode & overflow were done with no problems. Used stock replacements.

 

You said you put it into temp check mode and topped it off, I took that to mean that you had to add fluid. Nice job!

 

Gracias

 

OK, I'm still a bit nervous about trying this but I know I need to (preventative maintenance). I have a 2015 TRD OR DCSB with the tow package. I don't understand why if I pull the two hoses off of the tranny radiator (in and out) why do you have to physically pump the fluid in? Why can't I have two buckets, one with clean fluid to be sucked in and the other bucket empty to receive the dirty fluid being pumped out. Would that be the same as a closed system? And, then you would know that whatever amount is being pumped out would be equal to the amount being sucked in.
Don't call me dumb. Just help me understand before I start purchasing everything I need.

 

The return side doesn't suck, it is pushed by the cooler line feed coming from the torque converter. The cooler line simply returns to the pan, the return side isn't hooked to the pump to pull fluid, the fluid is only pushed from the output.

 

Also note that there are several places to pull the hose loose, the fluid flows in a loop, so it's just a matter of if you pull the hose on the side that's coming or going. I like to take the grill out and hook into the aux cooler, I've found that to be easiest for me. The coolers on the newer second gens are a little different that the older ones, on my 07 you hook the drain hose onto the top of the cooler. Then pump the new fluid back through the hose you disconnected from the cooler. If you pump the new fluid through the cooler line hose you don't have to take the transmission fill plug out. There is a breather on top of the transmission to release the pressure when you drain fluid or add fluid (also allows for thermal expansion), so there is no need to take the fill plug out.
@Texas-Shrapnel

 

This is what I did. Made the job clean it manages to flush the factory cooler as well.

 

Thanks you guys. That was a good explanation. I understand that better now.
I just popped the hood to look at the six cooler. I see the two lines that feed the cooler and started to follow them as they go through the wall back into the engine compartment. One of those two lines goes into the side of the radiator. Why would a line carrying gear oil run into the radiator?

 

So the line i marked in blue comes straight out of the aux cooler (out in front of the radiator) and runs into the radiator. Why is this?

 

The primary cooler is in the radiator and must be connected to the auxiliary cooler.

 

That line runs fluid OUT from the bottom of the radiator, into the aux cooler, just so you know. The aux cooler then returns the ATF back in to the transmission pan (you use this line to put fluid back in). If you're directly facing the cooler with the grill off, the return line hose is either at the top (2005-2011) or the left (2012-2015). To flush, disconnect that hose and run some clear vinyl tubing from the cooler outlet to where ever you're flushing it to, like a bucket, then run a line from where you're pumping the new fluid to the return hose.

 

I used a drill pump and connected the hoses here: DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

 

There's a separate cooler for the atf inside the radiator. Google "pink milkshake"....

 

I'm planning on doing this flush along with the pan drop for the first time in my 2010 4.0/V6 4x4 at 52,000 miles. Would this be the right sequence?

1. Drain old fluid and drop pan. If the fluid looks acceptable (not burnt and no big shavings), proceed to next step...
2. Change/clean filter and clean pan. Replace pan.
3. Perform flush

Does this sound right? I'm unclear whether the filter should be replaced before or after the flush.

 

Drain, drop the pan, drop and clean the filter, replace filter, install pan, flush. If you do the filter after the flush, you'll have to drain the pan again and then waste the fluid. I did mine @ 60k and there was very little "stuff" in the filter.

 

That makes sense. Thank you!

 

I would just drain the pan, refill and then flush. The filter is just a screen and doesn't need changing very often. The only reason to remove it is just because you want to inspect it for peace of mind. At 52,000 your fluid will likely be dark, but should still be in pretty good shape. Toyota recommends a 60,000 mile atf change for severe service and 100,000 mile inspection only for normal service.

 

I haven't done any towing but I'm running 285 tires and have done my share of off-roading. My Scangauge II shows my tranny temp in the 180-200 F range, which seems high. That's why I was thinking it might be due for a little early 60,000 mile service. That's good to know about the filter though.

 

Mine runs 130-150° on the highway usually. A little hotter if the ambient temp is over 80° or so. I got my transmission up to 188° towing a while back with the ambient around 75°. Does your scangauge show the pan or torque converter temp? My ultragauge shows both. I use it to check the atf level instead of putting it into temp check mode. I've verified that my temperature is displaying correct and aligns with the temp check mode of the truck.