DIY LCA Bushing Removal and Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4) The Easy Way!

Yes.

$153 Whiteline W53312 Front Control Arm Bushing, Black

W53312 does both arms.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm at 500 miles, no squeaks, no clunks, pretty happy... just gotta replace these fucking uca's

 

Yep, they've been fine. There's really no input anyone will give other than they work fine and are better than the OEM rubber. Only problem someone could have is if they got the wrong part or installed wrong

 

Sub for future use.

 

The hell with factory rubber. Gonna do this at some point.

 

From this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...gy-suspension-whiteline.394935/#post-10912095

Perhaps this this only applies to the 1st gens(??), but it piqued my curiosity/concern during my research, and now I'm wondering if anyone can comment on the quoted issue who has installed the

$153 Whiteline W53312 Front Control Arm Bushing, Black

Whiteline W53312 bushings on their 2nd gen, specifically those who take their truck offroad and abuse it?

I wheel my truck hard regularly, so I want a durable solution that is free from potential alignment issues!

 

Wasn't aware that this was a concern until you posted. I'm not sure what to think about whether this is an issue worth worrying about.

I put in these bushings in December, 2016 and only had the problem of coming home from a wheeling trip with the steering wheel cockeyed once since I did it. Used to be a more regular thing for me. Flattened my cam tabs off road while on stock bushings, so had them bent back and welded for strength just prior to upgrading the bushings. Total Chaos cam tab gussets would be the next thing for me if it happens again with the Whitelines.

 

has anyone used these for the alignment hardware?

 

I used it for a while until Toyota replaced my frame and which came with new LCA's. That center sleeve is plastic and got a little crushed.. Idk if it was from a stupid alignment tech or just from the design.

 

damn that was a quick reply! I should have specified that I am also using the Whiteline bushing kit that @Crom linked in the first post. picture below is the fatter bolt with a plastic sleeve and metal insert for the bushing. this is meant to go into the smaller front bushing. something doesnt look right to me. the plastic is sticking past the metal sleeve insert

 

oh, you must have edited right as I quoted you!! now it makes sense. the plastic will get crushed..

 

If it’s anything like the moog kit, then it won’t last. Some people had problems with the washer rounding out and losing the alignment. I would just go with OEM hardware. Buy everything from a dealer and return what you don’t need, some of your hardware should be useable even if you have to cut.

 

now I just need to get the silly inner sleeves out. A little heat and the runner came right out. Sleeves are seized in there and will require some sawzall action

 

@Crom and/or @EDDO I am planning on rebuilding my LCAs too using Whiteline bushings. My understanding when pressing in the new bushings is the side of the bushings with numbers face outside? Or is it the thicker side bushing faces outward?

 

Did you have any issues using the factory bottle jack? I'll probably have to do this and that's the only jack that I have.

 

Can someone please confirm the

$153 whiteline w53312 front control arm bushing, black

whiteline w53312 bushings will fit my 2013 Offroad? Everything I’ve read here indicates they will, but Amazon is telling me otherwise so I want to be sure before dropping the cash.

 

For those that have their own press at home, and have successfully pressed these in, how strong is your press? I'm deciding between the 12 ton and the 20 ton harbor freight press. Of course I should just buy the stronger one, but it's about a $50 difference and if the 12 can do it with ease, may as well just get that one.

edit: I found my answer in a different thread. I'm just going to get the 12 ton.

 

It bent the base plate and mangled the slip joint connection on the crank rod, otherwise no. But it's basically useless on a lifted truck anyways so I'm not too worried.

 

I’d just like to add my lessons learned since I didn’t see this specifically mentioned in this thread yet.

If the bushing separates from the sleeve, it’s not going to just press through easily. I was sitting there with fire on it for 10-15 min wondering wtf was taking so long. Put the fire out, and took a hammer and chisel and tapped the inner part out.

Second one I had fire on it for 4-5 min and I could tell the rubber separated from the sleeve. On this one I had to take a sawzall and cut off one side, and then the bushing would fall out.

This left the sleeve. What I found easiest was to take my angle grinder and a flap disc and shave off the outer lip. This allowed me to see my sawzall cut of the sleeve easier. Once cut, hammer and chisel and it popped out.

Using this opportunity to reinforce the eye, plug holes, weld bump strike pad, and if I’m feeling frisky, build some lca skids or just weld steel to the bottom to make these beefier.

I’ll show a finished product later, but probably won’t be done until this weekend.