3rd Gen. Tacoma Front, Rear Camera, Navigation Bypass, Homelink, Smartphone Mirroring Mod.

bstrange,
Thank you very much! Your solution looks much better than mine. So that is what I'll use.

As far as the RCA connections not being needed for the all the time camera mod, yes I understand. What I failed to mention was that I like the idea of having an AV option on my screen, so I was going to solder up the jacks and just tie-wrap them in place for future use (I have the parts, and the head unit will be out, all the tools will be handy, so why not?). I think I would still need to cut line 15 anyway, right?

 

Yes sir. you would need to cut 15 and connect the radio side to 11.

 

this looks awesome, Anyone have a link for doing a front camera mod? (getting to that spot on the radio?)you can DM me as well!

thanks,
love this community!

 

One step closer! I've been playing around with ideas regarding converting my coin tray to a place to mount the front/rear anytime camera mod switches. I know others have worked out 3D printing options for this task, but I have access to a 3D printer, and I don't like hoping that a solution by someone else will perfectly fit my needs (besides, us engineering types can't leave anything alone). Here are some "proto-type" examples of what I have come up with so far. The example in the front fits inside the existing coin tray, but I find the space too crowded to properly do what i want (original coin tray shown in the right rear). The example to the left replaces the coin tray completely, but will require removal of the dash panel if I want to make changes in the future. Once I have settled on something I like, I'll do the wiring for the cameras and move on to something else. By the way, in case you are wondering about the big square hole on the right side of each example,,,,,, try to imagine something about the size of your spare key-fob fitting in there behind a plain black cover

 

Great idea I like the way you have the cameras labeled, Keep us updated I would like something like that.

 

I just ran across your schematic again and have some concern regarding SW1. You have the navigation bypass and backup signals tied to the same switch. Anytime you activate the switch the cameras are going to come on and you wont be able to enter navigation info anyways.

The nav bypass is only necessary to be able to enter data while driving and to see the AUX video. The way you have it drawn you wont be able to do either because when you flip the switch its always going to turn on the rear or front camera. That's the way its going in my head any way. not sure if im missing something.

 

bstrange,
Your statement regarding the nav bypass would be accurate if my switches (both of them) were only DPDT on-on switches. However, both of my switches are DPDT on-off-on switches. This allows me to leave either switch in the "off" position. In the instance you referenced, I leave the camera switch (SW1) in the off position which leaves the cameras (front and back) out of the equation, and permits me to do anything to the head unit I want. I can work the nav unit just like normal, or bypass it to do stuff that would not normally be permitted while moving (not that I would do that for safety reasons anyway, because I can't chew gum and walk at the same time). By the way, I completed the installation this last weekend, and I am very pleased with all functions! I still have some improvements I want to do with my 3D printed parts, but that is all "behind the dash" sort of stuff, and has nothing to do with the cosmetics of the installation. I am also a little disappointed with the front camera alignment. I was hoping to be able to see the top of my license plate frame for reference, or at least have the fiducial lines displayed that are available with the rear camera. As it is, there is nothing in my field of view I can use for reference. I will need to 3D print some tapered shims for the front camera to point it down a couple of degrees so I can see some of my front bumper, but that is no big deal, just a matter of time. One problem I did encounter was finding 12v power to tap into. I did find a place that was always on (which I used), but I would really like to find a place that was only on when the ACC was active. There are a number of "un-used" connectors nested in the rear of the dash panel, but I did not see 12v anywhere on them. I also ripped into the fuse box (completely diss-assembled it), but did not find a good place to tap that would not have jeopardized my warranty. What simple solution did I miss?

 

I see. I hadn't considered a on-off-on switch.

It has been recommended to use a fuse tap for 12V. I think you can see that in the beginning of this thread. I've also seen posts from people that don't like to use fuse taps. However I haven't had any luck finding a good wire. I found this statement in another thread but cant confirm. Might be a good place to look at least.

"In all of the connectors under the driver's kick panel you will see a 4 pin connector. It has like 10 or 12 gauge wire in it. The red one is constant."

I've had the worst luck with cameras. The first two I bought were backup cameras so the image was reversed. Dumb on my part. The third I mounted under the license plate. I couldn't see any references as you mentioned and it got water in it almost immediately. Also dumb on my part. I don't know what happened to the fourth camera. The picture was super grainy and looked like poop. I think I fried it somehow. Trying fifth camera this weekend. ugh

whats that on the right of your switch panel?

 

There is a loose connector in the driver side kick panel. It's for a brake controller. I ordered a brake controller cable to give me access to the lines and can tap into that instead of the oem wiring.

$30 Tekonsha 3017 Brake Controller

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004R33UH6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=
Could you please list the cameras that didn't work for you for other people's reference?

 

bstrange,
The black cover on the right side of my switch panel is a "stash spot" that is just about the size of a spare key fob. Not saying that is what is in there, just saying
Istan,
I thought I measured the voltage of the connector you pointed out, but I must not have been careful enough to get a good reading. I did see voltage, but it looked more like 5v rather than 12v. I'll check it again the next time I'm in there, as this would be a much better choice than the one I made!

Thanks!

 

Stash spot eh? I might need one of those. Can you electrify the screws so it zaps anyone that touches it? mwahaha

 

I like the way you think! There are 120Ac outlets in the truck, so there is that possibility . That would certainly merit its own thread

 

I have been “tweaking” my front camera mod over the last few days, and thought I would post what I have found (and done, so far) for others to review. Overall, I like the front camera I selected for the task (

$27 iNewcow Car Front View Logo Embeded Camera for Toyota with CCD Waterproof IP67 Wide Degree (Middle)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2EN5J2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). It is by no means a high-resolution camera, and the field of view should be a little wider for my intended purpose, but for the price I paid, I have little room for complaint. The biggest issue I have is the pointing of the camera. On my vehicle (2017 Tacoma 2X4 extended cab sport package) the “Sport” package hood has a huge (and useless) air scoop that blocks much of my view. I selected a “Badge mount” camera to be as inconspicuous as possible, so there is no “built in” opportunity to reposition where it is pointed. In the stock mounting configuration, the camera observes an area that might be good for a “Go Pro” view of events that are happening in front of the truck, but I wanted this camera to enhance my ability to park in tight spaces (hood scoop blocks critical driver viewing areas). There are no “reference points” in the camera field of view (cannot see any part of my bumper) that aid me in judging where my bumper is (I wanted to know within a few inches). Additionally, there are no electronically overlaid fiducial marks (like the ones you get with the OEM back up camera). So, I have been 3D printing mounting fixtures that are getting me a little closer to what I need from this camera. Thru trial and error, I have determined that in order to see my license plate frame (the front most hard point on my truck), I needed to point the camera no less than 18° down from the original mounting configuration. I have not designed in the desired cosmetics of my solution yet (yes, I do care about that), but at least I have proved to myself that what I wanted to do, can be done (optical/mechanical). I think a 20° shift would be better than an 18° shift (seeing more of the bumper would be a good thing), but I am rapidly departing from the original intent of an “inconspicuous” configuration. The further down I point the camera, the more it looks like I’m trying to give the truck an “Italian nose” (no offense intended). Also, I am approaching the point where the threaded rod that mounts the camera body to the truck grill is at such an extreme angle that I am running out of room to use the opening in the “Badge” where it is intended to mount. I’m not finished yet, but this is where I am to date.

Example of my 3D printed fixture.


Front view 18° down. License plate frame barely visible.


Rear view OEM (just for reference)

 

could you post a pic of the camera view straight from the box? I would like to put in a front cam also, but want to be able to see the license plate frame, at least. Thanks!

 

Would you be up to selling those 18 or 20 degree mounts for the camera you listed above once you have a final product? Or willing to share the file so I can have it printed myself? That is what I am looking for also!

 

Once I am satisfied with my solution, I will share my file with anyone who wants it. The 3D printer I have access to is from where I work, and I only use it when it is available (and only for very small, and quick projects). I can not (will not) sell any parts made on that printer.

 

Fair enough! I have a friend who has a printer that could print it for me with the file. I appreciate it! And BTW, thanks for posting the pics.

 

It looks like that camera is not a fisheye. If it was the license plate would look warped like the rear bumper does. That would give you a much wider view.

 

Example 3D printed parts I did for testing purposes. Printer set on "medium resolution" for faster print time (not pretty but proves a concept). The simple one shown was just to establish an acceptable angle. The more complex one included the proven angle and added cosmetic "skirts". More cosmetic work to be done, but you get the idea.

view from the front


view from the back

 

I have a 3d printer if you care to share the stl. file, Im adding this same camera to my Tacoma soon.