DIY Valve swap for Secondary air injection system P2440 and P2442

I think all the pictures are fixed now, all on the TW server now.

 

See post 56 and make the call to your dealer to verify.

Soon.

 

Thank you for doing this. I'm sure it was a chore, but it will surely help us in the future.

Photobucket sucks!

 

Will do. Has there been a data point where we've seen a dealer pick up the whole repair tab based on this 10yr/100k mile emissions warranty?

 

Damn, I don't know what that thing is at all, shit ain't on my truck...

 

I'll be trying this around or shortly after the 18th. I have the 2441 code (stuck valve bank one) with no limp.
Once done, I will post the results.

 

Andrew, I cannot thank you enough! I bought the part and swapped it out last night. There is no way i would have been able to do this without your tutorial. Many many props to you! You saved me a ton of money

 

Tomwil, this is exactly why I was so frustrated with PB and why I took the time to fix the pitures.
Chad, I apperciate the reply showing that the few extra minutes I spent while doing the swap is helping others. I always look to the forums for fixes and appreciate it when someone else has done a good write up, so I try to do the same when I can.

 

And thank you for the excellent write up!

 

So...found and double checked my extended warranty and should be covered (Yes, my life has been very chaotic lately and I forgot all about it).
I dropped off the Tacoma at 11 today. The service rep called at three hours and advised that it is the secondary air switching valve. I also had an another image that, as figured, was the spiral wire for the steering wheel controls. The rep stated that Zurich, the extended warranty provider, agreed to cover the cost of both!
Additionally, all the parts were in stock.
Currently around 88,000 mi.
They are expected to finished around 5:30.

With all the issues I've heard, it looks like I lucked out!

Sorry I won't be able to add a air valve cleaning report.

 

P2442 code thrown at 81,700 miles. Truck went into limp mode.

Ordered the parts listed in this post to replace the diverter valve in my '12 Tacoma. First of all, thanks for the great write up!

Question is this: do I need to replace the pump also? I took the top off of the pump and fired the truck up. The "fan" (not sure what the part is actually called that sucks air into the pump) spins without any issues and doesn't appear to have any debris in the foam filter or pump housing.

I was planning on replacing the diverter valve first and running the truck for a while. Is this ok to do and then replace the pump later if it throws another code?

Also, does anyone know what the exact size on the M6 bolts are that seem to commonly snap during this fix? I'm not overly mechanically savvy so knowing the exact bolt I'm looking for in the hardware store would help.

Thanks for the help!

 

You should not need to replace the pump if you are only getting those codes.

Until you get a code for the pump I wouldn't worry about it. And I don't think, basing this off normal logic not specific ECU logic, but if the pump kicked a fault it shouldn't go into LIMP mode. But again, I'm not 100% on this.

I don't happen to remember the length of the bolts I got to replace the broken ones. Hopefully someone else can help out here.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Andrew.

I found in another thread that these are M6 x 20 bolts, if anyone else can confirm that?

I'm going to opt to hold off on replacing the pump itself for now. Does it have a specific code associated with it if it fails?

Lastly, in your video I see you left the stock Toyota cap on the intake. Do you think that's a better option if my foam filter still seems ok or switch it out for the "Uni filter mod?"

 

Dude, you're my super hero.

 

Got my valve assembly replaced with the help of this forum and YouTube videos. I'm not terribly mechanically inclined but was able to follow the thorough directions from the TW threads. Saved around $1,500 from what the stealership quoted me. Pump appears to be functioning appropriately. Just need to decide if the "Uni filter mod" is worth doing and removing the foam filter from inside the pump.

 

2012 TRD Sport threw both codes at about 41,000 miles. I used the Torq app and Scan Gauge 2 to clear the fault codes for a week so I wouldn't have to drive around in limp mode. Finally got the part in the mail today and did the install. Thanks so much! The pictures and tutorial really helped. I also did the filter pod mod.

 

Hello I’ve had this same problem on my 2012 Tacoma prerunner. I did exactly what you said to do in this write up with my dad. I bought the parts we did the install step by step up until the very last step which was to clear the codes before starting it up with the new part. My dad just started it back up without clearing the codes and so the CEL and TRAC light remained lit. We cleared the codes by removing the battery for 20 min but after the lights still came back on. Although this time my truck is not in limp mode anymore. I’m able to accelerate like if it’s running normal although the lights are still on. Any suggestions on what i can do to clear them for good or do you have any idea on why they came back on?

 

All your hoses hooked back up? Correctly? I left one off and saw similar after swapping the diverted valve.

 

It sure would be swell if Toyota would step up here. They owned the melting DRL issue, and this one is far more expensive for us to fix.

 

I used the Torq app and

$160 ScanGauge - SG2 II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges , Black , 5"

Scan Gauge 2 to clear the fault codes. The total cost for the app and scan guage was about $30. Since you and your Dad like working on the truck, this would be a good investment! And you already saved over a grand doing that fix yourself.