Brice's NA V6 Build

Nothing a smaller tire or re-gear can't compensate for
And I remember researching Sea to Sky, and hopelessly finding nothing lol. Long gone by the time I arrived.

 

What is your redline curently? If you are still stuck at the stock 5400rpm, I'd keep the stock runners.

 

Took the bottom manifold to a machine shop to get a flange made. The guy seemed nice so hopefully it turns out well. This first one will be steel, then later Im planning to make it out of aluminum.

IIRC the stock redline is 5,800. EDIT: I'm seeing between 5,500-5,800rpm either way power falls off at 4,800rpm
I'm not entirely sure what the final design will be, and whatever I do I plan to dyno test. Currently I have two designs in mind, the main focus of both being to move the TB away from the downpipe of the turbo.

I think my design (if I can create what I want) will flow better than the stock manifold as well, being that it will have more volume (thinner runners and plenum). I also plan on integrating some sort of velocity stack on the upper plenum to further improve flow.

 

3VZ-FE camshafts features: duration 230/230 deg, lift 7.85/7.6mm - 0.310/0.300in. 12 deg overlap
Just found this info, hopefully I can find the 5vzfe cam specs as well.

EDIT:I'm reading from alleged toyota techs that the 5vzfe is more conservative than the 3vzfe cam specs, how much more conservative? I dunno...but soon we will @Empty_Lord

 

IIRC, 5400 you start losing timing; could be 5800 Did you change the stock TB gasket btw?

For a cheap man intake, I wonder if you can mill out the upper plenumto make it one chamber throughout the entire run. Then port out the bottom plenum and polish the runner sides to make a nice even dispersment of air flow...

 

No, but it's on my list.

And I'm sure you could do that, but it would be very labor intensive and in the end the TB would still be right next to the exhaust

 

I've searched through TIS a lot trying to find the 5vzs cam specs but cant find much of anything. I assume that if i were to throw the 3vz cams in it would probably run fine since theyre both the so similar in design and both are "economical" cams, as designated by the F in FE, but i cant say for certain, id love to find me a Test mule engine. (or have my father give me his blessings on testing with his, lol)

 

I found a company that managed to crack the ECU for my Avalon, i am thinking about reaching out to them for the 5VZ ecu when the time comes so i can try and squeeze more RPMS out of the ol girl, i figure 6600 limiter like the 3VZ-FE would be a safe bet, we shall see, need to finish the engine first though

 

Im sure it can rev more than 5,500rpm, if a 454 big block chevy can rev to 6,000rpm I'd bet money our overbore-small displacement V6's can rev to 6600

Could be wrong tho lol

 

Na no doubt it will rev there, but will it make power past that point? i doubt it. Its still not a "performance" cam in Toyota's world

 

True. the 3vz-fe makes peak at 5,800rpm and peak torque at 4,600

From what I understand the extra rpm is the keep the engine in the powerband when shifting.

 

for the most part, but there's a little more reason behind it too, or else they'd have the transmission algorithm shifting earlier with different cams

Will say though, toyotas love to Rev, the 3.5 in my avalon screams at 6500...

 

There is a way to mod the ECU for me RPMs. The issue is the the stock intake and exhaust design, the stock cam timing, etc won't let you make any more power so you'll have to mod those first.

The 3rz-fe does have more aggressive cam timings but you need to do more than just swap out cams. You need to get springs to prevent valve float at the very least. Gadget at URD said that just adding cams actually reduced power.

 

Should of worded my statement better there, you are of course right the stock springs would float if you just swapped the cams. I meant more so that timing shouldn't be affected and the ecu should be Able to run it.
I have the LCe dual valve springs for the Camry cams. Those should be perfect for the higher rpm

 

I should probably do valve springs if I do the camry cams as well.

Plus I should probably do them anyway because of the boost.

 

If your throwing in different cams, springs are a must. The factory ones are pretty soft

 

Yeah I heard they were 40 lbs open pressure, super low.

 

Got dang!

 

Yeah, I wonder what the LCE springs are at open...


Hey you wouldn't happen to know how ball joint spacers affect suspension, would you? Do they limit travel? I wanna lower this thing about 4" front and back and change out my rim/tire combo.

This wont be anytime soon but I'm trying to figure it out now. I'm thinking 17x8 wheels (looking at tundra rims) and nitto 420 29" tires 275/55R17 specifically.


I'm getting a daily driver soon (I hope), something that gets better gas mileage (for college) so I've decided once I get the daily I'm just gonna have my truck be the project. (Not that it wasn't already lol)

 

From the description of my springs "With 75lbs of seat pressure at a 1.400" install height and open pressure of 215lbs (at .450" lift)"

And make sure you get a boring daily... else you'll end up wanting to mod it too.... (look at me, I've modded a friggen Avalon already, man I have issues)