Replace radiator with timing belt and water pump?

Is this a good rule to follow? As far as I know this truck still has the original one in there (190k).

 

Replace it.

The are under $100. the cost of replacing it is about the same as paying for a coolant flush. I don't know anyone who would replace the timing belt with the rad in the way. Might as well swap in a new one.

 

if auto tranny

def replace rad if you are thinking about it. that intercooler is tranny death if she blows an o-ring

rad, and rad cap.

 

Honestly, in all the reading I did in preparing to do my timing belt, this is the first I've heard of replacing the rad "just because"

FWIW, I didn't replace the rad when I did my timing belt a few months back (at 125k miles). There were no signs on adverse wear (evidence of rust, cracks, etc...) so I didn't think it was necessary. The reason you replace the water pump at the same time is because you literally have to take the timing belt off to get to it, so you might as well replace one if you replace the other. But the rad is the first thing you take off no matter what, so it's not going to save you that much time down the road IF your rad goes bad later.

If replacing it gives you piece of mind, go for it. The only time I've ever replaced a rad on a Toyota is my old 86 4Runner, when I was *hoping* that was the cause of my overheating (it would have been a cheap and easy "fix", but turned out to be a cracked block, lol)

While you have everything apart, you should certainly use the time to thouroughly inspect everything, but there are guys out there putting half a million miles on an original rad, so I wouldn't worry about it all that much. As with everything, just keep up on your maintenance and periodic inspections, and you should catch any small issue before your trany explodes...

 

I think you will find there are more reports of original radiators developing cracks along the seam of the tanks. In addition, the reports of "pink milkshake" on automatic equipped trucks is enough to encourage me to change mine.

With all that said, I do kill more rads with blunt force trauma of some sorts on a regular occasion. Birds, deer shit from the road. My radiators seem to never make it to the 100k mark.

I just checked 2 days ago. $62 for a new radiator. Aftermarket, but I think that is a good thing.

 

I'm sure if you look hard enough for what can go wrong, you'll find an example of that very thing going wrong, which could make it appear that those things "happen all the time." Do they? Impossible to tell, really. I contend that most "failures" are more likely due to poor maintenance and not finding small problems before they become large ones (routine inspections), or the fact that we're driving around 15-20 year old trucks.

Even though I hadn't read anything about people replacing the rad as a regular part of a timing belt replacement, I still inspected it quite closely and determined it was fine and slapped it back on.

Like I said, if the extra few bucks gives you piece of mind, go on with your bad self and replace it. But that of course then brings up another ever present debate about OEM vs. non-OEM parts... Reminds me of the guy who accused me of putting him and his family in danger for using non-OEM (moog) balljoints...

That said, I just ordered some new suspension candy (King's and Total Chaos UCAs), and figured while I'm under there, might as well deal with my loose steering and replace the tie rod ends and rack bushings. Then, since I am going to tear apart the entire suspension anyway, I figure I might as well replace the lower BJs (already replaced them ~6 years ago) too, even though they still seem tight and aren't leaking. That extra $100 on BJ's isn't all that much when I'm already throwing $2000 at the suspension/steering. This time, I went 555 parts (OE for many Toyota susp parts) from lowrangeoffroad since I was already getting some other stuff there, too. The extra $20 (compared to the MOOG brand I got before) is made up in the fact I get free shipping, so I figure what the hell...

Anyway, I'm not trying to discourage anyone from replacing the rad when doing the timing belt, just talking about my own cost/benefit analysis that may give a little perspective.

 

I would think it depends on if you already have one of those After Market cheap plastic tank Radiators .

That seem to hate me !!

I keep the Radiator it is now on the Third vehicle with at least 200,000 miles

Plus having a extra new one helps .

Being able to make brackets makes it work across the years

 

Probably not a bad idea if they are reasonably cheap as others have mentioned. Mine has been pretty full of bugs, dirt and other garbage each time I have removed mine. I have taken mine to the car wash to clean it with each timing belt change, but I will probably get a new one next time.

 

The day I got my truck, serpentine belt. Timing belt, water pump, radiator, thermostat and all fluids changed. It pays not to overheat

 

I just finished my TB/WP and put the old rad back in. I looked at the cheap Radiators but would probably go with a Denso for just a bit more.

 

Yeah, Im not really finding any of these 50$ deals that fit my truck, Id either go OEM or Denso (~150$). I dont have a plastic one now.