The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

Mr. @Crom, A couple questions for you...

I'm about to start doing my rear suspension (your posts have been incredibly helpful and influential) and am wondering about the overload spring you removed... don't those help with axle wrap? (and, any updates about how your custom pack has been working out?)

For the next year, at least, i'm going to be running an empty bed except for trips where i /might/ have 3-400lbs of gear so i'll be taking out that 3rd leaf. I can't find any reference to which is the "third..." I'm going to assume from the top of the pack but I just think that's kind of funny.

Got the shim, u-bolt flip, and extended brake lines... and am already running 5100's. Just trying to motivate to repaint the rear axle since it will be nearly bare. Time to get off the internets!

Thanks!

 

Crom doesn't get on much since his family life changed a bit, I'll offer up some help (based on my own experiences) in case he doesn't check his build thread for a while........
I believe Crom put the 3rd leaf back in somewhere, I believe he took it out to experiment with it and ended up putting it back in. Removing it can help make it easier to articulate the rear axle, but may also shorten the life span of the leaf pack since they will be going into a negative arch more often. It may or may not help with axle wrap, until someone would video before and after to see, it would just be speculation, but I don't believe the overload would come into play under acceleration like that, I would guess it would involve the load bearing leaves more.

Yes, you are right, the "3rd leaf" is referenced from the top down exactly like you assumed.

Good luck with your mods, its like 105+ degrees in Socal, too fucking to work on trucks.

 

Thank you! Yes, well, looks like they changed the Dakar spring pack significantly. So I'm scratching my head on that. Argh.

 

@HeadStrong Off-Road posted some details about the new Dakars.

 

Very helpful! Thanks!

 

how well are the moog joints holding up as well as the whiteline bushings?

also how hard is this job? i've read that the LBJ is a PITA to get out and back in. any advice?

 

Most LAPS that have tool rentals will have a ball joint tool that makes it easy. Harbor Freight has a cheap one - which is the same one that O'Rileys rents.

 

there is a whole thread on the troubles of trying to remove the LBJ even with the rented tools
one guy had trouble even with a 30 ton press

 

Have to admit every time we've done it the UCA or LCA was on the workbench.

 

so removing it completely would be best and easier?

 

It will add the necessity of having to re-align the truck again but it may save considerable grief. That's a tough call to make.

 

i would assume just changing the LBJ would need realignment because they do look a little beefier over stock.
also if i were changing the lca bushings then id need the alignment anyway. unless maybe just marking the tab alignment could help get it back close enough

 

Or use a paint marker or finger nail polish and mark your can tabs to re-align it yourself...

 

Yea that will get you back in the ballpark, but if your changing hardware I'd get it realigned. Heck even just a few wheelin trips or enough time bw alignments. That said I have the lifetime plan at Firestone. They hate me cause that's all I do there - get another alignment.

 

I did the white line and moog ball joints on mine in the spring. I also added tc cam tabs and new oem cam bolts. My mileage has gone back up considerably after an alignmentioned on our last road trip. I'm very pleased with it all

 

I had the lifetime. Now I don't even fit on their rack. Lol

 

Did you do it yourself? I'm about to replace bj

 

I just got an alignmenrt few weeks ago and already need another one lol...this will be my 4th in only a couple months

 

Did it with a friend on his. Cheated and used a pneumatic gun to drive the old one out and the new one in.

 

I'm going to be using the impact and the press tool.

Leaving the bushing alone