For those of you with fancy interior upgrades

You magnificent SOB ! I owe you a ZJ.

 

And Colorado is completely full. Unless you wanna buy my house at 25% over market value.

 

yes! great mod, great price.

 

Hondo garage mount. Holds iPad and iphone

 

had to google ZJ....sorry I did.

 

I bought a yeti cup. Fits perfect. You can fit the bottle beside the seat and door on the floor.

 

I put these on my truck and couldn't be happier. I didn't want leather due to the heat in the summer (and cold in the winter w/o heated seats) plus I love how easy these are to wash with wetsuit cleaner while on the seats. Combined with weathertech front and rear, my interior is pretty waterproof.

https://www.coverking.com/seat-cove...over-for-2017-toyota-tacoma-trd-off-road.html

Many (myself included) have been able to buy the full set at Costco (online) for less than $400 delivered.

 

One of the biggest things is sound deadening the roof, floors, and doors, and adding a rubberized undercoating for absorbing sound. You'd be shocks how much nicer a taco with nice sound deadening is

 

I was going to get these but went with the veloci vent instead
I'm not happy at all
The dirt falls through and the seat is getting worn out
How are your seats in the summer
I heard the neoprene is very hot

 

Isn't that something like $150 though?

 

well yeah, but for the holder, mount, ram ball, arm etc. Also didnt see OP posting a caveat to cost.

 

He didn't. I was looking at those the other day. IMHO, $150 is a LOT for a phone mount. lol

 

Not when it holds my phone / iPad and can transition to handlebar of my dirtbikes with a additional mount.

The right mount and usability is worth it to me.

 

yeah the quality and design, for the most part, is totally there. but in NTX there ain't no losing the full A/C vent. i may try and use the phone holding portion with the bar solution tacoflavoredkisses is working on (hope i have that right).

 

My a/c vent still blows plenty cold and hard. It's pretty much a non issue to me frankly.

It's not for everyone. The cost as well wasn't an issue for build quality and versatility.

 

I'm totally green in this area. How do you do it?

 

Its not complicated, but very tedious :/
First, I did the doors. They are easiest and can be knocked out in an afternoon with two people. First youre going to need to remove door panels, they are secured by 2 phillips head screws, 1 in the change pocket, one behind the door handle (use a small screwdriver to pry the plastic plate in there off by sticking it between the back of the metal handle and the side of the plastic plate and gently pry/wiggle it out).

Then youll want to pop off the triangle shaped piece in the window and disconnect the wiring in there, and do the same with the window/lock control panel. I find that for that a plastic trim removal tool is best, theyre like 20 bucks at autozone and have saved me from scratching up/ removing paint several times from little plastic bits

Next, you need to disconnect the door frame from the 10-12 plastic clips that mount the plastic door panel. Again plastic trim removal tools are ideal here to avoid scratching the paint off the inside of your door.

Once those clips are free you can just lift up and pull the panel out of the pocket between the window and the frame that it rests in, make sure to also take a mental note or picture of how the latch and lock cables are arranged so you dont accidentally screw yourself and have to take your truck to the dealership to have them open the door

Once everything is disconnected you can just throw the panels on each seat for now or somewhere else to protect them, just make sure they dont sit in direct sunlight because they totally could melt or deform at that point if its hot outside.

Next, check to make sure that all of the frame clips that hold the door panel on are still installed into the panel. If they got pulled out, use your fingers from inside the door to remove those clips. There are two teeth behind the clip that you have to squeeze together and then it will slide out. Install all clips back into the plastic door panel and then set them aside again.

Now the fun part

I chose dynamat superlite for my base layer so I did that over the sheet metal on the inside of the door, as well as the door frame on both sides. Next, I used dynamat foam (1/8" for doors) and put that all over the inside of the door, and then made a large sheet with cutouts for where the lock and door cables go and covered up all the holes on the inside of the door frame with foam. That way, the door now acts somewhat like an enclosed subwoofer box, only for the woofers instead. This upgrade alone will make your door speakers sound about 6-8 dB louder which would be perceived as approximately twice as loud. Its a HUGE upgrade to the door speakers. Bonus points if you also buy speaker cones for the door speakers and install those at this time, you just remove the 4 screws behind the speaker, make a slit in the cone for the wires, and then wedge the cone behind the speaker but in front of the door frame where it mounts and put the screws through the foam cone and into their original mounting spots.

Next, you can reassemble the doors. First, plug in the lock and latch cables. Then lift the panel back onto the door frame. Easiest way is to lift the panel about an inch above the window sill and drop it in at a 30 degree angle from the window, that way the plastic guide on the door panel goes right in to the pocket between the door and window. Then, gently pull the panel down until it is seated and press all the clips back into the door frame.

Plug the triangle shaped piece back in and install it at the top, and then put both the screws back in, as well as the plastic plate and little foam mat for the change pocket. Repeat for other 3 doors.

I havent personally done my floor and roof yet, because im waiting to tear my whole interior apart one time, but its the same process. You have to remove seats, carpet, center console and storage bin to do the floors. I havent personally ridden in a car that has everything dynamatted, but I would imagine its quite a significant upgrade. Most of the noise from this truck comes up through the frame so theres likely a lot of improvement to be had by insulating the floors better, I would think the roof would only really help when its raining or windy but if you live in seattle maybe you should look into that haha.

 

What did all the dynamat cost you if you don't mind me asking?

 

I bought enough for all 4 doors, roof, and window at the same time. If i remember correctly: one dynaliner for the hood, 15- 2 square foot sheets of dynamat superlite, 2 big sheets of 1/4" foam and one big sheet of 1/8" foam and the 4 speaker cones ran me about $500 bucks with install tools and tape, and plastic trim tools included.

 

It's not hot at all... these breathe really well after they air out properly. They did hold heat for the first week or two but once worn in no issues.