The best 0-W20 oil ?

For those that use Pennzoil, they are running their $2 a quart rebate again this year.

http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promo...motion-7.html#iframe=L0RJWS9OYXRpb25hbDE3Lw==

 

I just got my $12 rebate check today from Mobil 1, they do that promotion a couple times a year.

 

So what is the bast oil for AZ?
Winter temp is 40-60F
Summer temp is 105-115F

 

This may be a dumb question, but if this is ambient temperature, then why would 0W-20 be recommended at all as most of us across the US will see ambient temperatures easily over 10°C (50°F) a much higher percentage of time compared to seeing -30°C. Going from this chart, we all should be in the 5W-40 range most, if not all, of the time.

 

What will you use and why?

 

I agree, but still, if 0W-20 is supposed to be for -30°C to 10°C at start-up, wouldn't that mean that most of us are outside that range and are using an oil that is too thin at startup?

 

The wider the range between cold and warm viscosity, the more friction modifiers are blended in with the basestock. These friction modifiers are most susceptible to breakdown / sheer as heat cycles and mileage pile up.

Generally, it's best to stay away from wide viscosity ranges unless necessitated by frequent exposure to low temperature extremes.

Any full-synthetic on the store shelf will suit your needs. I prefer finding the cheapest name brand, usually M1 0w20 discounted @ Costco or Walmart, and then change at shorter intervals than the 10k recommended in the manual. If you want to extend to a 10k interval, then I'd use a flavor of 30 weight to give more protection against viscosity drop over the life of the oil change.

 

Ok, that makes sense. I still change around 5k (about every 6 months) anyway so I get my tires rotated and all that, so I'm well within any OCI suggestions. Just wondering why the 0W-20 is so favored these days when it appears that it does not seem suited for the "high" ambient temps most of us see.

 

I wouldn't put too much weight on those generic temperature range charts. Good for visualizing how there is a correlation between viscosity and temperature, but not too valuable for picking what specs to use for your application.

Ambient temperature has little impact on engine operating temp, and it's the latter that engineers spec oil viscosity to keep all the metal parts from rubbing on each other. Most standard fleet engines are built with such tight tolerances they don't need the higher viscosities of yester-years.

Here is a better chart. Left two columns show how viscosity is impacted by temperature @ a particular SAE measure. Based on Toyota's spec 20 weight, they are looking for a 5.60-9.29 cST @ 100 deg C:

 

0W-20 is for tree huggers to increase "fuel economy" in other words to pollute less so the tree huggers can ride the bikes to work...
5W-30 is to maintain the engine and pollute more thus to kill the tree huggers on their bikes to work
Do you want to kiss ass of the tree huggers or maintain your engine?

 

Anybody know where the cabin air filter is? I want to change mine.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-quick-reference.406712/page-20#post-15021753

 

This is a better video... you don't have to strain your neck watching it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qpfw-6IOArA


http://www.ebay.com/itm/BG-Frigi-Fr...oz-/280948515565?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

If you have a funky smell while running your fan.. when you have your cabin filter out. Turn the a/c on high then spray 2, 5 second blasts of Frigi Fresh in the squirrel cage under the cabin filter. I then turn the a/c off and turn the fan on high then shoot another 2, 5 second blasts of Frigi Fresh in the squirrel cage. Make sure you point the dash vents down away from your face. This is some awesome stuff! My a/c smelled of pure cow manure and Frigi Fresh killed the mold/mildew so I guarantee it! That ebay link above is the cheapest I could find the Frigi Fresh. The guy ships fast also.

 

what's the reason for the one quart of 5w20?

 

Use whatever is on sale. This also helps with the idea that with each oil change you should use a different oil from your last oil change. Every brand has just a slightly different recipe, so if you change brands each time, it helps remove anything leftover from the previous brand.

 

But is your engine designed to be able to run 5-30?
Yes, 0-20 was designed to increase fuel economy by reducing drag and friction inside the engine, but if he engines oil passages are designed to carry a 20 weight and not a 30 weight then the result of running a 30 weight is going to be the exact opposite of the desired outcome. It would actually be interesting to discuss this subject with a Toyota engineer. Until I have the chance to do that, I will stick to what Toyota recommends.

 

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None. Put it there by mistake. Grabbed all from the shelf and put it on the ground.
That one is for the mower.

 

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Actually engine "feels" better with 5W-30. Took the truck out for a spin for about 108mi round trip and the MPG increased by 1.2mi. Also truck feels a bit tighter and quicker to accelerate. May be my impression but this is the way it feels.
Have compared the M1 0W-20 with M1 5W-30 and both look the same, like water....Not really a big difference. Outside the US where EPA is controlling the car farts, same Tacoma truck oil is indicated 10W-30. Ask around from different countries and will see. Why 0W oil???? I am in AZ and outside temp is 85F in the morning...

 

LOL.
That is quit an impressive graph.
And I am very happy you think your engine "feels" better.
But.
Did you bother to check how many degrees Fahrenheit 10c and 20c is?
Ill save you the trouble.
10c is 50f
20c is 68f
According to your chart, you will need at least 40 weight oil to protect in PHX summer temps.
Still believe your graph?
These are the things why I like to buy new over used. No matter what the accountants say about it being a bad deal, you just never know what a previous owner has done to their vehicle.

 

I am an accountant and I don't buy used for that reason exactly. If they aren't doing something goofy with the maintenance there is a good chance they are neglecting it. Even if they are going to the dealer religiously we have all seen threads on how that can go. Too much risk on a high dollar machine for me.