Solar set-ups for cold stuff.

Ive got a Sno Master EX85 dual door and im building the set-up now. My plan is to run

Heres what I settled on:
Renogy 150 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel
Renogy 40 Amp Commander MPPT Solar Charge Controller w/ MT-50
Renogy Battery Interconnect Cables (Size: 4AWG, Length: 12 IN.)
Renogy MC4 Waterproof In-Line Fuse Holder w/ Fuse (Fuse Amp: 10 Amp)
Renogy Solar Adaptor Kit (Cable Length: 20FT, Cable Size: 10AWG)
Renogy Solar Adaptor Kit (Cable Length: 30FT, Cable Size: 10AWG)
Renogy Solar Tray Cables (Tray Cable Length: 8 FT, Tray Cable Size: 4AWG)
2 US Battery 6V 2200 236ah batteries.

The plan is to have a mount made to mount the panel under the top of my bed rack (below tent) when ten is on. I can either
a. pull out panel and remote deploy on 30ft cable.
b. if tent isn't on, rotate mount around and mount panel where RTT goes. The 150 watt panel is 39x39 so it fits under perfectly.

doing the math of fridge draw, and a 236ah battery bank I should have 4 days of uninterrupted power to the fridge. With 150-200 watt panel in socal theoretically I should have power available indefinitely.

Batteries will be in a box under the truck or in bed against cab (would be nice to keep weight as far forward as possible) along with solar controller. Im not running to the alternator for this to keep install easy and removable since I load dirtbikes often.

Thoughts on the set-up if anyones running anything similar.

 

hi blackohio

did you ever go with the setup you just listed? i have a 17 Taco OR and i'm wanting to do an overland project on it and use to use it to explore. i was looking to see if anyone had any success with solar, dual battery... well... kind of like what you're doing. please let me know...

tia...

 

Get a 7 pin trailer connector and run it to your battery bank using the 12v pos and ground from the trailer plug. That way as you travel you will top up the batteries when in motion and ensure the solar panel keeps on top of things when parked. When you need to remove the battery bank when not in use you simply remove the trailer plug.

This is all assuming you have the tow pkg.

 

that off-grid engineering is expensive especially with the 8100 setup. i wonder if that comes with batteries because it should for that price! - read some more and it does not come with batteries... booo...

 

i agree with you in regards to the extra battery in the bed area. i want the same setup where the two batteries are on opposite sides. then that got me thinking... where am i going to place my under hood/on board air compressor? probably where the existing one battery is now because apparently one can set up a side-by-side battery there.

do you have or will you have an on board air?

 

I did, just waiting for my fab guy to get building me some stuff.

Gonna build a box and mount batteres center cab side of the truck. Im not running dual battery in the traditional sense, Im running it as a stand alone solar powered source. Truck doesnt charge the battery, just solar. These battereis dont have the cranking power for starting, and starting batteries dont have the Ah for running.

 

I never thought about that.

 

I'm running a fairly large fridge/freezer so high ah batteries is a must for me, I have the suspension and leafs to handle the weight and a fab guy to build me cool stuff.

 

why do onboard air? why not a power tank or other portable air, faster to fill a tire than the compressor and cheap.

 

Power tank is a GREAT idea. IMO a better solution if it is only for filling tires. Unless you have air lockers or need air tools often powertank is faster and easier.

I have a question:
The 6v batteries when connected to provide 12v do the ah ratings double or stay the same? I ask because with my setup I went 12v deep cycle golf cart batteries at 150ah each with doubles to 300ah total. Other than that I have to say you have a pretty big dollar setup with all of the right parts. Renogy seems to be well rated and going MPPT is the most efficient way to generate maximum efficiency. I went PWM before I learned the difference but I have little invested in the unit so it will become a shed controller for charging when I upgrade to MPPT.

When I finish my setup I am going with 2 x 100w renogy for my enclosed trailer. I will piggyback the trailer 12v source for charging when traveling (like I suggested in a previous post above) and when the ignition is off the relay cuts power so you don't drain the starting battery in the truck. When I am at the racetrack I need to run a generator for my tire warmers so I can also use the 12v charging circuit to help top up if I ever need it. I have a Sharp 32"LCD @45w for rainy nights. A 24" fan for super hot days and some smaller ones. I may even go AC one day once I finish the insulation. All interior lights are led which draw basically nothing.

 

running the 2 6v to make a 12v source the ah stays the same. it just came down to cost on the 6v over a single or double 12v. The set-up is actually pretty affordable at maybe $900 total in with batteries. With the 232 (thought it was 234) ah batteries I sould be able to run the fridge alone no charging back for 3-3.5 days. While traveling i plan to just run the fridge off the 12v 100watt outlet in the bed.

 

nothing is in my truck yet, waiting for my fab shop to get some open space to take my truck in.

 

parts.

 

I just ordered the same system for the same reason........to power my fridge. I think it is well worth the money.

 

renogy makes a non-folding 200watt 2 panel kit with mppt controller for about $60 cheaper. make or buy 2 legs to angle towards sun and its a better deal as the mppt controller is better at converting light to power.

 

Sorry, meant the Off-Grid Engineering dual battery system. I have a suitcase 3 panel from overland solar, I think it is a 90 watt. I looked at their site the other day and I don't think he makes the 90 anymore.

 

i realized that was what you were probably talking about after posting as well.

 

However........looking at Renogy now, you can never have too much solar.