Fix for Squeaking Clutch

There are some conflicts with their assertions though- they believe the chirping to result from intermittent contact between the collar and fingers, and that there is supposed to be a gap. This hydro-bearing system is adopted from the robust T56 and their claim is that it's more suitable for full time loading. It also requires cutting the quill off of the bellhousing, so it's not reversible (the fork/TOB will no longer have a shaft to float on). This is an extreme solution.

Since the dealer refuses to perform any warranty work on my truck, I'm trying to figure out what my options are. They insist that the clutch and TOB must be replaced, a $2-3K job out of pocket- even though the clutch and bearing perform correctly and the noise goes away when the pedal is in. I've driven about 1000 miles with the chirp.

Since the slave cylinder rebuild is fairly cheap and easy, I'm considering trying it out (even though my 2012 is supposed to have incorporated this fix). If I pull it apart and the springs are exactly the same, at least I'll only be out $15 and a couple hours of time to find out. I'll update when I can get some time to try this, probably after the holiday season.

Thanks for the info hladun.

 

This topic has been amazing. I personally subscribe to Hladun's theory of insufficient pre loading. If we didn't have so many opponents to this theory, we wouldn't have such in-depth discussion about it. Jean Girard says it perfectly -




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuMC3jqWH6c


My question is - if your throwout bearing is beyond saving, would adding sufficient pre load to a new bearing on a worn quill be a quality long term repair? Or, ounce your quill is scarred and worn, will you now need to add the steel sleeve in combination with additional pre-loading?

Thoughts?

 

As a follow up, I ordered an updated spring kit (even though 12 and up should already have this part).

However, I never got to install it. Our pit bull "puppy" reached the counter and chewed up the parts kit.

Some time elapsed and I never ordered another replacement. In that time, my TOB went back to normal. No squeak, chirp, rattle, or thunk. It's been that way for about 5K miles now.

I guess I'll keep an ear on it?

 

Toceans, I fixed mine early so I've not had the severely worn quill. My opinion is that something must guide the TOB so you'd have to do the sleeve or if that fails you need to do the URD new entire assembly. URD does waffle on preload so I'm not sure their fix really knows what the problem is.

 

My truck:
2005 v6 manual 4x4
bought used at 84,xxx
currently 116,xxx

so, I tried a few things.

1st, I rebuilt my slave cylinder with the oem "Upgraded" rebuild kit.
-after install, squeak became much worse. Higher pitch and audible while driving at slow speeds.

2nd, I rebuilt my slave cylinder with the F-150 master cylinder spring.
-squeak was lessened, but still worse than the original squeak from the untouched slave cylinder.

3rd, Installed URD/PDM sleeve kit and kept the F-150 spring in the slave cylinder.
-now its buttery smooth, not a peep, and really confident with the pre-load.


*something to note

I went up to PDM to buy the bearing. When I got there I was put on the phone with the guy who makes the kit.
I asked him if he had any install advise. I told him I had an '05 and he said "buy a new slave cylinder because the old one doesn't have a spring inside." Don't know for sure, but maybe there wasn't even a spring to preload the bearing in the first place? Just like the '05 didn't come from the factory with a cabin filter. If thats the case, seems wierd that a spring would be added, and then latter a stronger spring would be in the "upgraded" kit as baldy77 pointed out - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2005-tacoma-v6-clutch-slave-cylinder-rebuild.387315/

* My Slave Cylinder had a spring, maybe form the previous owner.

Just a thought. Affirms my pre-load beliefs.

Thanks for the advise Hladun.

 

We can just as easily rest our left feet on the clutch pedal to provide constant TOB preload. No F150 parts required.

This thread is going to get some people into trouble. I would give serious consideration to GearCruncher's posts before even considering this.

 

First a silly and then a vague statement meant to frighten the reader. Do you have a point?

Some more useful information. Other posts are showing that Toyota has modified the SC repair kit with a stronger and longer spring assembly. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-issues-v6-6speed.120059/page-9#post-15587250 If you're installing these new parts just make sure there is preload on the clutch. I can't say how they work because I fixed my SC in 2013 and haven't had a problem since. Clutch works fine and no noise except from critics on these forums.

 

I put the URD kit (PDM? bearing, bought in 2014) in mine. New Aisin clutch kit, URD bearing/sleeve kit, kept old slave. It was preloaded slightly, with the bearing spinning with the clutch cover from round one.

It took less than 1000 (EDIT: Checked my records, changed parts at 60010 and observed screaming at 61289, so I stand corrected at 1279) miles for the new bearing to start failing. It screams when rotating. The sound becomes louder when the pedal is pressed and the clutch disengaged. No amount of pressure or preload will fix it.

I had the chirp before, now just a constant scream and a brand new bearing that may blow apart soon.

Since I bought the kit more than a year before I did the install, URD will not warranty it.

According to tech support, the older kits from my era used an aftermarket bearing that was prone to failure. They have since switched to a machined toyota bearing that does better. Thought I would offer as a PSA.

 

That sucks! I installed the URD TOB a couple of months ago and all is well so far. If it starts screaming at me, I will do the hydro bearing conversion.

 

You should drive it often in the first year. If it fails then, they will replace it.

I bought the kit in 2014 and was moving/traveling for work so I did not get to the job until early 2016 and did not get to drive the truck much until recently. It sat in a garage. I guess the bearing decayed while it was sitting indoors. Since more than two years had passed since purchase, they will not warranty the part.

 

MGRS, sorry to hear of your problems. My fix addresses the "noise stops when you press lightly on pedal" problem and it sounds like you have something different... a bad bearing. Warranty aside, the fact that URD knows they sold bad bearings and won't at least replace it doesn't sound much like good customer relations to me.

 

I initially thought I was experiencing another variant of the bearing 'chirp' that I had before, but called URD to describe the issue and they were pretty certain based on the symptoms that the bearing is bad. It is loud, like almost piercing when the clutch is depressed and the inspection cover is off the housing.

Although I can understand the 1 year, warranty, I am a bit frustrated with this. The sleeve fit very tight on the quill, so I don't think I am getting it off and going back to stock.

The last thing I want to do is give URD more of my money after this experience, but I think I am kind of stuck with their 125$ replacement bearings.

 

You can buy the bearing from other distributors if you you're done with URD.
pdmusa.com

 

hey hladun, my 07 xrunner is chirping, was going to try total clutch job but just have to give your fix a shot. first should ask, does the updated toyota sc fix work, i haven't been able to find any feedback. that would be preferred route. if not, what year f150 spring should i use and is it just the spring and only the spring i need to swap?

 

As I've said previously, I don't know if the new Toyota parts work because I've not installed them. Maybe someone else has and can comment here? I used the F150 parts because I had them, there was a collar that nicely adapted the spring to the piston and the F150 spring seemed to give a reasonable preload. There's nothing magical about the F150 except it's the truck I owned before getting the Tacoma so I had the parts. The way to tell if it's OK is whatever you use it should require a good push (3 or 4 pounds) to line up the SC bolt holes when you're replacing the SC.

 

Thanks for responding. I think I will try the toyota pushrod / spring route assuming it's relatively cheap and easy and I won't have to crack the hydraulic line to try it. If it fails I can always go the ford route. Btw, what year was your ford you used the parts from? I will keep you posted on what toyota says, how much $ and if it works. Thanks again.

 

The parts were from a 95 MASTER (the one the pedal operates) brake cylinder.

 

So I talked to toyota, no idea what I'm talking about. They don't see very many standards, totally useless! I remember seeing a post with the updated heavier spring part number but can't find it again for some reason. You wouldn't know what or where it is would you kind sir?

 

From your post it sounds like you disassembled a master you had but wondering if you or anyone else knows if the parts are available stand alone from Ford? I'd hate to have to buy a master just to get a spring. If that's the only way I'll probably just go shopping for springs based on the specs you give.

Rant on. All of this conjecture and speculation is frustrating. The explanation you make is compelling and agrees with other things I've read.

Such as this: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/throwout-bearing-again.17819/#post-232171

I admit to having trouble wrapping my head around forcing the bearing into more preload as a fix but my experience is limited. My last truck was a '91 22R-E/W56 and it had the traditional clutch arrangement. The TOB didn't spin until it hit the pressure plate and if there was a howl you had a positive diagnosis for replacement. I can see the logic to having the TOB in continuous contact, though. A failing throw out could grenade in the traditional configuration when it was asked to go from zero to a couple of thousand RPM instantly.

I'm still tempted to put in the URD sleeve for the peace of mind so that the TOB sliding surface is steel. Don't like being locked into a non-OE part. I'm a person who is a fanboy and sticks with Momma Toyota. I've had extremely good lives from my Toyota trucks by just changing the oil a lot and using OEM parts unless otherwise shown to be a deficiency. For example the steering idler arm on the 85-95 truck was junk from the factory and I had no problem permanently drilling my relay rod to accept the Total Chaos replacement. That was proved by desert racing and mine lasted 185K miles and is still going AFAIK.

 

So I have an FJ Cruiser rather than a Tacoma but it has the same issues with the chirping throw out bearing. I installed the URD Sleeve and throw out bearing and less than a year later and 15k miles and it is chirping again. I am now attempting the heavier spring fix. My question is in the original post of this thread it states to use a mid 90's F150 "CLUTCH" master and in a post just up above mentions a "BRAKE" master cylinder. I ordered a 95 F150 clutch master and the spring is similar but not sure what this collar is that is mentioned. Got any pics of the collar? I can snap the spring onto the Toyota plunger and it looks like that will work but still uncertain.