Wheel bearing replacement

So I'm about to be replacing the passenger side wheel bearing on my 1995 4x4 tacoma with manual locking hubs.

I have the bearing and inner and outer seals on the way. Along with an extra upper ball joint (incase I destroy the current on which is fairly new).

I don't have a press so my plan was to take the knuckle to a shop that has one. I belive there is a lock ring that requires a special tool to remove it and then needs to be tightened to 203 ft pounds, from my research on the job.

I was wondering If any one who had done the job knew the name of the tool, so when I call shops I could see if they have it. I figure worse case I could have it pressed at a Toyota dealer.

Also having the manual locking hubs, I don't need to remove a nut off the cv shaft just a snap ring? Also should I be getting an alignment after this? I am planing to remove the upper ball joint, tie rod end and then unbolt the 4 bolts on the lbj.

Any other tips on this would be great?

 

The tool

$68 OTC 7941 Hub Locknut Socket Wrench for Toyota

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STS0I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The lock nuts should really be discarded

$15 Genuine Toyota 43521-35010 Axle Bearing Lock Nut

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKH692U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Awesome thanks for the reply, I didn't think about getting new lock nuts but that makes sense.

 

And, here's a video I made helping my buddy Jordan do a manual hub swap for his 3rd Gen 4runner. The manual hubs and knuckles came off a 1st Gen Tacoma. We fully serviced the hubs so you'll be able to see how to do it if you have the press and tools. If you do a lot of your own wrenching, the Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press is a really good purchase. Depending on how much the shop you're going to use charges, it might pay for itself on this job alone. Harbor Freight also has a 4th of July sale going on. 25% off any item on the 4th. You could acquire a very useful press and maybe even save yourself some money at the same time. Happy Wrenching!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TZ2sOfVrnhU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Timmah! First off great name, second off I really wish the shop I took my stuff too had watched your video before pressing my bearings!

I got my knuckles back from the shop and had my whole truck re-assembled when I realized that the passenger side front wheel would not spin. After tearing everything back apart, I found the culprit to be that my caliper was contacting the rotor and realized that the taps for mounting the caliper must have been bent when the shop pressed my bearings.

I have since took the steering knuckle back to the shop and they heated and straightened the tabs and I have now come to find, that the hub has play in it leading me to believe the bearing was also pressed in incorrectly or damaged during the process. This is also leading me to wonder if the other side could be bent potentially since it looks like the rotor is not centered 100% between either side of the caliper. At this point I don't want to take it back to the same shop for theme to further screw it up.

Anyways now I am debating how to tackle this debacle. I'm thinking I should get a new or used passenger side steering knuckle and have new bearings and seals pressed into it either by me (have to buy a bunch of stuff and a press) or a shop (a good one this time or maybe the dealer) and then I can compare it to the other side to see if I think that that side was damaged as well.

A few things that I am wondering is what is a good online source for OEM Toyota parts since I need a few things?

Also any one know what the deal is with the needle bearings on the end of the hub (manual lockouts)?
I see off road solutions seems to be the only place that sells them. I think they make noise on my truck but my understanding is they are not carrying any load. And do those need to be pressed on and off the hub?

Finally what year do all 95-04 tacoma 4x4 steering knuckles fit my truck or are their differences?

 

A good online place to get OEM Toyota parts and on here is from @gunny1005 at Camelback Toyota.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/camelback-toyota-discount-for-tw-members.207298/

 

I replaced the drivers side on my 1st gen, I no longer own it, it was a 98 with manual hubs, took the knuckle to work, they have a 50 ton press. Believe it or not it took that press to get the bearing out and get the new back in, spoke with a Toyota Mechanic before I done mine, he told me I would have to use a press around 40 tons, he was correct! Also following his advice I ran the locking collar back down until tight, then gave it a quarter of a turn with an air chisel with a sharp point on, hope that helps! By the way I purchased one of the OTC Hub locknut removal tools and it didn't budge mine!

 

All great info guys! I stopped by Toyota and they will be pressing new bearings into the knuckle once I find a used steering knuckle.
I guess I'm still wondering about the steering knuckle/hub interchangeability. Im thinking the knuckles are interchangeable but the hubs are obviously different manual lock out vs auto.

 

Hey your videos are great! It's awesome to find someone who takes the time to make quality videos like you do. Just wanted to say thanks

Also what was that large snap ring called? I'm in the process of doing this conversion and it's the only part I don't currently have in stock. Just want be prepared if I mess mine up during the tare down

 

Kens04Taco
I could be wrong but I think the part is just called a snap ring. I ordered one at the dealer today for my 95 and the part number was 90521-99114

Heres a link to one on ebay with a help full ish diagram.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Snap-Ring-90521-99114-/361489255476

 

Thanks man that saved me some time. Appreciate it.

Hey here's a question you or maybe someone can answer. Did trucks with manual locking hubs have abs? My 04 trd ext cab has abs I was hoping I could just swap the hubs out and leave the abs ring inside. If I used my knuckle which has the abs ring and hole but put the manual locking hub on it should fine right?

 

Sorry for the late response. I was out on a couple wildland fires and I missed some notifications.

That really sucks the shop screwed it up. Since they botched the job, maybe you can push the issue and make them pay for replacement knuckles and bearings. That would be the way I'd deal with it. You shouldn't have to come out of pocket for their mistakes. If you think it's an uphill battle to get them to pay for their mistakes, your best bet is to search for some used knuckles on Ebay or at your local Pick and Pull.

When I was making this video my buddy Jordan, I asked him about those needle bearings and he said they usually last a long time because there's no real load on them but he had heard they do go bad. I have no experience with replacing those needle bearings but I'll ask Jordan and see if he knows. I'll get back to you with what he says.

 

Hey Timmah!
Thanks again for the video and yeah I'm heading back to the shop manana to take that up with them. In the mean while I'm searching for a new knuckle online. And yeah no worries on a late reply.

 

Jordan just got back to me. He said the needle bearing for the manual hub does need to be pressed out.

 

AFAK, the knuckle is the same for all years and even the 1gen tundra.

 

One thing to note about this.

Trying to use a press sleeve to protect the brass bushing is not a good idea. Mine required so much force the press sleeve warped slightly and slipped down over the threads of the hub and destroyed them. I had to buy the whole spindle assembly from the junkyard to salvage just the hub body.

I bought a small brass plate from the metal store and pressed directly on top of the brass bushing. Worked perfectly! I would not recommend using a press sleeve for that one step.

 

The brass plate is a nice optional technique but it sounds like your press sleeve size might have been a little too big and that's why it was able to slide over the threads. The press sleeve kit I bought on Ebay has many different sizes and I was able to find one that fit almost perfecting onto the hub spindle while clearing the brass bushing for a pretty tight fit. In the video we made, Jordan's spindles also required a shit ton of force and we had no issues. The first spindle came out with the bearing race still attached and it must have taken close to what that 20 Harbor Freight press could handle.

With that said, your brass plate idea is a smart choice especially for those with a limited supply or press sleeve sizes. I think I'll buy myself one too. What size plate did you buy (length, width, thickness)?

 

New to the site and I am also having trouble with play after replacing wheel bearing how do i get the play out everything is brand new new hub from Toyota. Thanks in advance for any help

 

Who did the press work? In the video I posted, I show how you should support the bearing while pressing the hub spindle in. We actually did it incorrectly but were lucky that we didn't do damage to the bearing. Others aren't so lucky and end up damaging the bearing.