Magnuson SC risk?

I have a Scan Gauge2 permanently installed on my dash. It's an OBD2 scanner. It reads MAP and some other boost setting. Would that work? Current spark plugs are 2 weeks old. Dual ground Denso factory plugs. NGK wireset and boots, also 2 weeks old.

 

The Scangauge would work, it's nice having separate gauges but they aren't a must have right away. I assume the spark plugs you recently installed are stock recommended replacements...you want colder ones for a supercharged motor or you'll get spark knock (sounds like predetonation/pinging). IK22 rated plugs are what you want, 2 steps cooler than what's normally used.

 

These are the ones that came with my URD kit...

http://www.lceperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1084044


edit: just noticed that on that site, it says "Magnuson recommends staying with a normal heat range plug if you aren't running the 7th injector". That's interesting, I've never heard that before...I've always heard and read that you should run cooler plugs with the supercharger no matter what. Toyota put regular plugs on my truck when I was only running the supercharger (before I knew better) and it sounded like crap, pinged even worse than it did when it was just running lean.

I would still recommend swapping the plugs if you go supercharged...it won't hurt anything. A lot of guys even recommend doing the fuel pump upgrade even if you aren't doing the 7th. It all depends on how it's running once you get it installed.

 

I have IK20 spark plugs w/o any fuel mods. Stock pulley.

 

Lucky stock are IK16 though so that's still cooler. The first cooler set I ran in mine were IK20 as well until I got the 7th injector kit that came with IK22s

 

I wouldn't.
Never going to have another vehicle that I have to buy Premium for, it's a rip off here.

 

I may be sending you some PM's with questions about the SC over the next few months....

 

The engine and transmission if it's a standard will last forever even with a supercharger,
I'm proof of that and the supercharger gives you instances toque at the rear wheel at 2000 rpms.
Almost 265 for pounds of toque at the rear wheels and almost 240 horse power at the rear wheels.
I say go for it, There is a night and day difference between the two.

 

Finally! I tagged you yesterday! Lol

 

Got my snow performance progressive methanol injection kit in today, now I'm extra happy

 

Run it. Being an auto however, you may have issues with the transmission flaring at shifting or lagging at shifting like a lot of the 2nd gen SC equipped autos have. I had the same issue as many 2nd gens do and remedied it by installing a shift kit myself into the tranny. Night and day difference.

If you do want to run a blower, my strong suggestion is you either get a dedicated AFR gauge and you upgrade your fuel pump at minimum. 7th injector if your truck runs lean ^ 11.5-12.6 AFR at boost. You will have to swap injectors and swap plugs as well when you get the blower so be aware of that. It was a factory standard when the SC kit was first released.

Run 91 octane as it wi be required by the supercharger otherwise you risk ping and knocking at accel.

First thing is first, if you want a blower, get yourself one and install it. Do yourself a favor and get and install the fuel pump while you are at it. The plugs and injectors are installed in unison when doing the install so you will kill multiple birds with one stone.

Keep us updated. We are happy to help, I sure am.

 

Sounds good, I'll do my best When I got my truck a little over a year ago, I knew next to nothing about superchargers other than they required higher octane fuel and they made you go fast, lol. Most of what I've learned I've picked up on here from fellow members, watching youtube videos and learning as I go. Still have a lot to learn myself.

One thing I can say for sure is...boost isn't cheap. To the OP (and anyone else considering a supercharger), if your primary goal is to do as much as you can with as little money as possible, don't do it. Going cheap won't do anything other than give you a ton of headaches and a truck that will run like crap (or not at all). If you're going to do it, do it right. The good thing about these blowers is that once you get it setup right, other than changing the oil once 30k or so there isn't much maintenance-wise that you have to worry about. Until the time comes for a rebuild.

It's a whole 'nother rabbit hole mod-wise....

 

So as far as risks go for a high mileage engine from N/A to supercharger, what all should I be concerned about? Or what PM should I do before putting the charger on?

The truck in question is an 01 5-speed with 477k on the original engine. All I can think of doing is a compression test to make sure all cylinders are good (which I highly expect they are) as to not pop a head gasket. Anything else I should worry about?
I know @1997tacomav6 went 500k on his set up, but he was boosted the whole time.

 

The head gaskets will probably go out around 500k. Mine went out at 480k and after taking the heads off
the issue was that the sediment in the radiator from the cast iron block (rust, metal flakes) had worn down the heads by the
water jackets. This was from not changing the radiator fluid often enough. The sediments acts like
like sandpaper to the soft aluminum heads and wears them from the inside were they connect to the engine body. Something I didn't know till after the heads failed. Don't add a supercharger with an engine with 400-500k miles unless it's been rebuilt or replaced

 

Gotcha, thanks for that. So the only way to check that would be to completely flush the radiator? But I'm sure if sediment was already in there the damage would've already been done by now.

 

Yes damage would have been done maybe years ago if not changed when the book says and most people don't ne do that including me, but now I know better, the metal flakes or sediment comes from the cast iron block

 

Are there any other risks you could think of? The truck runs awesome as is. Had more power than my last truck with 130k. So I definitely think it's still a healthy engine

 

Do a compression test and a leak down test vacuum test and make sure the engine is not leaking oil from the gaskets, At 500k the gaskets all start to give out and leak, the bottom end on the 3.4 is bulletproof, the heads are not

 

Awesome thank you!

 

I recently acquired a 3rd gen 4Runner that needs some work and it happens to have a grey SC on it, needs a rebuild I'm sure but I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild the trans (204K miles on it) and go with a smaller pulley and 7th injector or run everything factory for now.