Harbor Freight tools thread.

I use their (DTA) as a standard against which I validate/calibrate all my torque wrenches. Here's a review I did five years ago when I first got it (damn time flies):



I clamp a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter in my bench vise, mount the DTA on that, set the clicker to whatever value I'll be using and use the DTA's peak hold mode to see where the clicker "clicks". This is also the process I use to calibrate the the clickers over the torque ranges I'll be using.

The DTA is quite accurate and as it is bonded strain gauge based it will be until it breaks. I had it checked sometime last year by a calibration lab in Jacksonville and it was just as accurate as when I did the dead weight tests in January of 2012...

 

I was in the store today and looked at their new Bauer and Hercules branded "20 V"cordless tools¹. The Bauer is the lower cost of the two, uses brush type motors, and from look and feel seems to along the quality of the newer Ryobi stuff--but with no significant price advantage.

The Hercules line has brushless motors and is 50% to 60% more than the Bauer stuff, making them cost wise more or less inline with street prices for DeWalt's brushless tools. They seem to be pretty good quality; the display models of both lines all had charged batteries in them

The Bauer and Hercules "20 V" batteries are not physically interchangeable; though I cannot think of any technical or electrical reason why they could not be. I think this was a mistake on HF's part. With DeWalt's tools the batteries are compatible from the bottom to top of their "20 V" lineup, they even make an adapter allowing the old "stem-top" battery tools to use the new flat style. Ryobi's batteries are interchangeable from the old blue pre-lithium ion tools through their latest stuff.

Currently they seem to only offer a drill/driver, hammer drill/driver and 1/4" impact driver in each line. Certainly they will expand this to reciprocating and circular saws and the like.

But my "jury" in still out on HF's cordless tools and the last thing I need is yet another brand of batteries to contend with so I'm going to pull a "wait and see" on these...

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¹ - They are not really 20 V batteries any more than are DeWalt's or anyone else's. The call them that because a freshly charged lithium-ion cell will deliver a maximum of 4.0 V for a brief time until it falls to its nominal 3.6 V. These batteries all use 5 cells in series or 5 packs of cells in parallel in the higher amperage packs; 5 cells * 4 V = 20 V, 5 cells * 3.6 V = 18 V. But 20 V sounds better than 18 V so that's where the marketing departments took things.

 

Just a thought, I do not know about most people but I use heat shrink over every damn crimp, if done correctly this keeps it watertight, would I stand by this on a wire that runs along the bottom of a boat on the outside of the hull, no I would not.

 

If you wanted to get really serious about your wires, solder and heat shrink them. However soldering under a hood or bumper or even under a dash is a PITA and not really worth it for me unless the connection is easy to get to. For tight spaces a crimp connector and heat shrink tube seems to work well enough. Let's face it, this thread is all about good enough. LOL!

 

I was not talking the method of connecting the wires, but rather using dielectric grease when there is heat shrink for this purpose, yes there are times when the grease is needed, I used it on the screw clamps (not sure what the actual name is) on my trucks trailer lighting connector I had to replace. But for most connections, solder or crimp, heat shrink is the way to go. That is my opinion, if you disagree that is fine.

 

This is a good read, DielectricGrease-vs-ConductiveGrease.pdf, a bit long but a good read nonetheless...

 

That was a good read. Thanks!

 

Picked up and . The stapler/nailer didn't come with the quick connect to connect my air hose.. and the compressor leaks from a coupler coming from the compressor- tried fixing but to no avail. It's a shame they close at 6pm EST on Sunday or else I'd be on the way back there now

 

Just had this pop up on my YouTube feed

https://youtu.be/ENghMwZYMoM

 

Does anyone have the HF ? Any input? It's on Supercoupon this month for $60 and I was thinking about grabbing one. Im tired of coiling my air hose up every day (it seems.)

 

I have had one in my garage for at least 5 years. No complaints.

 

Sold!

 

Yep I've had three for over 6 years in the shop only one of them needs replacing and it's retracting slow but that one gets used the most so I've got my moneys worth.

 

I've had one in my garage since 1998 and it's been pressurized 100 percent of the time.

I just recently noticed some small cracks, or checking. Replacing the reel is defiantly on the horizon.

 

Thanks guys!

Where's your favorite mounting point of choice. Ceiling or wall?

 

I have both and i prefer the Ceiling myself right above the welding tables.

 

I also have mine mounted on the ceiling.

 

So I have had the 110lb pressurized sand blaster and have put a good 500lbs of media through it. So i thought i would post my thoughts on it.

First off, if you want to use this you NEED a large compressor. I have a Quincy QT-5 60gal and it was cycling quite a bit. Trying to use this with anything small and you are going to be waiting and not enjoying this. That said though with the Quincy I never had to stop unless I was running out of media.

Second is media size. I initially used Black Beauty "Fine" media (from tractor supply) and it worked great. However i tried the "medium" media and it failed miserably. Clogged after 5 seconds or less. The main issue is the nozzle tip size. You just need a bigger tip which is a problem cause the largest HF offers is a "3.5" which isnt big enough for the medium grit media (IMO). For reference i used the 3.5 with the fine media. I can definitely see where a lot of people who have bought this and gone straight to medium grit media and clogged and blamed it on being HF junk.

Third...a few mods make this so much nicer. The deadman isnt bad...but sucks if you plan to blast a full pot of media. I added a normal valved and took the deadman portion off and it is so much nicer. Also if you want to blast with the medium grit...get a nozzle that takes the longer "normal" tips. I picked up one that takes 3.5" long tips and offers a lot more options for nozzle sizes. Just remember large size tips means more air.

Fourth (which isn't really anything other than an FYI) you only fill it 3/4 full or so. And you wont really be able to run it empty. Once it hits ~1/3 full it starts sputtering and not working quite as well on delivering the media. I didn't mind this as it meant it was a good time to stop, refill it, blow things off, ect.

Overall Im happy with this. It will save money down the road so even upgrading things is cheaper than taking it somewhere. Just have to know its limitations.

Pros
-Cheap
-Simple to use

Cons (out of the box)
-Limited on media size (fixable with a different gun)
-Tips for the included deadman wear out pretty quick (250-400 pounds is all youll get out of them)
-The "hood" they provide is pathetic. Get yourself a different hood or different method of protection

 

Got the the HF Retractable 50 foot hose reel. Installed on garage ceiling. Seems well built and sturdy.