Just bought a project bass boat...

My first powered boat...16 foot 1990 Lowe bass boat with 1990 Yamaha 50hp jet drive outboard. Boat is in generally good condition but I need to sort out some wiring issues. No biggy...I do that kind of stuff at work all day. Motor runs but the main impeller no turnee. Hopefully it's a shear pin or something like that.

I found a repair manual for the motor...I've been looking everywhere for an owners manual for the boat but none to be found so far. I have an email into Lowe but three days so far and not a word.

Here in NH, one needs a boaters permit...online course and then take a proctored test...lots to learn. Lots different than running a whitewater canoe like I've been doing for the past 45 years...I'm getting too old for that sort of thing.

 

Very nice. I've been working on my first boat restore/project for the past month or so. It's just a simple little 16' fishing or utility boat (1981 Starcraft Seafarer). When I got it, the hull was in great shape but the trailer was covered in old crappy paint and surface rust, the rollers were completely shot. It had been sitting for almost 30 years. I bought an HVLP spray gun, wire wheeled the trailer, put new hubs on it, primered and shot the trailer with rustoleum black.

I removed the shitty old roller system, welded bunk brackets to the frame and made trailer bunks from 2x6's. I used 5 coats of spar urethane (varnish) on the trailer bunks and made a new transom for the boat at the same time. I carpeted the bunks with some indoor/outdoor carpet from a big box store.

Boat exterior has been completely stripped of paint. I used an orange Nyalox 2.5" brush on drill to "wire wheel" the paint and oxidization off of the hull. The interior still has some chalky but fairly adherent paint sitting on top of a green film which I assume is Manufacturer applied Zinc Chromate Primer... which you can no longer purchase due to toxicity, etc. Prepping aluminum for paint requires special care and the right components. I think I'll shoot the interior with automotive Direct To Metal (DTM) Epoxy Primer, then hit it with a flat (light gray) single stage urethane. I looked into acrylic enamels as they're cheaper but believe the Urethane will hold up better to weather and UV rays. I plan to leave the exterior bottom half of the hull (below chine) bare aluminum. For the "top half" of hull exterior I will hit with the same primer as above but then use a Red single stage urethane. The gunwale I plan to leave bare aluminum and may polish it up.

Once it's painted I'll frame out the bottom for some low profile flooring, just to make the Deep V more stable and practical for moving around. I do not plan to remove any benches as I believe this would compromise structural integrity of the boat. The front of the boat I may frame out and install a casting deck. I plan to use Aluminum Angle for the framing with rivets into the ribs. A lot of guys use wood because its cheaper, readily available and easy to work with but I have access to some great materials as my buddy's family owns a big salvage yard in Phoenix. Also aluminum is lighter and will last much longer than wood.

 

Some pics to show you what I'm working with

 

Very nice job! I just ordered a complete shaft assembly...goes from the motor down to the main impeller. I was going to buy the shaft alone but when I figured out the cost of the shaft, bearings, seals and other miscellaneous needed parts it was a wash so may as well buy it all together and just pop it in.

I also need to buy parts for the water pump...the pump impeller, the housing and the woodruff key were all destroyed when the original shaft broke. It seems it broke at the groove that the woodruff key fit in, most likely the weakest part of the shaft. Fortunately, the pump parts are relatively inexpensive. I'm hoping to have this boat in the water inside of three weeks, just in time for vacation.

 

Just out of curiousity, what did you pay for it. I have a simalar one I'm going to be selling soon and have no idea what they go for

 

Whole different ballgame on your side of the country.

 

Painted mine today

Used an automotive Epoxy primer and single stage urethane for topcoat. Should hold up tough as nails for my uses in fresh water lakes.

 

@smitty99 that trailer overhaul looks mint!

I have a '72 mako 17' and 90hp OMC that was a "free" boat but has been costing me ever since. Biggest thing i have dealt with is dont F around with the fuel mix. If it has an "auto mixer" cut it out and measure it yourself at each fill up. Be vary careful of additives that you might put into the gas, some dont work with 2 stroke engines and will mess shit up. get a good inline fuel filter water separator and drain off a gallon or so from the tank after the winter to make sure the gas still looks good. i get my motor parts through boats.net it seems to be reasonable prices and they have all the parts diagrams online. i have done a ton of repairs to my motor since i have owned it so if you run into anything post it up.

 

That turned out really nice! I need to find another boat to redo again. That the famous Smitty in the background?

 

Thank you for the tips!

 

Nah that's my firefighter buddy Big Will...he came by to assist in hose (air) handling duties

 

I find its a lot easier to keep the shit out of the carbs than to keep rebuilding them all the time to get the gunk out. I had to tear my whole fuel system out and clean/rebuild the entire thing because of all the crap in the old one.

 

When does the rebuild start?

 

Do you recommend 2 stroke over a 4 stroke? My only concern with 4 stroke is cost and effort of maintenance but the mixing gas thing sounds like a huge asspain.

 

I've never owned a modern 4 stroke engine and never had an issue. I try to use ethanol free fuel in any small engines though.

 

If i was starting with a blank slate i would go with a 4 stroke... but i often have my boat up on the lake for some slow putting and twisted teas. the 2 stroke is loud as shit, smokey, the oily gas makes a mess, but when its just me and i wanna go for a rip i sure do love it!!!!

I think that the effort of changing the oil every spring in a 4 stroke is way easier than dealing with mix all the time. also my shop told me to run 89 octane and only buy name brand 2 stroke oil (no supertech) but since its always on the trailer i just stop at whatever gas station i'm passing by instead of buying marine gas somewhere on the water.

if you want power and zip get the 2. but if i was doing it again i would spring for the 4. bass pro by me in beautiful Bridgeport has some sweet deals from time to time.

 

I bought the whole thing for $800. The guy that had it before me thought he was looking at a total motor rebuild which he didn't want to get into. I figured the trailer and boat alone was worth twice that so I went for it. As it turns out, only the down shaft was broken, just above the water pump assembly. The water pump assembly was messed up too with the broken shaft flailing about in there too but the cost of the pump assembly is chump change comparatively speaking) . When its back in the water, I'll be into the repairs for about $600 (shaft assembly $380, water pump assembly $80, deep cycle battery $100). I have some electrical stuff to look at but that cost is minuscule. The only other thing I need to get is a deep cycle battery for the trolling motor.

 

It has started ! See above post...

 

Sorry OP. I totally hijacked your thread.

 

Awesome job! Hopefully I will be painting mine next year. I just want to get this thing in the water now. Painting can wait.