Tacoma 4.0L hard to start when warm

I try to quote, but sometimes my fingers start working in the reply box before my brain catches up.

I think I'm gonna go ahead and order that pump from summit. I believe I have to drop the tank since I have a dcsb. It would be nice if I could raise the bed to do it though.

 

How many miles on your truck?

At 50K my fuel pump failed entirely without warning at a stop light. Much like you and the OP I was showing similar signs of long starts when hot. It's your pump much like OP. Lol.

 

I think boogie has around 30k. Me and him are having almost identical symptoms.

 

You definitely could. I actually did my pump at home and managed to raise the bed just enough with the bottle jack that is in the truck. Lol. To support the other side I just used something thick and strong which required me to manually lift that side while slipping whatever I could under it. A thick wood block would probably work. It allowed me just enough space to remove the pump without having to drop the tank. Watch the tank seal O ring at the end of it all and if you have it apply petroleum jelly or silicone paste. It will allow the ring to hold in place and not shrink just enough to distort final install while you get the plastic ring back on.

 

Fuel pump. Lol. I hate to sound like a broke record about it. Apparently these trucks OE pumps are just shit.

 

Do you know of the other little parts which are necessary to swap a pump in? If not, I highly suggest the URD kit. It will make your life more stress free.

 

That's awesome to hear. I saw some people post that on the dcsb the pump assembly was under the cab. I've been wanting to add some rubber under the bed mounts anyway so this will give me a reason to do that.

 

All I used was the pump itself. Cut the old OE plug at the pump and soldered in the new plug, applied the strainer/ sock and the provided tiny metal locking clip to hold it in place and just proceeded to reverse install. Oh of course the hose and the worm drive clamp connection at the top of the bucket and at the pump itself. It was relatively easy and all the parts needed minus the strainer and the little clip was supplied with the AEM pump.

Well see I have a DCLB so the Ned was not only heavier but everything was shifted back further. Yours may be a different story and you may want to insect prior to taking my word about it's location as gospel.

Why do you want to put rubber under the bed mounts? The place where you place the rubber or urethane o rings to prevent bed wear and shifting is at the top of the bed where the bolts tighten, not the bottom. At least as far as I know. I've been wrong before. Lol.

 

Only point to bring up about that, is that the filter is still in the tank, and still not an easily or cheaply serviceable unit.

 

That is true. A factor I have considered, but like anything it is a required item otherwise the pump itself would be sucking up junk without any filtration which would severely shorten it's overall service life.

The flip side to this coin is that it may be possible to run an external inline fuel pump, but that would require all sorts of splicing of the fuel lines, adapters, and electrical modifications to make possible. If this was not my daily it would had been something I would had done on mine. At the time though I needed it back quickly so I was willing to compromise for a kick ass pump.

 

30K

 

This one for a V6? Looks like there are 6 fuel pumps to chose from. Which would be best for a regular V6 with no plans on forced induction or other power upgrades? http://urdusa.com/store/Fuel-Upgrad....html?osCsid=4531ccc8ee49c0cb7334c16ea2cc7a3a

 

I was having long start issues at 24K all the way until 50K when the pump just wait out of the blue. You both are well in the range for impending failure and the signs are telltale at this point.

As far as pumps go pick Aeromotive or AEM. You will not have a problem for a very long time. Both are high quality units and high flow or not based on the mods of the motor will not matter. The pumps pressure is regulated by voltage demand, injector size and the fuel pressure regulator. After that, the install will be the only pain in the ass left but a pain well worth the rewards.

 

You are mistaking the fuel pump sock, for the fuel filter.

Fuel sock protects the pump and stops large debris. Pre pump.

Fuel filter protects the injectors. Post pump.

 

I'm looking at putting rubber because one of the mounts had worn down, and there was about 1/2" gap. I already took that bolt out and put a section of horse stall may to raise it back up and then put the bolt back. I want to add a small amount of rubber to each to prevent wear

 

Walbro 255LPH.

 

In all my years of working on vehicles without a post pump filter have I ever seen an injector be clogged due to debris. I have seen a good amount of injector failures whether mechanical pintle being stuck or failure entirely where it just doesn't work at all, even internal leakage, but I digress.

Personally I'm not worried about a post pump filter, but for those wanting to heir on the side of caution, by all means, do it if it helps ease your mind more.

Just get polyurethane body mounts and you're all done. No more rubber to deal with.

 

You got a link to the poly body mounts. All I could find on Google were bushings, but those won't work.

 

Sure do man. I either discovered them or made them mainstream for our trucks some time ago.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/polyurethane-radiator-support-mounts-cab-also.361346/

Enjoy.

 

Fuel filter protects against uneven injector spray patterns, to worst case scenario, a clogged injector.

Industry standard that is is proven to be necessary. That isn't a matter of opinion, just plain fact. Just like you needing an oil filter, or air filter.

The filter aren't there to make the engine work. Just to make the engine run as long as possible, at the closest percentage to 100%.