Totmacher's maybe not right but it works Build

Being a genius is helpful too!

Can't thank you enough for the OME fronts man! However, the shocks are going away for 5100s, will keep the springs.

 

No problem. I've heard those coils supposedly ride nicer on 5100s. enjoy.

 

find me one!

 

Find yourself one you lazy bum!

 

port or dealer installed option on a lot of early 2000s vehicles meaning it's generic aftermarket part. Look for Gentex brand since you can usually find wire color info online but sometimes they print on PCB what the pin is for. Then it's just a matter of running wires. And make sure you get the temp sensor for mirror, not temp sensor that computer uses. They're calibrated differently.

(my garage is most likely not 127 degrees F.)

 

after scrapping saturday's plan because it was too hot to work on the truck, I went out today to change U-joints. Still way too hot for working outside but I wanted to take care of it. Moving joints by hand it didn't really feel like they were bad. I don't know. Something has been feeling like slack in the driveline and 1 ujoint has been taking a few pumps more grease than the others. So I changed out just that one and went back in to the air conditioning. Good enough. I'll find out monday if it made any difference.

 

How much play is in your carrier bearing? Even just a little bit makes a huge difference in driveline feel

 

Not much play at the middle bearing. I remember putting a new one on my last truck and this one feels less sloppy than that new one had (that was prerunner though so maybe different to start with).
The splines on the slip section had a small amount of play but it didn't seem like enough that I should feel it while driving. Also, it didn't look unusual when I pulled it apart (no galling, scrapes, chips, etc).

There were some marks on the faces of the flanges at both ends where the DS connects that make me think maybe the bolts weren't tight enough. My crowsfoot splayed and came off the bolts once I got over 50 ftlb so I don't know what torque they're at now.
I levered a pair of combo wrenches on 'em for the old german Gutten-tite method.

While I was laying under there looking around, noticed my leaf springs appear to be flatting out. Maybe they're wrapping and what I feel is the overload leaf hitting. I thought of a number of possibilities if tightening up the drive shaft doesn't make any difference. Thinking I might just try to ignore it until either the weather cools off or something grenades.

 

Unbalanced driveshaft, bad carrier bearing, bad u joints, bad driveshaft angle and axle wrap are the driveline issues I'd look at. If you're worried about the leaf pack, check your driveshaft/pinion angle and fix it of it needs to be fixed, buy new u bolts, loosen up the shackle mounts, and reset/retorque everything at ride height. U bolts stretch, could just be that.

 

Seems like i have to re-torque my u-bolts every 3-4 months. I feel more wrap, re-torque them, and it smoothes out for the next 3 months.

 

ubolts sortof new so maybe. Got ubolt flip in Feb and retorqued a couple times since already.

Next time I'm out there and willing to sweat my balls off for it, I'll loosen a few turns then retorque.

 

Won't be today. Heat index 110 again.

 

lol. Yeah, not today.
I'm still hot from yesterday.

 

free mudflap mod compatible with trimmed fenders is done.

Found semi truck flap in road. Cut it in half, some shaping, and bolted on.

Short enough that I shouldn't rip them off in a ditch but big enough to reduce the amount of mud getting caked up in the bumper. I hope.

 

DYF AF!!

 

So...bolted to the bumper, not the location of factory flaps?


subbed

 

almost factory spot i guess.

bolted to an existing bracket, a rib under bed, and one of my tabs i made before while cutting fenders.

 

all these years, the secret origins...




... of my screen name.

(which use to be my gamer handle back when I played online games)

https://youtu.be/s1RZUGCP13o