Old Man Emu setups on 1st gens

Good luck, hope it works for you. I would wait, but I have an appointment Monday to have the new tires mounted & balanced, then an appointment at the dealer for the LBJ recall replacement and alignment on Wednesday, so I need to do the install this weekend. Don't wanna rush a decision on a bumper, so I might get a heavier skid plate to at least add some weight for now.

 

Cool, let us know how it goes!

 

I am sure this question has been answered but I am looking to upgrade and need help. Last year I cheaped out my 02' prerunner with the rancho quick lift. The kit came w pre assemble front shocks and coils. I also received rear shocks and I purchased regular not HD general leafs for the rear and a add a leaf. My mechanic buddy installed it all and of course the rear sagged about 1 1/2". He said the shocks were totally maxed out. The new leafs are completely flat and its sagging even worse now and my mechanic says it might just be the shocks being maxed out.I called general and they were super nice and offered the HD (I haul a trailer a couple times a week but nothing to heavy) for a discount. The general HD adds about 2" lift they say. Or is adding longer OME rear shocks going to free the leafs up ?
My question is with HD leafs and longer shocks do you think I'll need an AAL also to level out to the front which is 3" lift if not be a little higher in the rear ? Also I do a lot of highway and need new tires to go w added lift. I currently have 265/65/17 and they look so small. Any thoughts on next size up without spacers? I like tall but narrow tires .

 

does anybody have pictures of their truck with a toytec coil installed on a OME shock? or a OME coil installed on a 5100 shock?

 

Did the drive shaft slip out while installing the leafs? Mine did, put it back together quickly, buttoned it all up, and a LOT of vibration from the shaft to rear end. Figured out that it was out of balance due to misalignment of the two ends of the shafts. I looked at the u-joints to be sure they were "N-Sync" ( matching alignment). Put it all back together. Rides good again.

 

I did use AllPro axle relocation plates to shift the axle back. It definitely helps and does not rub (32x11.50 R15)

 

I went with Light Racing UCA's. I think it was definitely worth it to get all the adjustments needed. It's a little pain to get them changed but was worth it.

 

I used the Dakars only. It still sits up high in the back some, even with a camper shell. The AAL would be a little too much.

Once again, the vibration could be from misaligned drive shaft if it came apart during install of the leafs. It may also be how high your rear sits with the AAL.

I also saw where you have a driver lean. I used the OME shim spacer for the front driver strut to help with that.

The overall suspension has settled about 1/2" or so since install. It won't settle much, at least for a long time.

 

Full OME kit was delivered today, can't wait to install this weekend! Will post pics here when finished...

Looking at my Dakars, one is labeled CS046RA and one is labeled CS046RB. There is also a "+" sign on one and a "0" on the other. From everything I've gathered on the forums, "A" is for driver side and "B" is for passenger. The pack with "+" sign indicates slightly above spec and therefore should be installed on the heavier drivers side to combat lean, a "0" indicates on spec, and should be installed on the passenger side. The following link supports this: http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_OME_leaf_tech.html

However, my "A" pack is marked with a "0", while my "B" pack is marked with a "+", which I think is the opposite of what it should be. Which pack should I put on which side, and does it even matter on our 1st gens?

 

I believe + is for drivers side to compensate for lean

 

A is drivers side, B is passenger side. + just means it's slightly over spec, O means it's at spec. You still want to install the A on the drivers side and your B on your passenger side.

 

Thanks, I think you're right, letters take precedent over symbols. To test, I placed a straight piece of wood across the length of each spring pack, then measured the distance from floor to wood at the center pin. The "A" pack was about 3/8" inch higher. I'm assuming that will translate to slightly more lift.

 

YES!!

 

Installed my Dakars yesterday. A couple questions... What is limiting everyones down travel? With these leaves and my lift shackles, with no shocks installed, I am getting so much droop that my extended brake line was tight and the drive shaft looked like it would pull out. Now with shocks on I am definitely in the clear, but that means at full droop the axle is being held by the shock. The leaves should droop fully before the shocks run out of travel right?

Full setup is Daystar 1.25" lift shackles, All prop axle relocation plates, Dakars, and 9" travel 5125's.

Some pics:

 

My OME shocks limit my down travel. Same boat as you, there is a lot of usable droop left unused.

 

Yes, shock length would control droop. Otherwise, in flex, the stuffing of the tire on the other side would maybe limit. Some people have used straps if the shock has longer travel.

 

I just feel like there is a ton of weight being held by the shock I guess. I mean my tires alone are 75 lbs a piece plus the weight of the springs/axles.

 

It will definitely kill the shocks. I ruined one OME and one Rancho, both on the driver side.

Your only solution is to do a shock relocate.

 

Definitely will happen, just not before Moab unfortunately. As long as I don't kill them before/during then I'll be happy. Also I am assuming now that I moved the axle back I would need different bump stop heights for each side to take advantage of full shock travel, depending on how far back the axle was adjusted?

 

Even if you do blow it, you won't notice a ride difference until you take it off.
@Squeaky Penguin and I are using Wheelers Superbumps and an added spacer to make contact. My spacer was about 1 1/2"