1" inch rear block.....

85,000 miles on my truck. First 39,000 stock, then next 44,000 on 1" blocks. ZERO complaints. Then I did 2" AAL. Better ride than the stock leaves only......But much of that I credit to better SHOCKS done at the same time. Then I put the 1" blocks on with the 2" AAL. No change in ride quality. ZERO complaints OTHER THAN now it sat too high (in comparison to front) The blocks are now on the work bench.

BUT......I wouldn't hesitate for one second to use the blocks again.....Just wouldn't go beyond 1".

 

Could someone tell me which is better?

http://supremesuspensions.com/product/1995-2015-toyota-tacoma-tundra-rear-lift-leveling-blocks-kit/

https://www.readylift.com/toyota-1-inch-rear-block-kit.html

 

If I were to add 1" block to rear do i have to do knew shocks? I have 1" front level kit on stock suspension.

 

Can you post a pic?

 

Not the best pic but I'll get another later today. This is without much weight in the back.

 

I got an alignment when I did that one inch spacers in the front. If I do one inch block in the back is there any need for another?

 

This is a better pic with no payload.

 

if you don't do a lot of off-roading then I would say not to get an alignment if you install the 1 inch rear blocks.

 

Anyone had issues with the rear vibrating after installing a block? Or what I've heard of as axle wrap? I won't be doing any trail or off-roading. Closest I come to off-roading is gravel and dirt driveways.

 

Have you seen the pics I posted? Would this AAL be a bette solution than the block or shims?

 

You won't need an alignment if you add the 1 inch block, or the rear AAL either. Only when you make changes on the front. For what you're doing with you truck, axle wrap shouldn't be a concern. Axle wrap can happen when you have soft springs, or a higher leverage point, like tall blocks. When you try to climb and obstacle the spring can get a wave of torque through it, and as this wave travels along the spring, axle wrap can/will result. It presents as a bit of tire hop. You'll see or feel, depending on how much axle wrap is occurring, the rear tire turning, and getting traction, and then it will unload the torque through the spring and the wheel might come off the ground slightly, spin freely, depending of course on how much torque is present, and then push back to the ground and repeat the process until the torque is decreased or you've cleared the obstacle. Lesser axle wrap most likely will go unnoticed, while more severe wrap will be felt, and seen. Severe axle wrap, on vehicles running huge aggressive tires, especially with low air pressure (more traction) can result in broken axle shafts etc. It happens when the tire comes off the ground, spins aggressively and then violently slams back down and suddenly regains traction. That's why it's unfavorable among wheelers. In your case, you'll likely never experience anything even close to that scenario. Even if you got a little crazy one day, the worst you might get is some very mild wrap that you wouldn't even notice. That's just my opinion from 30+ years of wheeling, so take it for what it's worth to you. You can run the blocks for now, since they're a inexpensive solution, and if you like the lift you gained from it, upgrade to an aftermarket spring pack of the same lift later on down the road. By then you may want more lift, or not.

 

Thanks for that detailed description. The only other thing I was concerned about the blocks was the vibration. What's that all about?

 

TxFireman - the main thing that I don't want to happen too is to be driving down the road and the backend be bouncing up and down. What's the best option?

 

I will also say that the backend feels a little soft and bouncy as it is

 

Tacoma springs are not the best in that regard. They made them to be a comfortable ride, and as a result with intended truck use a lot of people experience early spring wear. Blocks won't change that, AAL will add some stiffness but many report that often the springs eventually sag back down over time. How much time? Results may vary. But it's roughly the 2nd cheapest option. Probably the best option is to find an aftermarket spring pack that has the amount of lift you want and go that route. You'll likely firm up the ride a little and the springs "should" last long term. You can add the AAL until then if it's a better option for you now, or just pay once, cry once. Look around the forums and the web and see what you think will work the best for your needs and budget.

 

Sounds like for what I want the block will achieve it. I will only have this truck for another couple years.

 

What's weird to me as when I first put the one inch spacer ring in the front, the back was still a quarter inch higher. Over the course of a few months it seems like the back has possibly settled a little bit more but I did not do anything to the back.

 

Your springs are probably just weak from use. Everyones results are different based on truck use. My 2013 springs are the same as they were when i bought it. I don't haul heavy loads, I usually just use my fullsize due to the additional bed space if I'm hauling heavy stuff. As for the rear, there is about a 2 inch difference. An average leveling kit for the front is around 2", which will put the truck at level with healthy rear springs. Again, worn springs may be a tad lower in that case. With your 1" front spacer you still have room. When you add the rear block it may be level or if your springs are worn enough it may appear slightly lower. You won't truly know until you're there. Sounds like you might still be level from the sound of it.

Probably so, but again, it won't solve your "soft and bouncy" rear springs. It will just net you an inch taller, which is fine if you can live with that. Most likely your springs have relaxed as much as they're going to. The belief is that blocks can cause some stress on springs and result in some wear, but again results vary. If that does happen, you can always sell your blocks and go AAL if you still have the truck and need more lift. But you'll probably be fine. You will need longer U bolts for the block, and I would advise longer shocks as well of course to keep travel correct. Otherwise your rear shocks will have less down travel now that they're stretched out another inch. For the AAl a leaf you'll probably be ok with stock u bolts if you have enough thread on your current ones, but you'll still need new shocks. SO, there are pluses and minuses to both. But AAL will likely take out some of the softness back there, and perhaps last until you sell it. It's a bit of a crap shoot either way sometimes.

 

Will I have to put new shocks with AAL? I want to do the least amount of work to get the back up about 1 inch. If I do go with a 1" block only, I will need new shocks??

 

Yes, normally either one should require longer shocks. The only thing you might save on AAL is you *may* be able to keep your stock U bolts if there is enough thread left over after the added leaf is in place. If you got AAL they should come with a new center pin for the leafs. A longer one is needed for the new thickness of the leaf pack.

Now, if you rears have settled down a bit from stock and lost some of their factory arch, you might get away with the stock shocks.. but that's iffy at best. If your rear is still taller than the front after the 1 inch spacer, the you are probably close to the factory height and having too short of a shock could cause you to damage the shocks if they reach their limit. Your best bet it is to contact one of the vendors here and let them talk you through what they can do for you, for your needs. Headstrong, all pro .. many to choose from.