2006 Manual 4x4 with the famous Throw Out Bearing Squeel!!!

Had 3rd gear syncro replaced a few years back, while we were in there we did a new TO bearing and clutch. Well, immediatly the bearing started squeeling (very common). What I am wondering now is what experiences has anyone had with the URD HydroFix? I am going to put the truck on the market for sale and the clutch is slipping and so while I replace that is there any other fix for the squeel??? The truck is soon for sale so while I dont want to screw the next guy I certainly dont want to spend money I dont have to ($500 for URD HydroFix). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

URD website states that a URD Clutch needs to be used with the Hydrofix... True or false? I could put a quality clutch in for much less than the URD Stage 2 @$450... Will it work?

 

According to URD only their clutch kits will work after the hydro mod. I'd probably trust that. If your selling it and want to fix it before you sell than you could always just do the 200 dollar-ish sleeve and oversize TOB kit. Some people have had success with. If you can do the work yourself it wouldn't be too bad. Otherwise I'd just sell it as is and explain to the buyer whats up.

Another option is to go with the $13 slave rebuild kit with longer stronger spring. I did this and my chirping stopped at idle but now happens only under acceleration from 2-2.5k rpm and its less noticeable.

 

I've tried out a Tacoma with the HydroFix because like you, I've got a 2006 on it's second clutch and TO and am pretty squeaky.
My experience with the URD stage III on a supercharged truck (shouldn't matter) was that the clutch had absolutely no squeaking, fast take up, and a lowish clutch pedal.
Great for rocket starts, not so great for offroad feel or towing.

The great and ongoing argument has been did Toyota design the TO to touch the pressure plate all the time, or is it not moving away from the pressure plate enough.
I still don't have an answer to that. Support at AISIN said that it is not supposed to contact, the bearing isn't designed for 100% duty. URD seems to agree with this in the description of both of their fixes.
URD's Hydro solution upgrades the bearing and sets it for full contact all the time, much like the slave cylinder spring mod, or resting your foot on the clutch at an intersection. (my current technique).

The difference between URD's two fixes is that one will sleeve the trany, but if the transmission housing is too far gone, it can break requiring a replacement housing, or to use the Hydro fix. The guy's Tacoma I drove initially had the first URD fix. He then broke the transmission housing so had to opt for the Hydro fix next. Lots of money dumped into that truck.

It's hard to say which fix to go with. Given you are selling the truck you could remove the transmission, inspect the housing and if it isn't scored that bad hit it with some emery paper to get it all smooth again. I did this to mine when I replaced the clutch and the TO was silent for about a year. If combined with the spring upgrade you may have something pretty reliable for a 11 year old truck and feel good about selling it for little money. If the damage is severe then the "low buck" fix would be the HydroFix TO.

URD can't say what other manufacture clutches are going to do when bolted down to your flywheel and what kind of clearances you will have. It doesn't mean it won't work, it just means they don't have a clue if it will or not. I have a stage II clutch from URD but it isn't installed on my truck yet. I was going to save up for the HydroFix first, which is why I wanted to drive one. I can take measurements of the clutch for you, but as you may know, they may not be much good to you with out it torqued down to a flywheel.

Hope this gives you something to use and isn't just a lot of noise.

 

Hey so let me get this straight, the guy installed the sleeve kit and his quill broke off after the fact? I didn't realize the TOB was causing that much damage!

 

That's correct. His quill was already cracked, but he bought the sleeve kit and clutch and figured he'd go for it. Lasted 5k miles.
To be fair to the truck, he had a URD Stage II supercharger 4x4 and drives pretty damn hard. He didn't look back, when the quill broke he called Gadget with what was going on and Gadget said, "good news, we have a new solution for that". He upgraded clutches (I bought his clutch with 5k on it) and upgraded to a Stage III setup. He still drives his truck like he's angry.

 

From URDUSA.com

Another problem that we have seen time and time again is the stock quill snapping off the base of the bell housing. In the past to fix this it required that a new bell housing be installed at great expense. URD went to work to solve this problem and developed the FIX-U Hydro-Bearing Conversion kit. We make a T-56 transmission swap kit and in those kits, we use a GM style hydraulic release bearing where the slave cylinder and release bearing are all one part. It also has a very strong spring that keeps the bearing pressed into the pressure plate all the time and both spin together as one unit. This kit has saved many customers so far from a much more expensive repair. This FIX-U kit also works for trucks that have not snapped off the stock quill. It seems to also resolve the squeaky bearing complaints for good. So now there is another option for addressing the problem.

 

There is also a Toyota TSB that changes out the fork, pivot ball and TO. I think it changes the angle of the fork and re positions the TO when it is not engaged. You have to exhibit the problem and I think there was an expiration date, but the parts are available.

 

Really? Damn I've never even heard of this one. You got any scoop on the part number for that kit?

 

There are other threads that are dedicated to this.
You can start looking here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-squeak-creak-noise-recall-expands-–-tsb.251223/

 

There are atleast two TSB's on the clutch. The first addresses the TO bearing and pivot point. The other is a squeak from the actual pedal assembly.

Clutch Pedal

Clutch TO Bearing components with part numbers

@azzwethinkweiz

 

FWIW, I did the slave rebuild and the squeaking stopped for about 30 minutes. Returned and hasn't dissipated. It doesn't bother too much and the clutch works just fine so i'm sticking it out. Since you're selling I'd just replace the bearing at the same time and call it quits. It'll eventually return anyway so don't waste a lot of time or money on something that wont be your problem in the long run.

 

I have the new URD release bearing and clutch setup. One other variable with this bearing is you mount another collar in the pressure plate fingers. So it's possible with different pressure plates that this collar might not fit properly. One side note at least in my particular situation is I feel some light pulsation in the clutch pedal now when depressing. I never felt any when using all stock components.

 

I also have the URD clutch, TOB, sleeve kit. I'm going to do the slave cylinder "rebuild"/"upgrade". still researching so not sure which yet. as Jason J said i wouldn't recommend trying another brand with the URD kit.

 

I purchased the URD sleeve and tob kit the other night, I'm curious if anyone has came across any good write ups for the 6 speed removal? Found stuff for fjs and older tacoma but none for the 2nd gen 6 speed.

 

I'll find the one I used when I get home.

 

This is what I used.

 

Thank you. I'm sure the squeeling will come right back but at least it will hopefully prevent further damage from being done to the quil until I decide to go balls out and get the hydro kit.

 

So that's basically what my reason was for doing it. it stopped for a while and then came back and isn't AS bad now. I'm picking up the slave cylinder rebuild probably tmrw which you'll see in the process of taking out the trans wouldn't be too hard to do. Ill post the results after doing it.

 

The slave cylinder rebuild kit might make quite a difference for you being 06 since it has a heavier spring and larger pushrod. I just did the slave rebuild last weekend and mine already had the heavy spring (13) but the larger rod was something new. It made my chirping go away at idle but appears under power now... being that yours is an 06 it might really help you (assuming it has all the older parts). Good luck