Errr... My rotor is frozen. Welcome to New England (our weather)

Thanks for tip. I was thinking so, perhaps there were holes like that. Looking at rotor, I didn't see them. I'll re-check, but I think there weren't any holes in this rotor.

 

crap...

 

Most "imports" usually do have the screw holes. Maybe previous owner found a set that didnt. Or maybe they are full of rust...

 

That's amazing...and not in a good way!!

 

A quick look on Rock Auto shows none of the aftermarket rotors, even the premium drilled/slotted ones, have the 8mm push-out holes. Your picture shows no holes on this rotor. In any case, when the rotor is rusted this badly, the 8mm threads in the holes will typically strip when you put bolts in them.



Make sure the replacement rotors you get have a black E-coat in the hub area:



Since you are replacing the calipers anyway, now would be a good time to do the Tundra brake upgrade.

 

This came up on Youtube. Just use the caliper mounting holes

Funny enough, I think they only started putting the 8mm push-out holes on 2nd gens. All the 1st gen rotors on Rock Auto lack them. This is across 7-8 different brands:http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2004,tacoma,3.4l+v6,1429084,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

 

Success!

And that means you too can do it.
These were so rottenly rusted in there.
I found 2 great things: my torch and my sledge.
Driver side I heated up the rotor a lot, and then whacked it with a regular hammer - a very severe beating if I do say so myself.
Passenger side I went straight for Mr. Sledge. And, well, rotated the rotor around and smacked that b*itch up (Prodigy reference) at about 5 points around the circle and the last one popped it right off!

Thanks all for the help and suggestions! I love a nice active forum like this one
.

 

And that is a really cool tip about back threading bolts into the caliper mounts. Why didn't I think of that?

 

I own a brake repair and suspension shop and I'm way up in the U.P. of MI and almost all rotors are rusted to the hubs. What works best for me is to use an air chisel with a blunt tip and hammer around the hat of the rotor with it and 99% of the time it just pops loose. Fyi pounding on the rotor with a big hammer is hard on your wheel bearings. Glad you got it off though.

 

there are no holes on the rotors, they are meant to "pull off" once the caliper is removed.

the rear drums on the other hand do have the bolt hole to remove them.

some import cars have the rotors that are screwed on mostly due to smaller "hat" section

 

Holy rotors batman

 

Yeah my old Integra had the holes in the rotors. But it was terrible. They had these little shallow sh*t bolts that 'held' the rotors onto the hubs, that would of course be seized and the phillips head pattern would disintegrate in mush. Then you're stuck with rotors on. One time I just said "F it" I'll install new pads right over the beat up worn down rotors.
Next time for those front brakes I simply drilled into what was left of the bolts and took care of bidness that way.

I heard later that the rotors had those little crap bolts in them for ease of assembly of the brakes and such at the factory.

 

WOW- no simple cut and re-pad job.
-
Glad you got it back home- that could have been disasterous.
Autozone in my area will rent the puller for free.

 

Definitely got money worth out of those brakes

 

Must be a 1st gen thing. I did a caliper/rotor swap 2 weeks ago and both the old and new rotors had holes. Sorry man

Ahhhhh yes. Well that would make sense

 

Yeah, not a new pad job for sure!
These brakes were worked over pretty good. Actually the passenger side rotor wasn't that bad and there was tons of pad left - nowhere near the wear markers on either pad.
But the driver side caliper outside pistons clearly froze up and the inside pistons just kept pushing - until the pad was gone, then took out the rotor, and pushed the piston seals right out. Very very happy my cousin didn't crash the truck and get hurt or total the truck. He almost hit the house he pulled into when he couldn't stop.

 

Hey guys, do I install copper crush washers on this when I re-hook up the brake lines?
I didn't happen to see any on the setup when I pried out the brake lines.
Either they don't use them, they were missing, or they were so ground into the caliper I didn't even see them.
Thoughts?

 

Yes always put new crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting. They are the only thing preventing leaks at this joint.

According to EricTheCarGuy, aftermarket crush washers are more likely to leak than OEM crush washers. Never had an opportunity to verify this, since 2nd gen Tacos don't use banjo fittings...

 

Hmmm.... well the brakes are all back in!
I did wind up getting 4 crush washers that came in one of the sets of parts (could be calipers / pads I dunno).
The passenger side did weep out a few drops of fluid when bleeding the system. I had it in there pretty good and tight. I tightened it a little more and will keep an eye on it.
I took it for a test drive - nice to have braking again!
Thanks all!

 

Glad you got it all reassembled and bled.